984 replies to this topic

[I'm a Red Motor fiend]

Marty the quarter repair I get, nothing more you can do unless you want to re clear two quarters, two sills and a roof.

Did you consider feathering out the door and flicking the colour back out towards the rear of the door?
That masking has concentrated the effect in that tiny area and will be very visible I think in the light?

[sibhs]

Marty the quarter repair I get, nothing more you can do unless you want to re clear two quarters, two sills and a roof.

Did you consider feathering out the door and flicking the colour back out towards the rear of the door?
That masking has concentrated the effect in that tiny area and will be very visible I think in the light?

Hi Adam, thanks for reply, I always consider everyones advice then make my own mind up. You're right about flicking the colour toward the rear, this is actually what I did. That masking was removed and colour blended back after speaking with another forum member spray painter who advised me on this technique.

Cheers

Marty

[I'm a Red Motor fiend]

Excellent, glad you did blend that way.

[sibhs]

I think 1 of the main points Marty was trying to hint to here, is for other people to be patient during the excitement of de masking, learn from his mistakes. We all make them from time to time, & it's good to say, this was my mistake, please make sure that you don't do this. But Marty has also shown that working together you can come up with solutions. Pretty much what our forum is about really.

Well said Gary, I've had a lot of support from some really good people on here. I can't imagine how wrong restorations would be without this resource.

Yes, I make heaps of mistakes and then try and work out a fix-up.

 

I've got the whole car rubbed back to 3000 grit. Now I have to wait a few weeks for the paint to harden more before giving it a polish. This will be the big test to see if the paint job is ok. Once it's all polished I can start the black-outs.

 

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While I wait for the paint to be ready I'll paint the boot and dash areas. Takes a lot of cleaning and I stood in the fuel tank hole while first coating all the hard to get to bits.

 

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Mixing the off black for boot.

 

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Definitely need to use a light to see what bits you miss.

 

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Masked up for the dash.

 

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The light in action.

 

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Very happy with the results.

 

Marty

[Ice]

Thats a nice GMH slops black colour in the boot 

You nailed it mate 

[sibhs]

The time has come to start compounding. I gathered all my polishing gear together and got started on the first round. I'm using a dual action machine and the Scholl very coarse cut and firm yellow pad to start.

 

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Starting on the boot lid, got to remember the technique used with this machine.

Starting with a dull looking finish.

 

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After the first pass I noticed a mark in the paint, bugger, looks like its come from when I taped up the boot lid when repainting the under side.

 

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Managed to re-sand it and get rid of the mark.

 

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Amazing how different it looks after a compound.

 

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Stored the boot lid in the Torana bedroom with all the other parts. Also handy as a mirror.

 

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Still have the medium and fine compounding to do.

 

Cheers

Marty

[claysummers]

Wow. Great result Marty.


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[Potta]

Great colour choice Marty, looking good mate.

[claysummers]

What brand of paint are you using Clay?

Valspar 303 acrylic base. PPG Dulon 526-48213 clear acrylic. Dulon all purpose thinner R103.

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[sibhs]

More progress pictures.

The whole car is now compounded at the coarse grade, I'll now check it all for defects.

 

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Just had to see what the badge looked like on this colour.

 

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Marty

[Mitchyboy]

Wow.
Looking awesome Marty
Top job!!!

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[Ice]

Looking real good Marty

[LJ RB30]

WOW loving that shine mate!

Going to look spectacular in the sunshine!

You are a machine!

Awesome job ! 

[Bruiser]

Thats course grade? It still looks wet!
Full points Marty, thats a top job even with 2 warts or so
I'd be extremely proud of a result like that

[lctriples]

Hey Marty, what grade sandpaper and what product did you use to get such a brilliant finish!!! It looks like a three step system you are using with cut 'n' polish. Looks totally awesome, well done mate, you should be very proud of yourself for a self taught painter. When my mate was painting my torry he made it look so easy, i asked to paint a rear 1/4. As they say in the classics, didn't leave a run but a "gallop"!!  

[sibhs]

WOW loving that shine mate!

Going to look spectacular in the sunshine!

You are a machine!

Awesome job ! 

