984 replies to this topic

[sibhs]

Hi Marty, I have to make imitation spot welds sometimes at work, I’ve found using a bolt ground nice and flat on the threaded end and do it in the primer. About the second or third coat you put it in and twist a bit, it seams to work well for me. Cheers

Thanks Brad, good tip.

 

Decided to do some bogging panel work while the cars on the rotisserie. Much easier working in a comfortable position than lying on the ground when it's on the cradle. This front beaver has had a few patch panels welded in and will be a bit swampy. 

 

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Marty

[sibhs]

A small update after too many Birthdays, anniversary and Easter slowing progress.

 

The heater core has been on hold after quotes around $550 to recore. I managed to get hold of another 6 to go with my 3 and I decided to check them all myself to see what's really wrong.

 

Six more to test.

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Setting up the water and air at 15psi for testing.

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All 9 units had some sort of leak so I picked out the easiest to repair.

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Set up my gas and solder ready to give this a go.

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Dremeled out to clean area and soldered the hole.

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Straightened up a pipe which caused a leak around pipe. Got the oxy out to braise copper and this is where it all went pear shaped.

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Blew a hole in the tank and ended up with molten solder dripping out of unit.

 

Grabbed another unit and took it to a radiator shop for repair. They are reluctant to fix them due to the risk of leak and difficulty removing once fitted. Managed to source a new core and re-core it for $360. I'm finally happy and can proceed to finish off the heater box assembly.

 

New one on the left.

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Marty

[claysummers]

Good on you for having a go at it but yes. You will sleep better with the recore I’m sure.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[sibhs]

Working my way through the last few bits of rust repairs. This one i've been putting off due to it's a bit tricky.

 

The drip rail behind quarter window was in bad shape.

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There are three layers here, drip rail, roof skin and sub frame. The frame was ok but a new skin had to be made.

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You have to be very careful not to pull in the roof skin when welding, I learnt this from doing the LJ. Use spacers to hold and control movement.

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Clean up the old drip rail and make a new section to replicate the old style. I had to crease it and shrink/stretch to get it to fit.

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Marty

 

[Shtstr]

I had to do the same thing on my lc gtr when I did it years ago.
As you would have found out no one makes a replacement section for it and the lead is a pain in the arse to get out so you can weld it in.

[Rockoz]

Glad you got a recore done.

Back many moons ago when I had a VB Commodore, the heater started leaking.

Was a huge job to get the old one out, it was one of the first items fitted to the dash area I reckon.

The whole lower dash had to come out.

Talked to the radiator guys back then.

They told me that the heater cores were still being made from the old 7 1/2 lb cores even in the 80s.

They replaced the core with a 15 lb one. Cost about the same as a new core from Holden at the time.

About 75 bucks.

The radiator guys reckoned they could be kept in business just from replacing the 7 1/2 lb cores on their own back then.

 

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[Ice]

I had my old GTR Torana heater recored years ago 

when i picked it up the guy said don’t ever bring it back 

pain in the arse to fix apparently 

$75 i wasn’t complaining  

[73SUNBURSTEXYOUWON]

Awsome work Marty, Recore heater is the way, you made the right choice.


Mine was $330, earlier in the year.

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[sibhs]

I had to do the same thing on my lc gtr when I did it years ago.
As you would have found out no one makes a replacement section for it and the lead is a pain in the arse to get out so you can weld it in.

Yeah! the lead just blows out and spits and farts. Hard to tell where the lead is when you're an amateur.

 

Glad you got a recore done.

Back many moons ago when I had a VB Commodore, the heater started leaking.

Was a huge job to get the old one out, it was one of the first items fitted to the dash area I reckon.

The whole lower dash had to come out.

Talked to the radiator guys back then.

They told me that the heater cores were still being made from the old 7 1/2 lb cores even in the 80s.

They replaced the core with a 15 lb one. Cost about the same as a new core from Holden at the time.

About 75 bucks.

The radiator guys reckoned they could be kept in business just from replacing the 7 1/2 lb cores on their own back then.

 

 

Cheers

 

Rob

It's one of those things you only want to do once.

 

I had my old GTR Torana heater recored years ago 

when i picked it up the guy said don’t ever bring it back 

pain in the arse to fix apparently 

$75 i wasn’t complaining  

Did he fix it or recore it?  Recore isn't hard for them.

 

Awsome work Marty, Recore heater is the way, you made the right choice.


Mine was $330, earlier in the year.

It's all still too much but it's got to be right. I'm now going to get another 4 recored.

 

Marty

[sibhs]

Another section repaired, this was a dented damaged bit from memory.

 

Had some sill section left over so cut that to suit. Noticed as always it's not quite the same profile so photos show the modifications required to fit best.

 

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Marty

[Heath]

Classy work as always, Marty.

