984 replies to this topic

[sibhs]

This is the last time I plan on sand blasting in the room so I'm doing the bonnet and a few other big bits.

 

The Bonnet looked like it had a light black primer on it but it wasn't easy to get off.

 

First the catch was removed by lightly drilling out the end of burred over pin. I'll re fit with a rivet in the end to keep it close to original looking.

 

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First round of paint stripper.

 

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I don't look happy but that could just be the last time I blast in the room, ye-haaaa.

 

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Marty

 

 

 

[Mitchyboy]

Looking great Marty.
I think your crazy hahaa.
Just a quick one how do you go with the tips for the sand blaster?
You have replacements? How long they last for you?
The one I brought all my tips have expanded and it runs shit house now and they don't make replacement tips for it at Sydney tools.


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[sibhs]

Looking great Marty.
I think your crazy hahaa.
Just a quick one how do you go with the tips for the sand blaster?
You have replacements? How long they last for you?
The one I brought all my tips have expanded and it runs shit house now and they don't make replacement tips for it at Sydney tools.


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Great question Mitch.

The blaster came with 4 tips, 2 large orifice and 2 smaller.

First thing that went was the on/off tap at the end of the hose. I was trying to reduce the airflow to make every thing last longer so the tap was only on half way. This caused the valve to be blasted away in a very short time. Purchased two new taps.

Then I dropped the hand piece and busted one of the larger tips. Fitted the last big tip. That wore out after a good few sessions. Fitted a smaller tip which blocked frequently until I went to finer grit. That tip wore out after a few good sessions. I'm now on my last tip and I have the worn out sample in the car as I hunt for more.  I also blew through the hose where it joins the machine about three times, each time cutting the hose shorter to fix. I also wore out another tap and am on my last one.

I was told you can make a really long lasting tip out of a spark plug white section. Sounded a bit involved though.

 

I keep using worn tips and it becomes a waste of sand and effort, once I fit a new tip it's like Wow! this is better.

 

Marty

[Mitchyboy]

Great question Mitch.
The blaster came with 4 tips, 2 large orifice and 2 smaller.
First thing that went was the on/off tap at the end of the hose. I was trying to reduce the airflow to make every thing last longer so the tap was only on half way. This caused the valve to be blasted away in a very short time. Purchased two new taps.
Then I dropped the hand piece and busted one of the larger tips. Fitted the last big tip. That wore out after a good few sessions. Fitted a smaller tip which blocked frequently until I went to finer grit. That tip wore out after a few good sessions. I'm now on my last tip and I have the worn out sample in the car as I hunt for more. I also blew through the hose where it joins the machine about three times, each time cutting the hose shorter to fix. I also wore out another tap and am on my last one.
I was told you can make a really long lasting tip out of a spark plug white section. Sounded a bit involved though.

I keep using worn tips and it becomes a waste of sand and effort, once I fit a new tip it's like Wow! this is better.

Marty

Yeah mate ive had the same issue with mine.
The sand blaster only cost me around $200 bucks.
Now I cant get any replacement tips. Sydney tools have the upgraded model now. It has a different gun end so the tips aren't interchangeable. They won't just sell me the replacement gun and tips for that either have to buy the whole machine again which is stupid.
My mechanic/gear guy said he can lathe me up one from brass or metal but reckons it won't last long either and 100 bucks for a tip no thanks.
I can't source any replacement handles or gun ends for it anywhere and the industrial places the guns are crazy expensive and shit for the little machine anyways.
Going to have to throw it out if I can't get any tips. Seems a waste as its a good little machine but I dunno where to go from here.
I've only blasted the k frame, diff and suspension parts and all my tips are gone.
I wanted to do the hinges small parts etc but I have given up and just been using paint stripper and wire brush attachments
Spewing.

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[warrenm]

What do the tips look like?

[claysummers]

My sand blaster consists of a $30 gun, bucket of dried sand and 13cfm compressor. Compressor can't keep up, but I only use it in tight spots. Otherwise it works a treat.

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[sibhs]

What do the tips look like?

Hi Warren, the ones on my machine look like the white section of a spark plug. Long thin going from about 15mm wide to 10mm wide at the tip. These are used on the ball valve style gun.

