984 replies to this topic

[sibhs]

G'day,

I'm fully focused on getting the shell in etch primer. Just finished grinding all the welds flat. Used the 10mm belt grinder for all the bits that I couldn't get to with the angle grinder. Definitely go through the belt quickly but there's not much out there that can reach those tight little spots.

 

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Marty

[claysummers]

You shrunk yourself down to a leprechaun to get in those tight spots 8)


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[sibhs]

First round of Rust Blast is done. Spent a lot of time just focusing on seams and any rusty areas.

 

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You shrunk yourself down to a leprechaun to get in those tight spots 8)


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No need to shrink me any further thanks Clay.

[Mitchyboy]

Rust blast is the best!
WINNING Marty!!

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[sibhs]

Now the metal is clean I can see bits of paint i'd missed so next was a bit of paint removal then another round of KBS Rust Blast.

 

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This time I left the blast on too long and did too much scrubbing and flushing with water and the car turned gold.

I have a lot of confidence in Rust Blast but I was really hoping to get a picture of the shell in shiny bare metal so I made a few enquiries about other product like Oxi removers. 

They all mentioned you must get it all off after, or neutralise with BiCarb otherwise it will keep eating away at the metal. You also had to get the etch on quickly after its dry.

This sounded all to risky to me so I've decided to re-apply KBS but this time following the instructions. With KBS you just hose it off and if you don't get it all off, no drama. You also have about 4 weeks to etch due to it leaving a zinc coating. The only down side I see with KBS is you never get beautiful shiny metal to admire. I'd rather a quality job rather than shiny metal.

 

Marty

[CYCO355]

When you do your next one maybe look into these


I want to keep mine bare metalled for as long as possible as I’m taking ages to repair it


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[sibhs]

Hi Cameron, 

I've heard good things about EasyPhos. This product keeps metal shiny and ready for painting. I would of had to apply the AntiOx first and that's the product that needs neutralising or it keeps eating metal.

When ever a product says it needs neutralising it concerns me. What if I miss a bit?

 

I think if you know a product and you're comfortable with it, stick with it.

I do like the look of your shiny metal though.

 

Marty

[Rockoz]

Hi Cameron, 

I've heard good things about EasyPhos. This product keeps metal shiny and ready for painting. I would of had to apply the AntiOx first and that's the product that needs neutralising or it keeps eating metal.

When ever a product says it needs neutralising it concerns me. What if I miss a bit?

 

I think if you know a product and you're comfortable with it, stick with it.

I do like the look of your shiny metal though.

 

Marty

Just keep throwing water at it if you are worried.

Eventually it gets diluted to neutral anyway.

And.

You will most likely be painting the area after it is treated.

That should seal it from the air, which means any oxidising should stop.

It needs oxygen to keep rusting away.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[CYCO355]

Hi Cameron,
I've heard good things about EasyPhos. This product keeps metal shiny and ready for painting. I would of had to apply the AntiOx first and that's the product that needs neutralising or it keeps eating metal.
When ever a product says it needs neutralising it concerns me. What if I miss a bit?

I think if you know a product and you're comfortable with it, stick with it.
I do like the look of your shiny metal though.

Marty

Cheers Marty, I look forward to your updates.


Yeah they do look good shiny.


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[71xu1]

When you do your next one maybe look into these
I want to keep mine bare metalled for as long as possible as I’m taking ages to repair it
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Love this stuff.

[Rockoz]

Cameron

 

When you look further into it, the companies that make the stuff and the high end shops that use it, recommend that once you get it to bare metal, you do a 2k etch prime as soon as possible.

Sorry for the long sentence.

 

Once the shell is stripped, it gets etched.

You might then need to do repairs. 

Do the metal work to as close as you can to the required shape, then you etch over that bit of bare metal before going to using fillers, or hi fill primer.

If you have used bog to fine out the detail, you etch prime over that as your next step.

 

The idea is to have the metal and any repairs locked up with etch.

 

There are small cheap guns available on sites such as Wish that would be right for mixing small batches of etch and not waste any.

 

Ive bought quite a bit of stuff from various Wish suppliers, and havent had any real problems.

In fact they have given me Wish credit more than once when they detected something not quite right with transactions.

 

I think I have about a dozen guns now.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[CYCO355]

Cameron

When you look further into it, the companies that make the stuff and the high end shops that use it, recommend that once you get it to bare metal, you do a 2k etch prime as soon as possible.
Sorry for the long sentence.

Once the shell is stripped, it gets etched.
You might then need to do repairs.
Do the metal work to as close as you can to the required shape, then you etch over that bit of bare metal before going to using fillers, or hi fill primer.
If you have used bog to fine out the detail, you etch prime over that as your next step.