[Ice]

You’re getting real good at this welding caper

[RynoByrnzy]

Loving all your info Marty, great write up. Im looking down the barrel of a long road ahead but exited at the same time. Giving me great enthusiasm.
I noticed you had a dremel, for the small horizontal cuts such as the one at the bottom of the rear window you did, and other awkward spots have you tried the grinding disc on the dremmel. I burn through them quick, so i cut lots of small 25mm discs from larger worn angle grinding disc with tin snips works well for me. Gets it the real tight spots the grinder cant.

[sibhs]

Loving all your info Marty, great write up. Im looking down the barrel of a long road ahead but exited at the same time. Giving me great enthusiasm.
I noticed you had a dremel, for the small horizontal cuts such as the one at the bottom of the rear window you did, and other awkward spots have you tried the grinding disc on the dremmel. I burn through them quick, so i cut lots of small 25mm discs from larger worn angle grinding disc with tin snips works well for me. Gets it the real tight spots the grinder cant.

Hi Ryno, Had a quick look at your project and it looks pretty solid. (not to rusty) 

It can be very rewarding when things work out. Just do as much as you can yourself or you'll waste a lot of money.

 

Dremel are rarely used by me. If it's in a picture it's normally the second last thing I tried then chuck it to the side. Dremels are only good for jewellers or model makers.

 

Cheers

Marty

[sibhs]

After a four week holiday to Exmouth I'm gradually getting back into the LC.

 

Finished off the rear screen rust repair. Used some brass blocks as heat sinks and unscrewed every second tek screw to plug weld my way along.

 

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Marty

[Shiney005]

Bring a few Coral Trout home with you Marty?

[sibhs]

Bring a few Coral Trout home with you Marty?

Hi Laurie, my high light with the fishing was getting 5 Spangled Emperor of the rocks, biggest 58cm. Kept three with the biggest being on the last cast and left them biting. I'm not a fan of over fishing a spot.

 

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I've had another round of getting paint off the bonnet. It's been a real struggle with paint stripper and the nylon pads struggling to have little effect. A new pad is good for about two minutes then it gums up with this paint. Anyway, almost there and gave it a KBS Rust Blast to keep in good shape until etching. I'll then buzz it with the sander for final prep.

 

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Marty

[claysummers]

Hi Marty,
Don by know if this helps but I find the plastic discs work best at low speed about 1.5 - 2 on my cheap polisher. Any faster the paint melts as does the disc. Lucky perserverence is your forte mate.
Cheers ,
Clay

early Holden nut

[sibhs]

Hi Marty,
Don by know if this helps but I find the plastic discs work best at low speed about 1.5 - 2 on my cheap polisher. Any faster the paint melts as does the disc. Lucky perserverence is your forte mate.
Cheers ,
Clay

early Holden nut

Hi Clay, I'll try that one day, think I've finished all the disc stripping. Disc worked fine on certain paints but not the original red oxide and this black undercoat.

 

I've drilled the holes for sill plates and hole blanks in floor.

 

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Ran out of wire so also decided it was time to change the lining in my welding gun.

 

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Had an extra hole near stainless trim end, got the trims out to check which one had to be welded up.

 

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Marty

[claysummers]

Very thorough. Agree the red lead is virtually indestructible. Unless using stripper i wouldn't bother removing it.

early Holden nut

[sibhs]

I've finally finished welding the body shell, a much bigger effort than expected.

 

Treated the welded areas with Rust Blast before rinsing off. A little tip for those that air dry stuff, get a cheap air blower, they're much better for drying large areas rather than using compressed air. 

 

Then the next day I had to warm the room, KBS paint and body-shell before applying the rust seal.

This is what rotisserie were invented for, turning and heating/cooking.

 

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Marty

[rodomo]

Difficult to get 18deg, C in my shed at the moment for paint. 

[sibhs]

Once the rust seal was dry I gave it a sand and the rest of the car a bit of a rub down.

 

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Had the heater on for a few hours and raised the temp up to 22degrees.

 

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Then sprayed all the repairs so it's 98% rust free and all in one colour.

 

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The rear guard lips were damaged so I cut them back and welded the cut edge so now if I want to fit my 9inch rims for a show they won't rub.

 

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Marty

[LJ RB30]

Looking good mate😁👍
All one colour is definitely a good feeling😁

[sibhs]

Looking good mate😁👍
All one colour is definitely a good feeling😁

Thanks Trev. Sure is, but I'm actually looking forward to adding a couple of other colours real soon.

 

Todays task is apply the bitumen coating to the inner roof.

Trying to get that factory look with sharp edge masking to the roof support and a soft edge around the sides.

 

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Used a sheet of cardboard with balls of tape used to lift it up about 5mm. Applied 1 litre of product then turned the car upright to help thicken the look.

 

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Marty