 

There is another style used on the dead mans gun which is bigger and pink in colour, these are easier to find.

 

Marty

[Mitchyboy]

These are the tips for my one.
They are ceramic I think.
The 3mm worked the best but they just go to shit so fast its not funny
Any ideas on replacements would be great haha

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[Rockoz]

Anyone thought about going to a pottery craft place and see if they fire ceramics as well?

Looks like it would be an easy enough design to replicate then get fired.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[sibhs]

Finding 5 good rims has been a challenge. I bought 7 rusty dirty rims from one bloke and another 2 from someone else.

After having them in molasses, and sand blasting I've managed to find five acceptable rims.

There was a little bonus in amongst them as one cleaned up to be a Nibless 1973 rim.

 

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Here's my five nibbed rims

 

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I'm applying KBS to the internals to help prevent rusting.

 

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Below are some molasses brewing pictures. Every so often you have to scoop out the crud that forms on the top.

 

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Marty

[claysummers]

You going to “de-nib” them Marty?


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[claysummers]

Thanks for the molasses shots. I bought 20L of it but haven’t tried it yet as I’ve been using citric acid.


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[sibhs]

You going to “de-nib” them Marty?


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Hi Clay, leaving them nibbed, that's how they were on the GTR's.

 

Thanks for the molasses shots. I bought 20L of it but haven’t tried it yet as I’ve been using citric acid.


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It's amazing stuff if you have the time.

[Ice]

Had these in a molasses bath for 3 months prior to blasting and 2 K primer 

came out a treat 

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[claysummers]

Very nice. No one could call you impatient gene.

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[Indy Orange]

Looks great , GTS rims look fantastic when painted up.

Edited by Indy Orange, 15 January 2021 - 09:39 AM.

[sibhs]

The petrol tank looked really good inside, no visible rust just clean metal.

I wasn't going to put a fuel tank coating system in this like I did in the LJ but after sand blasting and getting it covered in dust I could notice pin holes of leakage. I had sprayed CRC in the tank months ago.

 

So my advice is check it for leaks or coat the insides to get rid of any pin holes even if it looks mint inside.

 

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Out with the used grit and in with the new

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A couple of my favourite pics after I cleaned-up the garage and opened the garage door for the first time in a year.

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Marty

[grumpy xu1]

To me, the gts rally rims look best restored correctly, which means a low gloss looking clear, it does mean that you need to clean them more thoroughly though. Some of the original rims are oversprayed a bit in the corners though. No one really cared in the 70's. You might have to get on the doobies to mask them Geno !

[Ice]

Looking good Marty 

That sand gets everywhere for sure 

 

Doobies don’t know about that Gary 

You can buy a stencil kit

sorry about  the thread steal Marty 

[sibhs]

Scraped out the bits of sealer in the gutter to find some rust. These spikey tools came in handy.

 

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Moving the reverse switch wiring hole to accommodate the Aussie 4 speed.  I noted that the hole sizes varies between the two wiring grommets. Opal 20mm Aussie 14mm

 

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Taped in the new metal ready to weld.

 

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Fitted the seat bolt retainer.

 

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I was concerned about the centre console position due to factory screw holes not centered. I checked another car and it was the same, skewed to the drivers side.

 

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Marty

[bat 53]

does the consol seam to have a twist in it   

[sibhs]

does the consol seam to have a twist in it   

Hi Albert, yes the front is toward the pedals.  It looks offset to the shifter hole and I was worried it might be an Opal position. So I checked a friends LJ 72 and his factory screw holes are skewed to the pedal side.

Marty

[sibhs]

Fully welded the tops of the guards and set about grinding them flat. Tek screwed them every inch then removed every second one, prepped the hole and plug welded. Then did the remaining screws and clamping joins first if it looked like it needed it.

 

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Marty

[sibhs]

Did a couple of things I wasn't planning on tackling.

Firstly the lower rear window sill look fairly solid. But after sand blasting I noticed it had been repaired roughly before. I've heard the repair panels are good so I made the call to replace it.

 

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Then I decided to remove the sound deadening from the roof. This looked good and I like the original look it has but I'm glad I did because some of it came off very easily and there was rust below it. Only took about 20 mins to remove.

 

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Marty

[rodomo]

You are a Trojan