One thing to watch with the extractors, fuel injection does not go well with slip on collectors, I had major issues with overly rich readings because of very slight air leaks with the slip on collectors. Fixed the problem by welding them on.
LX Hatch Complete Restoration
#26
Posted 04 April 2019 - 08:14 AM
#27
Posted 04 April 2019 - 02:04 PM
Nice', the crossmember came from Dellows in Sydney. It wasn't that much dearer than the normal steel one.
myss 427, someone else pointed this out to me in an earlier post. Checked with my tuner and sure enough I'm screwed.
I've solved the problem of the O2 sensors being in the wrong place but I'm still working on the slip on collector problem.
As I said earlier, you would think someone who only builds extractors and exhaust would have known this like the back of his hand.
Regards Mando.
Edited by jeffblanco, 04 April 2019 - 02:05 PM.
#28
Posted 04 April 2019 - 02:39 PM
Just get him to weld them on no biggy, by the looks of them, he's no too bad at welding.
#29
Posted 14 April 2019 - 10:49 PM
Plenty of gear here.
#30
Posted 22 April 2019 - 05:55 PM
Finished the brake lines. The only one left is the one that goes across the diff.
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Regards Mando.
#31
Posted 22 April 2019 - 06:18 PM
Finished the brackets for the sway bar links.
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Got the condenser in and all the hard lines made.
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Regards Mando
Edited by jeffblanco, 22 April 2019 - 06:20 PM.
#32
Posted 04 May 2019 - 11:21 AM
#33
Posted 05 May 2019 - 08:02 AM
I'm not sure if this answers your question, but the first thing I did was buy the rims 10x17's and 8x17's and asked for as much dish as possible to look like the hot-wires you would see back in the day without going crazy.
Then I sat them under the car where I thought they should sit, and measured from rim to rim.
Rodtech in Adelaide did the rest with the diff.
Regards Mando.
#34
Posted 05 May 2019 - 10:30 AM
Hi Mando,
I see you are getting ahead with brake lines etc. under the car.
are you going to fit any chassis strengthening? I am not an expert but believe it adds a lot to the cars rigidity which is needed when you add HP. might be worth considering, I used a CRS chassis kit and had to make my brake lines fit around it.
there are other ways to do it by joining the box section chassis tubes under the car, depends how much fabrication you want to do. Rod Tech would probably be able to help with advice
Love the car your building and great fast progress
Cheers, Tom
#35
Posted 05 May 2019 - 08:45 PM
Tom, Tom, Tom, I was afraid someone here was going to ask THAT question.
I have been avoiding looking at the problem hoping it would go away and I would have to do anything.
I will do a little homework tomorrow to see what can be done without going for the full chassis kit.
Do you have any pictures of what was done to your car?
Regards Mando.
#36
Posted 05 May 2019 - 09:09 PM
Sorry to be the one to ask,
Might also be worth asking your certifying engineer if he wants something fitted.
I used the kit below, it does have cut outs for brake and fuel lines, I did have to modify mine a bit for front wheel clearance.
https://www.rodshop....hassis-kit.html
Hopefully the link below is my modification for the front wheel clearance
http://www.gmh-toran...read/?p=1026086
And this one is for the cable
http://www.gmh-toran...read/?p=1001198
#37
Posted 06 May 2019 - 12:16 PM
Your pictures help a lot.
Does the Rod Shop kit affect any part of the stabilising arms that come of the K-Frame?
I noticed a switch on your air/con receiver. When I bought mine I got a Trinary switch supplied, but I've seen Binary switches as when.
Do you know the difference?
Regards Mando.
#38
Posted 06 May 2019 - 10:05 PM
That bit is sometimes referred to as the outriggers
My air con switch is binary. It is open circuit when pressure in the system is either too low or too high.
I think trinary is pretty much the same with an option for it to also activate a fan for the condenser
My fans run from the ECM so I don't need the trinary
#39
Posted 06 May 2019 - 10:20 PM
Thanks for that.
Regards Mando.
#40
Posted 12 June 2019 - 10:06 PM
Hi Guy's,
can anyone let me know what the threaded bolt through the firewall and
the hole above it with black paint around it is for?
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Regards Mando.
Edited by jeffblanco, 12 June 2019 - 10:11 PM.
#41
Posted 12 June 2019 - 10:16 PM
#42
Posted 12 June 2019 - 10:59 PM
Thanks Brad,
would anyone be able to post a picture of what this setup looks like?
Regards Mando.
#43
Posted 12 June 2019 - 11:13 PM
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Got some parts back from the painter so I started putting things together.
I think I'm jumping the gun since they haven't even started stripping the paint from the body yet.
Regards Mando.
#44
Posted 12 June 2019 - 11:33 PM
Attached Files
#46
Posted 13 June 2019 - 12:33 AM
#47
Posted 13 June 2019 - 02:12 AM
would anyone be able to post a picture of what this setup looks like?
Only V8 manuals had the hole bored for the cable (between the stud and the threaded hole) during "drilling operations" very early on the production line.
6 cylinders manuals had the rat trap coming through the steering column fixing plate; and of course autos had no holes at all.
#48
Posted 13 June 2019 - 02:58 PM
Thanks for all your'e help guy's.
Brad, the Manuel will help me a lot since I bought my car completely in pieces. Just what I need.
Andrew, from what your'e telling me my car started life as an auto.
Gene, the fans come from Entropy Radiators in Illinois and the radiator from DeWitts Radiators in Michigan.
I made the shroud to fit the fans to the radiator.
Regards Mando.
#49
Posted 13 June 2019 - 07:00 PM
Andrew, from what your'e telling me my car started life as an auto.
Or it wasn't a V8? Or someone's replaced that panel? (although that seems unlikely)
Do you have the Compliance, VIN and Build Plates off that shell?
#50
Posted 13 June 2019 - 10:16 PM
Andrew,
the panel looks original even though someone has welded up the heater holes, but I think your'e right the car started life as a six.
Iv'e got the plates put away, so I'll see if I can post a picture.
Regards mando.
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