984 replies to this topic

[sibhs]

Here's a repair on the tail light holders. One had a few holes and the other a fair bit of rust.

 

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[rodomo]

Resto of the year

[sibhs]

With the boot floor about to go in it's an exciting stage. 

Stripped the panels with paint stripper then applied KBS to the under side. Copper coated the bits that will be hidden and welded.

Test fitted the fuel tank and found it wouldn't sit back enough on the left side. Did some investigating and found the panel lips were differant sizes. Had to cut and adjust lip to match.

 

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Marty

[Shiney005]

Resto of the year

X 2. 

20 years ago, a body that needed that much work would have only ended up on the tip.  

Are you keeping track of the hours you are spending on it Marty?

Edited by Shiney005, 18 August 2020 - 09:40 AM.

[Rockoz]

Why are you not doing the KBS inside the rails.

I used copper coat on a few bits that were left in the weather, and it didnt stand up too well.

Rust started coming through after a while, where the KBS beside it remained rust free.

 

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[sibhs]

X 2. 

20 years ago, a body that needed that much work would have only ended up on the tip.  

Are you keeping track of the hours you are spending on it Marty?

Hi Laurie, I'm not keeping track of hours spent, just enjoying it. 

 

Why are you not doing the KBS inside the rails.

I used copper coat on a few bits that were left in the weather, and it didnt stand up too well.

Rust started coming through after a while, where the KBS beside it remained rust free.

 

 

Cheers

 

Rob

Hi Rob,

I've KBS'd the internal bottom and sides of rails and a lot of that copper is over spray. It's the boot floor that only has the copper for welding purposes. Once this is on a rotisserie I'll treat all the dodgy areas with KBS.  The internal chassis rails 360º will be flooded with cavity wax.

 

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Edited by sibhs, 18 August 2020 - 01:11 PM.

[sibhs]

These pics show the floor tek screwed down, the original fuel pipe hole section fitted in place. Then the plug welding.

 

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Using the panel LED for extra lighting really helps.

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Tack welded in position.

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This is what happens to a plug weld when you run out of gas.

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Always keep a spare ready for these times.

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Having a rest after a big day.

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Marty

[sibhs]

Brilliant job Marty...Admire your enthusiasm...

Hi Wayne, while the enthusiasm is flowing I'm running with it! 'Cause sure as hell it runs dry every so often.

 

Cheers

 

Marty

[sibhs]

A little tip for all the grinders out there.

 

I've only recently discovered quality grinding discs. I've been using various brands from Bunnings and Makita ones that come free with the grinders.  They all started of well but soon become clogged and less effective wasting heaps of time and heating up the metal more than necessary. 

 

I tried these a couple of months ago and they've been fantastic, wish I'd known about them earlier. A24R is the compound hardness which is the same number on my crappy discs so don't rely on that as a guide.

 

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A heap of grinding done here.

 

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Marty

[rodomo]

Use flap wheels mate. Way quicker.

https://www.google.c...iw=1024&bih=707

Edited by rodomo, 19 August 2020 - 11:03 PM.

[sibhs]

Thanks Rob.

I was told by an old school body repair guy who seemed to know his stuff. Use thinish grinding discs and use them on their edge and only grind weld. Flap discs will take extra metal from the sheet metal next to weld. The weld is harder so the flap disc tends to curve over the weld and hit the sheet. I've used both and feel this way is better for the strength of the repair.

I'm happy to hear other peoples opinions and change my mind. I'm still learning all this stuff.

 

Marty

[claysummers]

I was told use 32# sanding disc on grinder when repairing spotlight hole in the roof of my Ute but yes mainly use grinder disc on edge. When I used the flap discs I loved them until I started going through the sheet.

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[sibhs]

This is the work that went into the rear join and especially the fuel pipe hole section.

The original lumpy lines didn't quite marry up with the replacement panels. Mine had been abused when the other skin was fitted decades ago.

I used a barbell weight to hammer the two sides to match.

You'll see a rounded chisel from a jack hammer, I bought a couple from Bunnings because they where cheap, 50c down from $50. Had now idea what I'd do with them but found they fit the boot lumpy lines.

There was also a section missing at the front of the pipe hole section, I neatened the gap and made some filler sections.

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Marty

[lctriples]

Hey Marty great bit of ingenuity there!, For what it's worth, I found the flap discs worked much better for grinding back welds as you could use different grits to fine tune certain areas. More expensive way to go but I tended to get a better result, plus my neighbours certainly appreciated is as you prob found grinding disc are a lot noisier.  Keep up the great work, paul.

[sibhs]

Hi Paul, appreciate the feedback. Yes! I forgot about the noise difference, I'm always wearing the ear muffs. I agree the metal looks better after using a flap disc.

 

Cheers

Marty

[Mitchyboy]

Im with you Marty
I've also been told by an old fella and even watched many welding/grinding videos on you tube that say using a 2.5mm disc to grind down your welds is the way to go first then you finish up with the flap disc.
I have found that the flap discs just wear out too fast on welds and as mentioned they wear down the steel around aswell.(plus they are expensive)
Also if you take your welds back too flush/perfect level you have issues also. Just recently after getting my car blasted some floor welds I had previously completed and grinded smooth the blaster blew through in parts and I have had to fix it up/re weld.
Going to leave them a little bit proud this time around


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[sibhs]

Im with you Marty
I've also been told by an old fella and even watched many welding/grinding videos on you tube that say using a 2.5mm disc to grind down your welds is the way to go first then you finish up with the flap disc.
I have found that the flap discs just wear out too fast on welds and as mentioned they wear down the steel around aswell.(plus they are expensive)
Also if you take your welds back too flush/perfect level you have issues also. Just recently after getting my car blasted some floor welds I had previously completed and grinded smooth the blaster blew through in parts and I have had to fix it up/re weld.
Going to leave them a little bit proud this time around


Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Spot on Mitch, it all comes with experience and hopefully every one learns some new tips and tricks. 

I think I've become a pretty good grinder through all this. There is a fair bit of finesse required with gentle passes just touching the high bits of the weld.

 

Marty

[CI 0308]

Marty have you tried grinding back the welds using those 3m Cubitron 11 sanding disk's that were recommended in either Trevs Blog or Fitzys YouTube videos.

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[sibhs]

No I haven't. Does it look like this? (as in hard non flexible disc)?

 

When I googled there was also a flexible style which I would expect to flex around weld. 

 

 

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[CI 0308]

That's the hard version the flexible version is apparently created just for the task of grinding back spot welds. And I think that Fitzy guy who is the panel repair guy on YouTube recommends them as they last twice as long and are twice as quick. Also twice the price I suppose being 3m. I think BOC carry them.

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[CI 0308]

Marty take a look at these.

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=ULCbsww_Ar4

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=pDTln6BnIX0

Edited by CI 0308, 21 August 2020 - 12:16 PM.

[gtrboyy]

Admire the skill & patience required in a build like this...If I had 1/2 those skills my gtr be back on road years ago.

[sibhs]

Brett, I checked out those video's. Sure looks faster but they are restricted for versatility. There are so many times when the edge of the disc is the only part of disc that'll reach or do the job so that Cubricon becomes a bit limited.  I think I'm stubborn.

 

Thanks gtrboyy and Brett.

 

Marty

[Com_VC]

yeah those 3m cubitron II are the best out there as far as sanding discs go, I rate the grinding discs as well.  They last so long.  They used to be about $5 for the sanding discs and $10 for the grinding discs.  I've used 100's of them.

 

Looks like you've done a good job with what you have used though.

 

Those 10mm air belt sanders are good for tight access areas as well, just make sure you use a decent belt on them.