984 replies to this topic

[Ice]

Yes but does your horn work Marty
✌️

[sibhs]

Some times I think I'm retarded!  

Again I'm mucking about with a patch repair panel that I knew didn't fit. I went through all this with the LJ and didn't learn my lesson. I'm talking about the passenger outer sill, cutting it to fit and making the sill end is heaps of work that needn't be done due to full sill panels being available. I was just being a tight arse and trying to save $400.

 

Heres some of the days of mucking about that I've done and still not happy.

 

 IMG_0753.jpeg   71.96K   13 downloads

 

 IMG_0760.jpeg   186.07K   13 downloads

 

 IMG_0761.jpeg   268.87K   12 downloads

 

 IMG_0767.jpeg   156.97K   14 downloads

 

 IMG_0769.jpeg   152.42K   11 downloads

 

 IMG_0819.jpeg   116.31K   11 downloads

 

 IMG_0846.jpeg   85.37K   11 downloads

 

 IMG_0853.jpeg   218.13K   13 downloads

 

 IMG_0854.jpeg   166.38K   11 downloads

 

The real shitfight has happened after this bit as I try and line up the bottom lower guard. It has got a bit depressing so I've stopped work on this side, bought the full sill for drivers side and getting stuck into that. 

[sibhs]

 IMG_0849.jpeg   138.7K   9 downloads

 

 IMG_0855.jpeg   183.88K   9 downloads

 

I've also had to cut the lower guard bit to fit. I've changed the shape by trying to improve lines and curves but mucking it up at the same time.

 

 IMG_0750.jpeg   79.96K   11 downloads

 

Pulled a crease out at the rear of sill. Really enjoying this stud welder.

 IMG_0763.jpeg   105.02K   8 downloads

 

Sort of getting there but have stopped work on this side for now. I may cut it all off and start again.  IMG_0857.jpeg   176.49K   11 downloads

 

Marty

[sibhs]

Also got the passenger floor fitted. Happy with this but another retard moment. This is my third floor pan I've fitted and every time I trim this corner too short. Here I've had to do some bridging welds to fill gap.

 

 IMG_0817.jpeg   121.91K   9 downloads

 

 IMG_0818.jpeg   149.65K   11 downloads

 

Also cutting off the overlaps in the repair panel to hide the fact it is a Rares repair panel

 IMG_0832.jpeg   112.67K   9 downloads

 

 IMG_0834.jpeg   149.03K   9 downloads

 

 IMG_0835.jpeg   103.79K   8 downloads

 

 

[rodomo]

I made that bit square on the end rather than original so I can push a bit if seam sealer into it after the guard is on...……...but mine is only an S

 

 

 

Attached Files

•  P1010006.JPG   157.72K   13 downloads

[sibhs]

How much easier is it fitting full panels that are made well. I love this repair panel. Well worth the $300. Don't be a tight arse - buy it.

 

 IMG_0920.jpeg   193.4K   11 downloads

 

 IMG_0923.jpeg   110.48K   10 downloads

 

 IMG_0924.jpeg   87.8K   11 downloads

 

 IMG_0926.jpeg   147.01K   11 downloads

 

 IMG_0929.jpeg   163.25K   12 downloads

 

Marty

[claysummers]

It’s a hard call sometimes, and depends how you value your time. Is it labour or leisure what you are doing?

Very happy result with the driver side sill panel. Yes you paid the extra dollars but don’t discount your skill, oh and luck!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[sibhs]

I made that bit square on the end rather than original so I can push a bit if seam sealer into it after the guard is on...……...but mine is only an S

Still looks good Rob.

 

It’s a hard call sometimes, and depends how you value your time. Is it labour or leisure what you are doing?

Very happy result with the driver side sill panel. Yes you paid the extra dollars but don’t discount your skill, oh and luck!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

This has always been a leisure build so time is not an issue. If you did this for an hourly rate you have to use good full panels for client value. But I have found there's a limit between enjoying the build and wanting to burn it! This panel is my saviour.

 

Hi Marty coming along great mate and yes the aftermarket sills are the go mate I have not turned back since I started using them, for the amount of hours you will put into making them anyway. As to the gaping and bridging next time your at a welding supply shop grab yourself some Tig wire it comes in different thicknesses perfect for them jobs.

 

Cheers gong 

Hi John, thanks for the tip! I have some tig wire which I'll use when adjusting panel gaps etc. 

Cheers

Marty

[sibhs]

Rebuilt the shifter on the week-end. This took a couple of attempts and is like a chinese puzzle.

 IMG_0870.jpeg   111.04K   14 downloads

 

Painted the drive shaft hanging it on the washing line.

 IMG_0860.jpeg   278.74K   14 downloads

 

 IMG_0863.jpeg   267.18K   15 downloads

 

Tested the wiper washer. At first it wouldn't work but pulled it apart and freed the valves by gentle pushing them with stud. All good now.

 IMG_0880.jpeg   191.55K   11 downloads

 

 IMG_0881.jpeg   161.18K   12 downloads

 

 IMG_0882.jpeg   153.72K   12 downloads

 

Cleaned up the brake light switch and tested.

 IMG_0886.jpeg   227.61K   13 downloads

 

Marty

[claysummers]

That red paint should be worth a couple of ponies


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[sibhs]

That red paint should be worth a couple of ponies


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I've no Idea what that means Clay?

 

I took a big step last week and welded the windscreen cowl on. I'd been waiting until I had the bonnet and hinges that are going on the car. So with my third bonnet and a brand new set of hinges (modified Rare Spares) fitted it was time to get all the guards on and confirm cowl was in the correct spot.

I had to pull the centre of cowl toward the back of the car to even up the gap then get welding.

