29 replies to this topic

[lj72bathurst]

I’m in the process of getting a lc gtr thst needs full resto.
Want to see opinions paint 2k or acrylic.
I’m thinking 2k as the Acrylic paints are not
What they use to be.

Jason

[sibhs]

Hi Jason,

 

Answer these questions first then we can give our opinion.

 

Who's painting it?

 

Where is it getting painted?  (booth or shed)

 

What standard of finish are you after?  (concourse, show, daily driver)

 

Cheers

Marty

[lj72bathurst]

Hi Marty I will paint the car in the shed.

The car will be a daily driver.

Cheers Jason

[grumpy xu1]

2 pack mate completely. You can make it look similar to acrylic if you know what you are doing. Considering NO ONE would finish acrylic with the cutters ect from the 70's to the 90's, why bother, if you painted 1 to "factory finish" the owner wouldn't pay for it. To me personally, the biggest problem done now, is the wrong sheen level & colours. If you can get that right, who cares if it's in 2 pack. I had a friend at a big torana show & no one but 1 painter picked out his car was in 2 pack, they were all rubishing 2 pack jobs & we just said nothing. At a minimum use 2 pack epoxy etch primer & 2 pack hi build primer, you can use acrylic over it, but the 2 pack is definitely the best choice.

[grumpy xu1]

If it was mine, I'd use the sikkens ep epoxy etch primer, sikkens colorbuild plus high build & either the sikkens top coat (solid or metalic) or lesonal (their cheaper) top coats only.

Or glasurit (baslac) ppg or similar.

[Ice]

If it was mine, I'd use the sikkens ep epoxy etch primer, sikkens colorbuild plus high build & either the sikkens top coat (solid or metalic) or lesonal (their cheaper) top coats only.
Or glasurit (baslac) ppg or similar.

Listen to this bloke ✌️

[sibhs]

I've done one Acrylic but if I do another I'll try 2K. Especially if a daily driver, much stronger paint system.

 

Marty

[lj72bathurst]

I think I will go with 2k. The modern Acrylics even if you get oil on the paint it marks.

Thanks everyone

Jason

[Indy Orange]

Isn't acrylic easier to touch up than 2k ?

[Ice]

Isn't acrylic easier to touch up than 2k ?

Depends who is doing the touching up

I've done one Acrylic but if I do another I'll try 2K. Especially if a daily driver, much stronger paint system.
 
Marty

What do you mean if ??

[Com_VC]

I've used acrylic once, i'd never use it again.

[grumpy xu1]

Isn't acrylic easier to touch up than 2k ?

You can do a smaller blend out with it, in my opinion, that is the only thing going for it at all.

[DMLC71]

Pick what u want it’s all in the clear coat, that’s where I’ll spend my money

[grumpy xu1]

It's a bit more than just clear coats, so i'll give a run again.

The good quality epoxy etch primer, basically chemically treats the steel & stops the rust properties. I wouldn't count on it being water proof. Trust me the single pack stuff DOESN'T, even though the promotional crap with it says it does. No preparation is the absolute key here, remove all the paint & use a seaweed disc, cup wheels 180 free cut sand paper ect. Then wax & grease remover thoroughly (easiest to do 1 panel properly at a time) mix the epoxy as per instructions. It's epoxy, then hardener, stir than add thinners & re stir. Let's say that the tin says 100 : 50 : 10, that means 100 ml of epoxy, 50 ml of hardener & 10% of their mixed volume. Ie 150 ÷ 10% = 15 ml so the total mix would be 165 ml, put your first coat on just wet, your definitely not looking for coverage on the first coat. I have always done 3 coats. Get yourself a good iscocyanate mask, usually $175, roughly, use it for mixing & cleaning aswell.

Do any filler repairs needed over the top of the epoxy etch, not on bare steel. & re coat them in epoxy etch primer, to seal them off, repairs should be smooth enough "before" applying the high build, that you don't have to re high build the car again. A big paint thickness can cause dramas too.

With the top coats, i strongly believe in only clearing metalic colours & not in or over solids. Personally i prefer the look of a paint edge on the black outs & don't like flow coats, i just think it looks totally wrong for the era. Match all the paint shades & sheens, if they're still original, BEFORE you remove the paint. Best of luck with it mate, Gary.

Now preparation is the key, that should read sorry.

[rodomo]

With the top coats, i strongly believe in only clearing metalic colours & not in or over solids.

I agree and would it be fair to say that clear coats over solids came about when the colour match wasn't perfect to start with?

[grumpy xu1]

I think that you are referring to a solid car, has a accident & they rub it done & blend out the solid colour, that they've mixed in a base coat, they spray the blend, then they clear the whole panel, to disguise the blend. Is that what you are asking mate ? That's 1 scenario. The 2nd was a trend, when it was thought a good idea to add some clear in the final solid coat, to give the appearance of depth, i have heard of quite a few of these, since failing. If you look at the solidity of a solid colour, only having 10% thinners, you can already see it's uv stability, however must dearer brand metalics, are 50% thinners in the base coat "colour" so they get there uv stability from the clear. If you're going to block it smooth, or knock the top of the peel, 4 coats of top coat, would be best. Most good quality spray guns produce a much smaller peel patern aswell. Iwata, devilbiss, sagolla ect. I still prefer a solvent based system & you need a solvent fluid tip ect. Gary.

[jd lj]

That's great advice that you're sharing Gary, thanks.

[grumpy xu1]

No problem, saves some questions later mate.

[Ice]

Any recommendations on a good paint stripper Gary but i want something with a bit of oommff that would strip off 30 year old 2pac paint

[grumpy xu1]

Cam strip should be okay mate. Send me a pm.

[rodomo]

I think that you are referring to a solid car, has a accident & they rub it done & blend out the solid colour, that they've mixed in a base coat, they spray the blend, then they clear the whole panel, to disguise the blend. Is that what you are asking mate ?

Yes

[lj72bathurst]

All good info

Cheers Jason

[jd lj]

So whilst we're at it, how about the differences in the quality of body filler/ bog (not that any of our cars have any :-) ).

Is it worthwhile using a good quality product compared to what's available at an auto parts store. Which brands should we be using?

JD

[grumpy xu1]

Yes mate, I've got some rage gold to try, so many things on the go atm though. The main thing is it doesn't sink back or pinhole. So yes, i would recommend getting a quality product.

Wurth also supply a 2 pack filler, final finishing bog basically. Not cheap, but a great product.

[bullitA9X]

I’ve painted both I’m no professional but did my hatch in acrylic come up killa all comes down to who is doing it I think most people that see my hatch swear it’s 2k