458 replies to this topic

[jeffblanco]

Hi Guy's,

I started posting my progress with the car, but put it in the "engine" section, soI thought I'd have another go.

 

I picked up the car in December 2016 but work has been slow because parts I ordered from the states

in January 2017 arrived in November.

Since then I have been trying to install everything before striping it and sending it off to the painters.

 

Details are = LS3 crate motor with 580HP

                  =Tremec 5 speed

                  = front clip from southern chassis works in Melbourne

                  = 9" from Rodtech in Adelaide

                  = 90L drop tank from Brown Davis

                  = 17" x 8" and 17" x 10" Hotwires

                  = car was orange from the factory so I'll keep it that colour

                  = I want the interior and interior to look like an old school A9X [except for the rims]

                     but all the running gear to be up to date

 

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Regards

 

 

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Edited by jeffblanco, 09 March 2019 - 06:55 PM.

[jeffblanco]

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[jeffblanco]

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[Bigfella237]

 ~ I started posting my progress with the car, but put it in the "engine" section, soI thought I'd have another go. ~

 

And this one is in the HB-LC-TA-LJ section... You're getting closer!

 

Helluva nice shopping list you got going there, but one thing I noticed is the O2 sensor bungs, I though they had to be before the cats?

 

I know some vehicles have four O2's, two before and two after the cats, but I thought the two after were just there for emissions crap, like monitoring the effectiveness of the catalytic converters?

[jeffblanco]

Your right, I stuffed up again.

I'm not going to have another go.

 

Thanks, you could be right about the sensors. I'll check with tuner and engineer before I go to far.

 

Regards.

Edited by jeffblanco, 09 March 2019 - 09:54 PM.

[Rockoz]

Very nice indeed.

Will be watching closely for your progress reports.

[Kantong]

Hell yeah, I’m gonna enjoy watching this one mate

[Bigfella237]

Your right, I stuffed up again.

I'm not going to have another go.

 

Looks like one of the admins has been kind enough to move it for you so it's all good now... on with the important stuff!

[axistr]

Liking your build. Not trying to be picky but that power steering rack is sitting out front of the k-frame by a considerable amount. Being forward so much will cause issues with the toe on turns. 

[Bigfella237]

Yeah it looks like that in the photo above Lenny but their K-Member is a totally different shape to the OEM one, the rack looks to be in the right place but the part that it mounts to is set further back...

 

[rexy]

Good looking project!

[neglectedtorana]

Is that air con a vintage air gen 2 mini?

I have one but mounted mine backwards, I know it moves the feet air ducts a long way forward but it gets the fan away from the park brake, be interested to hear how yours works out. Mine isn't finished yet

Also do you have a standard rear sway bar mounted to those tubular arms?

[axistr]

Yeah it looks like that in the photo above Lenny but their K-Member is a totally different shape to the OEM one, the rack looks to be in the right place but the part that it mounts to is set further back...

Yep looks much better from that angle. Tie rod bars look online with the rack. What dimensions are the inner tie rod spacing.
 

[Bigfella237]

 ~ What dimensions are the inner tie rod spacing.

 

No idea, they don't give any details whatsoever on the components they use...

 

http://www.curleys.c...-holden-torana/

[jeffblanco]

Yes, it's a vintage air mini. I thought I followed the instructions, I didn't think there was any other way to install it. You've got me thinking now!

 

I'm using the A9X sway bar, if there really is such a thing. I'm in the middle of making some sort of bracket to connect the bar to the tubular arms.

I should have ordered the sway bar that sits further back on the car with the arms pointing forward,

but I thought I'd get into trouble with the gearbox, the front clip or the exhaust.

Turns out it would have been easier and I would have been able to run the brake ducts from the front spoiler which I really wanted to have.

 

I don't know to much about cars, so if you really need an answer to "what dimensions are the inner tie rod spacing", you'll need to ask the question through a diagram.

The thing I like about cars is bolting them together and solving problems.

 

Regards.

[jeffblanco]

I just realised you were asking about the rear sway bar, not the front.

I have the standard sway bar in the rear, which connects to the underside of the body via a couple of square looking brackets which were on the car when I bought it.

 

Regards.

[Ice]

Wow great build cant wait till end result you got some good go gear on that rig

[neglectedtorana]

Thanks Jeff or Mando,

I only put mine in backwards as I didn't want the fan too close to my feet and had to turn it round to get the vents in the middle

It does make it a little difficult to get the vent hoses on.

I have seen it others installed the conventional way you have done, I haven't tested mine yet so don't know what the result will be

Cheers, Tom

[jeffblanco]

Andrew, I checked and you are right, sensors need to go before the cats.

I thought it would be a no brainer for the exhaust guy !

 

Regards Mando.

Edited by jeffblanco, 13 March 2019 - 11:25 AM.

[Bigfella237]

Yeah, I can see how they got confused, I just don't really know what you're gonna do about it?

 

General rule of thumb is that O² sensors need to be at least 6~8 inches (150~200mm) after the collector (otherwise they can be spoofed by gasses from only one of the primaries instead of reading the whole bank), but they must be before the cats or at least 18 inches (450mm) before the end of an open header pipe, preferably in a straight section of pipe, and angled downward so moisture can't accumulate in the sensor.

 

If only installing one sensor in a twin system it should be in the leanest bank, so you would need to do some testing by swapping the sensor from one bank to the other to determine which is leaner. Meaning you need a bung in both sides anyway.

 

Also, sensors need to run in a certain heat range, too close to a turbo or even just the collector in a methanol engine and they overheat, too far away and they will be inaccurate, although you can buy Heat Bung Extenders which will dissipate some heat, provided you have the space to accommodate the additional length...

 

 

One last comment, an absolute no-no is allowing any air into the exhaust system before the sensor, so any cracks in pipes or pinholes in welds or 'slip-on' collectors will cause ultra-lean readings if not sealed.

 

[jeffblanco]

This is getting worse by the day.

I think I was happier when I was oblivious to the problem.

I've never heard of a Heat Bung Extender. Maybe it will help with my situation. Any idea who carries them? 

When I spoke with the tuner, I just asked him quickly where it should go, but I can see I need to go into much more detail.

 

 

Regards Mando.

[neglectedtorana]

I bought some threaded fittings from di fillipo exhaust in Melbourne and welded them in then fitted standard Commodore O2 sensors

At least the tuner can tell you which sensors are compatible with the ECM your using

[Bigfella237]

De Fillipo are gone now, the main guy retired and closed down the business altogether apparently, or so I read on another forum.

[LXCHEV]

Great project - I love the direction you're heading with this thing! Looks magic so far. Keep the progress photos coming!