984 replies to this topic

[sibhs]

Great work Marty-very motivating. 

Cheers Stuart

 

Evening All,

The inner rear lower guard is very sad. Thought I'd have a go at making another.

 

Firstly the circle indents, I was going to make some die's from wood but thought I'd hunt around the shed for an easier option.

I found an Aussie box bearing which was a little too small, then found a land cruiser outer bearing cone which increased the diameter. Now for the female part.  

 

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Grabbed an old fly wheel and turned it over to find a perfect female match, lets give it a go.

 

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Marked out the centres and placed it all in the press and out comes a pretty good copy.

 

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Next into the bender and it's starting to take shape.

 

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If this works out I'll look forward to having a crack at the rear inner beaver.

 

Marty

Edited by sibhs, 28 May 2020 - 09:13 PM.

[Ice]

Now i see why you call your self ONLY a Handyman ✌️

[rodomo]

You can do it!

 

Right now I'm feeling your pain with the front lower guard repairs. I've spent 3 nights out there at my pace (beer, smoke do a bit, watch a bit of NCIS, smoke beer) to get the repair piece to line up to the door and sill before I try and attach it to the guard.

 

Having said that, the Rare's piece is a good start rather than making the whole thing from start.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Attached Files

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[sibhs]

You can do it!

 

Right now I'm feeling your pain with the front lower guard repairs. I've spent 3 nights out there at my pace (beer, smoke do a bit, watch a bit of NCIS, smoke beer) to get the repair piece to line up to the door and sill before I try and attach it to the guard.

 

Having said that, the Rare's piece is a good start rather than making the whole thing from start.

Hi Rob, I can't bare to look at the lower guard ATM. I'm hoping I can get a good second hand one.  I think I've screwed the Rares one by folding over the edges and trying to sharpen the swage lines.

 

Marty

 

Marty

[claysummers]

Genius


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[RallyRed]

Just caught up on this thread...amazing work. Very impressive and you have some serious patience!.

 

Regarding the shifter overhaul,  did you identify the key bits that take it back to "NOS" slop levels..i.e nice and tight?  Ta

[sibhs]

Genius


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It's a fine line between genius and crazy. Not sure what side I'm on?

 

Hi Marty send me your number and I will send you some pics of what I have laying around collecting dust and rust,,, I know I have a really good inner rear beaver here, bottoms of original guards, and a heap of other cuts.

 

Cheers gong

I always appreciate your help John and looking forward to receiving the package. Marty

 

Just caught up on this thread...amazing work. Very impressive and you have some serious patience!.

 

Regarding the shifter overhaul,  did you identify the key bits that take it back to "NOS" slop levels..i.e nice and tight?  Ta

Thanks Col. This shifter seemed very tight and had little to no wear in the usual spots so hoping it'll just work.

 

Marty

 

 

Heres a few bits and pieces I've done this week.

 

Ran a chain through the rails to make sure there's no more crap in there.

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Then threaded the chain through a scourer for extra cleaning. This didn't end well with the scourer coming off  30 cm in on the first pull. Managed to free it with a flexible grabber and forget trying that again.

 

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Bought a proper steel hole saw.

 

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Finally got the stuck bolts out of the lower wish bone and found the holes have elongated. Two pics are of a good one and bad one. I think I'll get another one rather than trying to fix.

 

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Also got the zinced bracket onto my new cable. This was tricky.

 

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And the bracket onto fuse box. Easy

 

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Things will slow down because I'm going away for a few weeks.

 

Cheers

 

Marty

[46Crab]

Good job Marty. Your bloody keen and dedicated mate, I reckon that car had more rust than metal in it.

Edited by 46Crab, 31 May 2020 - 10:00 PM.

[sibhs]

Good job Marty. Your bloody keen and dedicated mate, I reckon that car had more rust than metal in it.

Thanks Crab,  

It has had a lot of rust but not as bad as some i've seen. I'm on the down hill run and there is now more metal than rust.