The idea is to have the metal and any repairs locked up with etch.

There are small cheap guns available on sites such as Wish that would be right for mixing small batches of etch and not waste any.

Ive bought quite a bit of stuff from various Wish suppliers, and havent had any real problems.
In fact they have given me Wish credit more than once when they detected something not quite right with transactions.

I think I have about a dozen guns now.

Cheers

Rob

It’s been bare metal for over 4 months, no surface rust. I don’t want to etch it to leave it for months for the etch to absorb anything, then I’ll be rubbing it back again. At worst I’ll use their anti ox for any surface rust and redo the easyphos.


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[sibhs]

Applied the third lot of Rust Blast, this time following the instructions and a much better looking result.

 

Before

 

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After

 

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Then it was time to apply Rust Seal to all the welds and new panels and seams. Give you an idea of how much metal has been replaced.

 

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Next it was time to rub back the Rust Seal and test my new big sanding block, this felt great and gives me confidence in getting  good flat panels.

 

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About 10 hours spent sanding and then going over the whole car with a scourer. I would never advise Rust Seal as a final paint finish, even with its Top coat brand.  Great for stopping rust but it never looks as good as real paint.

 

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Marty

[grumpy xu1]

Durablock Marty ? Big blocks that you can get sand paper for would be fantastic.

[sibhs]

Durablock Marty ? Big blocks that you can get sand paper for would be fantastic.

Hi Gary, It's not a Durablock. Managed to find a place that sell sticky back rolls that match the width and just cut to length required. Has a gentle curve that flows nicely with the roof and big panels which will find any highs or lows.

 

Marty

[grumpy xu1]

Would you mind sharing the brand mate ? Even just a pm is fine.

[sibhs]

There you go Gary.

Bought an 80 and 120 grit roll

 

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[sibhs]

Time to do some repairs to the fuel tank.

 

Firstly I gave it a clean with KBS Aqua Kleen, but before that can happen I need to work out ways to block the holes.

For the fuel pickup hole I used an old seal and lock clamp and cut a round bit of metal.

 

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The filler was blocked with an old gear knob wrapped in plastic.

 

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Ad the hot water and Aqua Kleen.

 

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Now that the tank definitely doesn't have fuel fumes in it I can use the dent puller.

 

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Then the Rust Blast was applied inside and out, rinsed well and put in the sun to dry.

 

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Once dry (next day) the Tank Seal is poured in and swished all over for 15 mins then drain the excess out.

 

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Out of a 500ml tin only 200ml gets used and the rest has to be ditched. I decided to paint the outside of the seams to ad extra protection.

 

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Then its masked up ready for etching soon.

 

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Marty

 

 

 

[claysummers]

Great work Marty. The tank sealer looks pretty thick. Thinners?


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[sibhs]

Great work Marty. The tank sealer looks pretty thick. Thinners?


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Hi Clay, It's just right, thick enough to seal holes but thin enough to flow easily around the tank and pour out.

 

Marty if your just looking for a neutralizeser just buy yourself some cheap old home brand white vinegar from Woolworths water down wipe on and off.

 

Cheers gong  

Thanks Gong, it's just the fact you have to neutralise and the warnings I received about making sure you do or it keeps eating the metal.

 

I took the day off work today to get this shell in etch. Was planning on doing it this week-end but we're due a heap of rain and I've got to empty the garage to turn it into a paint booth.

 

Masked out the plenum to protect the Amethyst.

 

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Garage all cleared out

 

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Fitted the exhaust filter to the extractor fan.

 

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Set-up the paint mixing station.

 

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A bit of sanding and then wipe down the whole shell.

 

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Get the PPE on.

 

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These paint pourers have made a huge difference to my pouring and measuring while keeping the lids clean.

 

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Etched pics to come later.

 

Marty

[claysummers]

Epotec 408 grey green? Good stuff.

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[Hatchback13]

Nice work there Marty, it’s a big effort getting a whole car in epoxy. I bet the shed turned green grey haha

I’m in the trade and haven’t seen those pourers, they look the business, always hard with a full tin haha. Clay I believe epotec to be a good product and a lot of restoration shops use it. PPG in general seams a common choice particularly with Aussie cars and colours, probably because they bought out dulux back in the day. Cheers

Edited by Hatchback13, 05 February 2021 - 06:20 PM.

[73SUNBURSTEXYOUWON]

Hi Marty,

Thats GOLD, priority is Torana over work...to get the car in etch.

This build is a credit to both you and your wife. Engenious!!