#26 _Daryl34_
Posted 01 July 2019 - 09:53 PM
#27
Posted 02 July 2019 - 06:00 AM
Just to wade in late on the brake discussion, the above comments are true but its all academic if the caliper simply won't clear the tie rod end, at least at the rear you have the ability to make room for them. When you get into even larger diameter rotors you tend to have more chance mounting them to the front.
The Hoppers 290mm kit doesn't have too many problems with clearance at the rear and I've not needed to touch the upper control arms. The one thing to watch out for is the position of the hose, you don't want it pinched between the caliper and cross member at full lock, from what I can see yours looks OK. I did end up relocating the hoses to the rear but that was partly aesthetic. Also remember if you're hitting full bump or droop at full lock you have much bigger problems!
As for the stud pattern, perhaps just try on a wheel and do up a single nut. It will be easier to spot any small differences and tell whether the opposing holes are completely centred or not.
#28 _cool72_
Posted 23 July 2019 - 04:19 PM
Hi guys and girls, sorry for the hijack of the thread, but is related,
When I pulled of my steering rack for a rebuild, the tie rod ball joint on the right hand side came off ok, but the left fouled on the caliper.
Car is UC, has HQ-HJ stud pattern, HQ-HJ cast iron Girlock calipers, UC steering arms, but the stub axles, I don't know.
The numbers are hard to read, but look like, Holden 8795 on both stub axles
Any suggestions what these would be off ???. They do have adapter plates.
Thanks
Glen
#29
Posted 23 July 2019 - 10:42 PM
G'day Glen,
7448795 is the part number for the drum brake stub axles from 4-wheel drum LH / early LX Torana. These are the same part for left & right because they don't have the offset flanges to mount standard calipers (hence the adapter plates).
Hopefully you also have UC Torana upper control arms each side as well, otherwise you probably shouldn't be using the UC steering arms as they will be the wrong height and likely induce bump-steer?
As for the calipers being mounted unevenly side-to-side, well that's gotta be down to the adapter plates (and doesn't really inspire confidence in whoever made them)!
#30 _cool72_
Posted 24 July 2019 - 05:48 PM
Hi Andrew, thank you, can you please explain how do i indentify UC control arms.
Thanks
Glen
#31
Posted 24 July 2019 - 08:50 PM
As earlier in this thread, LH & LX (excl A9X) UCAs are symmetrical (and are therefore interchangeable left & right).
UC Torana UCAs have the balljoint set rearward to add positive caster, so they have "L" or "R" stamped into them on the top where the bump stop mounts and are not interchangeable.
If you can post a picture of one of them it should be easy to see the difference.
#32
Posted 24 July 2019 - 09:15 PM
#33 _cool72_
Posted 26 July 2019 - 05:25 PM
Thanks guy's, right hand UCA has R on it
Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: LH, LX, UC, A9X
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