 

Marty

[sibhs]

Got a little rust in the rear of wheel guard. Firstly had to clean the guard so I can see what's required.

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Some of the bits used to shape the pieces.

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This copper water pipe is proving very handing as a heat sink. I've just flattened the ends.

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Marty

[sibhs]

Bit more rust around the tail light.

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Not sure how you crack the handbrake mount but had to grind out the cracks, jack-up from below and weld.

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Marty

[lctriples]

Popeye may have been previous owner and didn't know his strength when putting handbrake on! Great work as usual marty!

Edited by lctriples, 02 June 2020 - 10:25 AM.

[claysummers]

Too many hand brakeys?

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

[Shiney005]

No such thing Clay. 

[sibhs]

Decided to do some panel beating on the rear guard while the guts of the boot are out. This way I can stick my arm up from below rather than working from above later in the build.

 

I took a heap of pics, one each time I did a bit and gives you an idea of progress. Very happy how its coming along, this took about two hours.

 

I used a powder guide coat and there's a picture of the tools used.  It's a shame some butcher used 36 grit on the panel at some stage. That grade of paper should be banned from panel shops.

 

First couple of pics are just washing it down from the KBS. I worked on the top half of panel first.

Last pic shows it after re-applying KBS.

 

 

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Marty

[Potta]

Love your work as always mate.

[sibhs]

Hi Guys,

Back from holiday in Exmouth and Shark Bay then had a family gathering at my place so I wasn't allowed to make any mess.

Finally back into it but just putting along.

While I couldn't make a mess I did a bit of pottering in the back workshop on some little bits.

Cleaned up the reverse wires.

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and the rear number plate light.

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Cut off the dags from my moulded seat knobs and polished my knob end!!!!

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[sibhs]

Cleaned and assembled the brake block

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I noticed that the rear passenger guard needed pushing out on its crease line. It was a hard spot to get into and put any pressure on. I made a gismo that I could wind out and then I slapped the outside panel along the edge to bring it out. It has made it better.

Knife edged a bit of 'T' bar and welded on some threaded rod.

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Before I pushed out the crease I drew the line on the body by using electrical conduit.

 

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Marty

[sibhs]

I've got myself an engine.

Picked up a 173 with a CD prefix so it won't be out of place in the LC. The engine had been fully reconditioned 4 years ago but never started. They'd spent $5700 on it and it cost me $1500 and a four hour drive to pick it up.

 

The build receipt didn't explain cam and head chambers or compression so I've dropped it off to my engine builder to pull the sump and head and check it out. 

Hopefully most of it's good enough for my needs. I'll supply the correct sump and rocker cover when it's ready. Hopefully in a few weeks I get some news that it's a good block to start with.

 

Once I stripped the external parts off i gave it a paint strip.

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First round.

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Second round of sripper.

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Back in the trailer.

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At the engine builders.

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Cheers

Marty

[claysummers]

Sounds like a bloody nice score Marty.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[bat 53]

beat me to it 

[Gatti]

Nice score 

Edited by Gatti, 23 July 2020 - 08:42 PM.

[sibhs]

Made up the section that sits at the rear of tyre well.

Again just using a shape I had lying around which was a press plate. Unfortunately I couldn't find a female part so got the router out and cut the shape in a chunk of wood.

 

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Managed to remove most of the creases by squashing them in the press.

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[sibhs]

I'm enjoying this rear end work. There's plenty of assembling all the parts to trial fit and then making the missing parts. It's all starting to come together.

Big thank-you to a couple of guys on this forum who have willingly donated rust replacement parts. This has helped immensely and keeps the project moving forward. 

Welding has been getting so much better with this lower guard looking amazing. You'll notice the heat marks around the welds are kept within 5-10mm by laying down 4 spots then hitting it with compressed air and moving my way along.

 

Sprayed with Coopers paint stripper this black paint just falls off.

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Some of my best welds right here.

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Little bit of braising rod used to fill a gap.

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Edited by sibhs, 29 July 2020 - 11:15 PM.