983 replies to this topic

[73SUNBURSTEXYOUWON]

Awsome stuff Marty, this whole topic is a digital version of a workshop manual. Very impressive.

Jaso

[sibhs]

I'm keen to get the roof lining in. Dug out the original one and cleaned up the rods and transferred them to the new lining one at time. 

Added the padding to the rear quarters and also the three stripes behind back seat. Also tried to replicate the chalk markings that were on from factory. One day someone may work out what it means.

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Original markings.

 

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I like to take my time with these. Last one took six weeks. Firstly get it unfolded and up in position.

 

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Using the old pinch weld to hold the lining in place.

 

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Marty

[rodomo]

,

Edited by rodomo, 20 May 2022 - 10:10 PM.

[sibhs]

Just realised I've got to get the wiring in for the interior light before fitting roof lining. Dug that part of the harness out, cleaned and tested it.

 

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Had some serious gunk stuck to it. I used thinners and a rag to wipe over the wires, wire brushed the connections and tested with volt meter for continuity.

 

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If it's ok to go on the dining room table it's got to be clean enough.

 

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Un-wrapped the stainless trim for the gutters, the glad wrap had stuck so I used thinners again to help clean it off.

 

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Marty

[jd lj]

Hey Marty,
Have you got a photo of the clips that hold the hood lining bows in place? I forgot to take that photo when I pulled mine apart. I'll be fitting my hood lining soon too.

Thanks in advance.

[Indy Orange]

That was probably a LJ thing James,stops the rods from flipping over, not mentioned in the LC manual, probably not needed.

Edited by Indy Orange, 21 May 2022 - 08:27 PM.

[Indy Orange]

Here ya go.

Attached Files

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[sibhs]

Hey Marty,
Have you got a photo of the clips that hold the hood lining bows in place? I forgot to take that photo when I pulled mine apart. I'll be fitting my hood lining soon too.

Thanks in advance.

Hi James, No clips on this LC. Thanks for posting that pic Paul.

[gad05]

Hi Marty,

 

Car is coming along beautifully, l always love your attention to detail.

Can I ask what you used to polish your gutter trims,l have 2 sets to restore.

Cheers Graham.

[sibhs]

Hi Marty,

 

Car is coming along beautifully, l always love your attention to detail.

Can I ask what you used to polish your gutter trims,l have 2 sets to restore.

Cheers Graham.

Hi Graham, on page one of this thread - post #11 are some pictures. 

Depending how bad they are you either start with dent removal (tapping out with flat punch) Then file flat, wet & dry thought the grades to 3000 then use the polishing wheel like in pics.  Two wheels used and the grey and white polish bars. Don't let the stainless get to hot or distortion can occur. 

I'm going to run the polishing wheel over it again while it's on the car, it's a lot easier to keep it secure.

 

Marty

[sibhs]

Both window winding mechanisms are in. 

 

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Door mechanism in and working.

 

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Bit by bit, getting there.

 

Marty

[jpxu1]

Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but pretty sure the glass has to go in before the mech :-(

[Indy Orange]

Don’t forget the weather strips.

[sibhs]

Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but pretty sure the glass has to go in before the mech :-(

It's been a long time since doing this. I thought it was winder then glass in then quarter window???

 

Don’t forget the weather strips.

I thought they went in last??

[Indy Orange]

Yeah , whilst the glass is still sitting in the bottom of the door.Then I could still get my arm up inside the door to push the clips up to secure the weather strips .

Edited by Indy Orange, 23 May 2022 - 11:02 AM.

[sibhs]

Yeah , whilst the glass is still sitting in the bottom of the door.Then I could still get my arm up inside the door to push the clips up to secure the weather strips .

I know it's a prick of a job. Can't wait!

[Indy Orange]

Sure is ! I suggest maybe use some rubber wedges to open the door glass gap to get the quarter glass frame in and the window glass, and use tape along the edges .I know you’ll do that anyway.👍

[sibhs]

Finally got the heater box in. took a couple of attempts. First time I fitted it I noticed the back seal didn't fit well against firewall. Pulled it out and cleaned up all the shitty mastic. Checked some original rear seals and noticed they're about 3mm thicker than after market.

 

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This time I used an original seal and it looks better.

 

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Noticed the accelerator rod was rubbing on heater box. Realised the throttle bracket was bent up a bit so straightened it out and it now clears, Just.

 

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Realised this car never came with the heater box cable clip. If anyone has a spare I would gratefully accept it.

Goes here.

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Looks like this one

 

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Clean up the venting and installed those. I was missing some of the heater box nuts which are an unusual thread to the rest of the car. Found out they're 5mm metric and got some from my local nut and bolt store. Look similar but not exact.

 

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I was given this as a gift, one of the nicest and handiest ratchets you'll find. Well worth the money.

 

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Marty

[Heath]

Slow down mate. You're making us look really bad.

Exciting times! Very fun part of the build.

[sibhs]

It's a good feeling unwrapping all these parts I restored a couple of years ago. Also glad I marked what they are and where they go.

 

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I hooked up a battery to test the fan and cable set-up is working.

 

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Also managed to get the glovebox in with-out to much trouble this time. There is a technique to it so you don't break it.

 

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Marty

[jd lj]

Marty,
Could you share the technique for fitting the glove box insert. I'll be doing my soon enough and recall that it's an awkward task.

[sibhs]

Marty,
Could you share the technique for fitting the glove box insert. I'll be doing my soon enough and recall that it's an awkward task.

Insert the left hand side first pushing it in as far as you can. This should give you just enough room to get the right hand side in. Next work on getting the top lip in behind metal. I used a plastic trim remover tool (Basically a plastic flat blade screwdriver). Lastly using the tool to lever the right hand side lip behind the metal edge. The bottom card stays on top of metal lip.

Good luck James.

 

Marty

[sibhs]

Time to clean up and repair the main wearing harness. I'll try and describe all the little fixes and photograph.

 

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This connector was discoloured and cracked. I have a spare harness which I have salvaged the missing and broken bits. Definitely worth having a butchered harness to get spares from.

 

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I used a home made tool to release the clips from the plugs. The tool is made from a street sweeper metal bristle, I've found many sitting in the street gutters.

 

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Re-fit the new plug.

 

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This indicator plug had been butchered

 

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I found some matching wires and joined and soldered further up the harness to be hidden by wrap.

 

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The tool I made in top left corner.

 

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Drill out the old wire from clip, fitted new wire and soldered.

 

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[sibhs]

Apon inspecting and cleaning the harness I noticed this tan wire had been cut. It's on the drivers side between headlight and brake booster. Worked out its the brake valve indicator. I have a spare and will fit that once harness is in so I know the length.

 

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Once I had cleaned and repaired it was time to fit the rubber grommet. You'll need plenty of lube for this job as you stretch this tiny hole over many large bits. Rubber grease is king for this task.

 

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A better picture of the tool. Removing clips I'd just put on.

 

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Heres a bunch of clips attached to a pull wire and taped up, with plenty of lube.

 

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[GTRMaxhunter20]

Coming along well Marty. Hydrogen peroxide may well whiten up the connectors like new. Worked a treat on my interior
Light lense.