983 replies to this topic

[GTRMaxhunter20]

I used inner tube on the front of LJ, only for the purpose of not scratching the paint, theres not water ingress to worry about. The rear section where the brackets mount is not a high finished paint area, so Mastic only is my recommendation.

[GTRMaxhunter20]

The company I work for manufactures non-skinning butyl mastics amongst other technologies like polyurethane, silicone, ms polymer etc. The butyl mastics are great as a sealant between components because they have no bond strength in an assembly sense; they don’t cure and so have no cohesive strength which would impede disassembly. Only short coming is dirt collection and the won’t cushion anything or have vibration resistance/gasket properties. Only thing to use for tail light housings, scuff plates etc. Marty is right - put it every where you can to stop leaks (except engine or cooling system.)

[gad05]

Thanks for the info Marty.
I will brake out the KBS on the weekend.
Cheers Graham.

[dacastle]

Marty

 

can I take you back to page 23 of your post - has all been great reading by the way - where did you get the replacement foam and heater box flap material .

 

I have purchased a gasket set and are waiting for rezincing of parts to rebuild my heater box

 

cheers

[sibhs]

Marty

 

can I take you back to page 23 of your post - has all been great reading by the way - where did you get the replacement foam and heater box flap material .

 

I have purchased a gasket set and are waiting for rezincing of parts to rebuild my heater box

 

cheers

Hi Dave, Foam kit was from Muscle Car parts on eBay. The flap material came from Clark Rubber from memory, left over from the LJ build.

 

I wouldn't use the foam in kit that joins heater box to fire wall. It's too thin compared to original.

 

Marty

[dacastle]

Hi Dave, Foam kit was from Muscle Car parts on eBay. The flap material came from Clark Rubber from memory, left over from the LJ build.

 

I wouldn't use the foam in kit that joins heater box to fire wall. It's too thin compared to original.

 

Marty

Thanks Marty- what adhesive did you use to stick foam to radiator etc

[sibhs]

Thanks Marty- what adhesive did you use to stick foam to radiator etc

Contact adhesive

 

Started stripping the steering column down and have found a few things that need fixing.

Upper bearing seems good, just needs a new 'o' ring. Lower nylon bushes seem ok too.

 

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One of the inner fixing tabs has completely broken off, I hope to make another and glue it in position.

 

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A bit of rust to remove so soaked them in rust remover.

 

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Gave these bits a rust blast.

 

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This bit is stuffed, cracked screw holes, big chunk of plastic missing and one of the terminals on the harness is broken. I'll be looking for another one of these.

 

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Marty

[Shiney005]

This is better than a Haynes manual. When are you starting the LH restoration Marty?

[sibhs]

Roof lining is coming along slowly, I'ts been 4 weeks since I first fitted it. Takes a bit of mucking around, I took it down after a week and adjusted to bow wires, the canvas was getting caught on the wires or roof. Slit the ends of the canvas loops to get a better fit. If the canvas gets caught it pulls on the seams and can cause bows to flip.

 

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Be confident it's in the right place before cutting and only cut small bits at a time. Roof lining should have a centre mark front and back and use that to line up with centre of screen openings.

 

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Fitting the screws first, easier to find a screw rather than a hole.

 

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Heat gun helps in the weird corners, material goes soft and pliable.

 

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After fitting the stainless trim tops I had to try the door skins. Also fitted the pinch welds to see how it pulls in on the lining.

 

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Still got a few creases to get rid of. I'll remove pinchweld and use heat gun to pull tight.

 

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Marty

 

[Indy Orange]

It’s going to so nice ,Marty.

[claysummers]

Very nice job. You’re a brave man.


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[Heath]

This trim and paint colour combo is to die for.

[claysummers]

Back in the day wife’s cousin, newly ordained Catholic priest. His family bought him a brand new Charger in gratitude for giving his life to the church. It was purple with white vinyl roof and interior.


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[sibhs]

I'm struggling with the last of the creases at back of the roof lining so getting frustrated and leaving that for another week or two.

Time to start the second K-Frame strip down after the first one was bent. 

 

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This time I'm going to make a spring compressor, think this was from Robs thread.

 

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This K-Frame has damage at the bump stop but hopefully I can fix it.

 

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These bushes were a real struggle to work out how to get out.

 

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Marty

[Rockoz]

Used to just bash those bushes through with a nut on the end to prevent thread damage.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[IanC]

This is what I bought. Worked awesome."10pc Ball Joint Press Service Kit Remover Separator Adaptor 4x4 Garage Tool | eBay" https://www.ebay.com...5IaAqWfEALw_wcB

[grumpy xu1]

Who's door trims are they Marty ?

[sibhs]

Used to just bash those bushes through with a nut on the end to prevent thread damage.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

I tried many different ways, each getting them out a little more.

 

This is what I bought. Worked awesome."10pc Ball Joint Press Service Kit Remover Separator Adaptor 4x4 Garage Tool | eBay" https://www.ebay.com...5IaAqWfEALw_wcB

That looks the goods. Might have to get that. Thanks Ian

 

Who's door trims are they Marty ?

They're from Cools Auto Trim.

[grumpy xu1]

Okay, thanks Marty.

[IanC]

Marty. I did have to modify the clamp a little. Cheers mate. https://photos.app.g...hQLJN5L9iRT6qEA

[sibhs]

I've had a set-back with the engine. A quick re-cap.

I took a 300km round trip to purchase a fully re-cond 173 with a CD prefix. Paid $1500 and it came with receipts for about $4000.

The guy I bought it off had purchased a HR which came with this engine and he wanted to fit a bigger motor so had no need for it.

 

I took the engine to my engine builder to check it over, see if the cam is suitable etc. The head was low comp and needed to be high comp for my car. The block looked all good at this stage and it sat in his workshop for over a year. As I started to push for it to be finished he pulled it apart and found it was bored to 186 and had heli-coils fitted for three head bolts and they were crooked. He recommended we find another block. This motor was defiantly recond but buy a shonky builder.

 

He then managed to source another 173 Q motor which had standard pistons but on measuring he realised they were 179 standard so this block was no good either.

 

So I'm on the hunt for a Perth 173 block which hasn't been bored out too much. I think 40thou would be fine for me to go to 60thou.Not too fussed about the engine prefix but would prefer it be a pre 74 so it has the neoprene rear mains seal then I can use the good crank I have.

 

A bit of a kick in the guts but this is all part of playing with these old cars.

 

Marty

[Ice]

Hey Marty Im going to see a mate of mine tomorrow he has a few engines i will look to see if he has one spare 

Not sure if he has a 173 though you but never know 

cheers G 

[bat 53]

i have one ,it's a 73 

has been bored no markings for how much 

yours if you want it 

[LJ RB30]

Think I've got a couple in the shed. Will go & see what bore they are shortly

[LJ RB30]

Only have 1 but its a rope seal.

Standard bore, been refreshed at some stage going by the extra stamps on the pad, bearings look like its done very little work.

Cast date pic not great but it's 22K4.

Can barely feel the step at the top of the bore, it would hone out if you really wanted too.

Still has fiber cam gear 

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