984 replies to this topic

[sibhs]

Finally finished the heater box. 

It's been a mission with loads of challenges. Thought I'd put together a few of my reference pictures of the LC LJ Heater box and heating control elements. It may help someone in the future.

 

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[sibhs]

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Edited by sibhs, 10 September 2021 - 11:36 PM.

[sibhs]

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[sibhs]

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Edited by sibhs, 10 September 2021 - 11:50 PM.

[sibhs]

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I guess a fully recond heater box if you could get one is easily worth $1500

 

Marty

[308 Sunbird]

That is magnificent work as usual Marty and an invaluable reference for the little Torana boys and girls- well done.

[sibhs]

That is magnificent work as usual Marty and an invaluable reference for the little Torana boys and girls- well done.

Thanks Stuart.

 

A little tip for others.

Fit the foam under fan motor before fitting the motor.

I didn't and had a shit fight getting the fan off again with-out splitting the box. Very frustrating and annoying mistake.

 

Marty

[Indy Orange]

Very handy those gaskets! Originally they didn’t have them ,the Bostick Mastic was used , very messy stuff.

[sibhs]

Time to put all the panels back on the body and check the fit and gaps.

I'll focus this report on the boot lid.

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Found the boot skin had separated from ribbing so I strapped it down to twist it into position and spot welded the two together.

 

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Scraped the bitumen coating off and cleaned up the mess.

 

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Rust blasted then etched, bogged and sanded.

 

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Marty

[73SUNBURSTEXYOUWON]

I've said this before,

Absolutely Fabulous Marty!!!

[RallyRed]

Agree....amazing!

[73SUNBURSTEXYOUWON]

Hi Marty,
when you get around to finishing the underside of the bootlid, the bitumen finished areas, can you please share those images and product used.

I know its been mentioned before on the forums.
Mine needs to be fixed up eventually.

Cheers
Jaso.

[sibhs]

Hi Marty,
when you get around to finishing the underside of the bootlid, the bitumen finished areas, can you please share those images and product used.

I know its been mentioned before on the forums.
Mine needs to be fixed up eventually.

Cheers
Jaso.

Will do Jaso, It should be done in the next week or two.

 

Thanks Col.

 

With the panels fitted I went around marking where to grind back and where to fill in with welding rod.

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I had a problem trying to get the top of the nose level with bonnet. Worked out an easy fix by rebending the tab that connects to bonnet catch to pull it down level. Black line is where the new bend is and elongated hole to adjust.

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One of the rims had a split in the edge. Welded and smoothed that out before etching.

 

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Drilled and test fitted side mirrors.

 

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Marty

[TOERUNNER]

Hey Marty, i am in the process of doing all of the gaps on my GTR,                                                                                                                                                                                                      my plan was to stitch weld the filler wire every 25mm or so .                                                                                                                                                                                                                    I see you are  fully welding yours, do you think i would be better off fully welding also? cheers Rodney 

[sibhs]

Hi Rodney,

I think it's better to fully weld it. But I'm a beginner and no expert.

Both would work but it's like just stitch welding in replacement metal, it'll work but what makes you happier.

 

Cheers

 

Marty

[Heath]

Bloody marvellous work. Always so impressed reading your posts, Marty.

[gtrboyy]

Same here awsome work & detailed posts about the build....feels like a time warp going back decades when people knew how to would rebuild their cars at home.

 

Makes me scared for the day my lc gtr gets stripped down & rebuilt.

[sibhs]

Bloody marvellous work. Always so impressed reading your posts, Marty.

Funny that! I see your work on the hatch and am totally blown away by your skills Heath. 

 

Here's the bonnet update.

 

When doing the gaps I trimmed a bit off a back corner edge and had to weld that edge to stop it separating.

 

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Then it was rust blasted again and treated to a buzz with the sander. This has been the hardest panel to strip.

 

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Next its etched and then bogged. Not sure how anyone can get a straight bonnet with-out bog. 

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Thankfully most of the bog ends up in the bin.

 

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Then its etched again, flipped over and start working on the underside.

 

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Seam sealer run around the edge seam. This will get sanded then a coat of high fill.

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Marty

[sibhs]

Test fitting the boot lock. Wouldn't fit in. Had a couple of splits that I welded then ground the offending edges and now she fits.

 

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Marty

[rodomo]

I'm with ya that most of it ends up on the floor.

[sibhs]

Rubbed back the seam sealer and etch before painting with a primer.

 

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These bits are a PITA to sand.

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Scribed a knife line to help in re-fitting bonnet.

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Spraying is so satisfying. I've told Sally if we ever move house I want a permanent spray booth. The Primer comes out silky smooth.

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Marty

[Ice]

Fastidious work as always Marty 

[claysummers]

Good stuff Marty. Temp above 20C and humidity below 60% is my rule of thumb in the shed. Too cold here yet.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[73SUNBURSTEXYOUWON]

Nice work Marty..

Did you get that little crack fully welded??,
I noticed it in your earlier photos, creeping it's way along - away from the latch.

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[sibhs]

Nice work Marty..

Did you get that little crack fully welded??,
I noticed it in your earlier photos, creeping it's way along - away from the latch.

Hi Jaso, I just did a spot weld in the middle of crack just to stop it opening up. Looks like the lock had been forced at some stage causing the damage.

 

Here's that info you requested.

Masked out the boot leaving the areas for bitumen coating open. The final result is not really like the original finish, not sure if you could ever get an original looking result. (looks like road base covered in tar). 

This is a bitumen product and I used about three coats. Just trying to give it as much texture as possible.

 

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Marty