Hi Trev, I'm a bit nervous to what it'll look like in the sun. I've noticed some striping effect on the bonnet (applying the base coat wrong), I should of done some diagonal light coats to finish. Hopefully all the chrome and stainless will take your eyes away from the issues.

 

Thats course grade? It still looks wet!
Full points Marty, thats a top job even with 2 warts or so
I'd be extremely proud of a result like that

Thanks Bruce, after reading a Tech sheet on all the things that can go wrong when painting I feel lucky to only have orange peel, stripping, runs, sags, pin hole, dust and burn through with the polisher. There's at least another 10 things that could have happened. Most of mine I've been able to fix with sanding and compounding.

 

Hey Marty, what grade sandpaper and what product did you use to get such a brilliant finish!!! It looks like a three step system you are using with cut 'n' polish. Looks totally awesome, well done mate, you should be very proud of yourself for a self taught painter. When my mate was painting my torry he made it look so easy, i asked to paint a rear 1/4. As they say in the classics, didn't leave a run but a "gallop"!!  

Hi Paul, on a run or really heavy peel I started with 800. Normal cutting back I would start with 1200 and make sure it's all flat and correct before moving onto 2000 and finish with 3000. Use plenty of water and keep it clean so not to get any deep scratches from dirt.

The pro's do make it look easy. I think I could get there with plenty of practice.

 

I always remember the saying 'It's all in the prep work'  I think i've just proved theres a certain amount of skill required in the final spray job.

 

Marty

[claysummers]

Thanks very much for sharing this stuff Marty. I've a lot to learn and doing my dons car first time clear over base over Easter I hope. Very interested in the cutting polishing.

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[sibhs]

I found this way of working effective. Bucket of water with sanding pads and leave the wet & dry stuck to the sides with grade printed outwards for quick and easy identification. When doing large areas I run a hose to keep clean water flowing. Not required when spot fixing. The hard rubber block is best for first round of flattening the paint, then move on to the lighter foam pads.

 

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Along with a 'run' you will also find 'sags'. These are harder to see and I only spotted them once compounded. They can look like a ripple in the panel but it's just excess clear.

 

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This shows a sag after a light sand.

 

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Then fully sanded flat.

 

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When I re did the clear on door due to that damage, I didn't take as much care with cleanliness so ended up with some deep divots (holes). So with a steady hand and good glasses I dropped a bit more clear into them before rubbing the whole door back with wet & dry. Cannot see them any more so good result.

 

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The car is now compounded at the medium grade and starting to look good. I'm now ready to mask up for black-outs.

 

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Cheers

 

Marty

[Rockoz]

Panel beater mate of mine kept a bar of soap in the bucket of water for wet sanding.

Helped to stop the little balls of paint  forming on the paper, and kept the paper clean.

A bit of a stir up from time to time especially with fresh water.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[claysummers]

A few drops of water based industrial cleaner works well and water stays on the panel, running off less.


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[sibhs]

Thanks for the Likes, good to know people are watching.

 

Took about 6 hours of masking for the black-outs. A lot more complicated than I remember but I do stand around and just stare a lot. I've been collecting reference pictures which I've printed out and using for guidance. My advice is never get your reference from ONE car, even if it's never been touched since rolling out of GMH. Mistakes were made at the factory so it's best to have lots of original examples.

 

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From my research the black stops at the top of the rivets not bottom, but I couldn't work out how to mask it easily plus I feel its safer to have the join lower, less chance of seeing it.

 

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Doors are wrapped up tight like a Christmas present.

 

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Marty

[LJ RB30]

Mate i will always be watching your amazing work! 

Its looking spectacular 

[SLR202]

"I do stand around and just stare a lot" haha, good to know I'm not the only one, great build going on here, no doubt a great result coming up.

[Rockoz]

Nothing wrong with standing around and staring a lot.

I have solved many problems over the years by doing just that.

It is a great way of getting thought processes working.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[grumpy xu1]

Nothing wrong with standing around and staring a lot.
I have solved many problems over the years by doing just that.
It is a great way of getting thought processes working.
 
Cheers
 
Rob

It's also better than going gun ho & then having to fix rushed wrong decision. It should probably said that the prep is 50% of a good result, followed by cleanliness, taking your time, concentrating, planning, good tools & correct techniques