It was pretty dirty under there.

 

 IMG_0949.jpeg   134.16K   17 downloads

 

All cleaned up

 

 IMG_0953.jpeg   200.86K   13 downloads

 

 

I tried Johns tip on using wire to fill a gap. Thanks Mr Gong.

 

 IMG_0955.jpeg   127.41K   10 downloads

 

 IMG_0956.jpeg   204.75K   12 downloads

 

Before plug welding I run the spot weld drill over the copper coat to give me fresh metal.

 

 IMG_0958.jpeg   253.56K   12 downloads

 

 IMG_0962.jpeg   137.91K   12 downloads

 

It's so close to welding the guards on but so far. I'm not 100% happy with fitment so I've moved on to other areas of rust and will leave the guards til later.

 

 IMG_0968.jpeg   159.47K   10 downloads

 

 IMG_0969.jpeg   168.09K   10 downloads

 

 IMG_0970.jpeg   166K   9 downloads

 

Marty

[claysummers]

“That red paint should add a few ponies”
Back in my day we would paint bits of driveline red to give a perceived hot up. Eg brake drums, rims, rear axle, tail shaft.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[claysummers]

Very inspiring the way you go about the body work Marty


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Indy Orange]

Great work Marty,better than new when finished!

[Rockoz]

If you are drilling down to fresh metal for the welds, why not use KBS or POR to paint it instead of the coppercoat?

Both of them offer far better rust protection for the rest of the areas.

When hot they tend to melt a bit before they burn off, so with quick welds, you would get better rust protection in the future perhaps?

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[sibhs]

Very inspiring the way you go about the body work Marty


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks Clay

“That red paint should add a few ponies”
Back in my day we would paint bits of driveline red to give a perceived hot up. Eg brake drums, rims, rear axle, tail shaft.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Now I get it.  This is just painting it to look original though.

 

Great work Marty,better than new when finished!

Lets hope so, Thank-fully I don't think Holden set the bar to high.

 

If you are drilling down to fresh metal for the welds, why not use KBS or POR to paint it instead of the coppercoat?

Both of them offer far better rust protection for the rest of the areas.

When hot they tend to melt a bit before they burn off, so with quick welds, you would get better rust protection in the future perhaps?

 

Cheers

 

Rob

Thanks for your input Rob.

I hate welding anywhere near KBS, it stinks, pops and farts and I don't think it has any rust protection once it's been fried. Even the copper coat piss farts around when welded over so I think clean metal at the welds gives a cleaner, stronger weld.  

The key to rust protection IMO is covering the whole car in KBS Rust Blast inside and out on a rotisserie leaving a zinc rich coating. Once dry paint well into the cavities then when still on rotisserie flood cavities with cavity wax and spin the car. 

Then don't get the car wet! This system has worked amazingly on the LJ's 6.5 year old paint.

 

Marty

[sibhs]

Finally got the console together. A friend insisted I get a genuine centre console rather than the Rare version which is not a good copy.  So I grabbed a second hand model that had a good base, cleaned it up and then gave it a coat of Auto Glym.

 

I purchased the trim and boot from Rares as they're good, then fitted. Hardest part was removing some of the old ferrules.

Firstly I tested the screw holes to the body holes, they didn't line-up which is weird because holes in body looked genuine. Not sure if the Opal centre console is different to all aussie for fixing holes?

 

 IMG_0932.jpeg   124.25K   12 downloads

 

 IMG_0284.jpeg   189.45K   9 downloads

 

 IMG_0286.jpeg   179.32K   9 downloads

 

 IMG_0285.jpeg   175.34K   8 downloads

 

 IMG_0985.jpeg   167.37K   7 downloads

 

 IMG_0984.jpeg   131.8K   8 downloads

 

 IMG_0987.jpeg   165.46K   8 downloads

 

 IMG_0992.jpeg   119.47K   8 downloads

 

 IMG_0993.jpeg   142.47K   7 downloads

 

Marty

[S pack]

Nice job Marty. That console cleaned up well. Trim those metal studs off on the vinyl gear stick gaiter mount flush with the retaining nuts.. They will chew the crap out of your lower rubber shift boot if you leave them as they are.

Edited by S pack, 17 May 2020 - 09:53 PM.

[sibhs]

Nice job Marty. That console cleaned up well. Trim those metal studs off on the vinyl gear stick gaiter mount flush with the retaining nuts.. They will chew the crap out of your lower rubber shift boot if you leave them as they are.

Thanks Dave, never thought of that - You're a genius

[71xu1]

Yes Opel console is different not just the mounting holes, different outer surround , different construction/texture and different shifter surround. I can post a pic if you like.

[Indy Orange]

Like this.Its an Opel one.

Attached Files

•  image.jpeg   98.57K   11 downloads

Edited by Indy Orange, 18 May 2020 - 12:46 AM.

[sibhs]

Thanks guys, that's a relief. I'll weld up holes and re drill at a later date. 

 

Marty

[grumpy xu1]

If you haven't got original console screws and washers Marty, i keep them in stock, as a matter of fact, i have a lot of factory style screws on hand. Just let me know if you need any. Gary.

[sibhs]

If you haven't got original console screws and washers Marty, i keep them in stock, as a matter of fact, i have a lot of factory style screws on hand. Just let me know if you need any. Gary.

Thanks Gary, I'll text you soon.

 

Just received the last bits for the seat tilt mechanism. I got new plastic spacers and a couple more bits from the zincer.

It took about three goes and the manual and checking the LJ to get it right.  I think it's right. Used my brand new tool kit so not to get any grease on seats.

 

 IMG_1038.jpeg   177.33K   13 downloads

 

Marty