43 replies to this topic

[Big_Red]

Hi guys, father & son project here. The car has spent most of its life in the area. We know the history of the car back to almost new. I had actually spotted the car around 15years ago as a teen and thought it was a tough car.

Anyway, currently undergoing a full rotisserie resto. The car has almost no rust as it has been garaged most of its life. Floor pans are 100% intact! Came with a bit of a grumpy 308 the previous owner built. Yet to decide on a transmission and diff.

The day we picked the old girl up






The old boy sand blasted the engine bay.



Up on the rotisserie and the sill getting a skim of filler.

Edited by Big_Red, 02 November 2019 - 07:49 PM.

[Shiney005]

Wow Aaron. What a body. This obviously isn't the first time your car has been through the panel and paint routine, but it is always a good feeling when you pull the bonnet hinges off and there is no rust behind them. Radiator support panel looks pretty good too.

Everybody loves a G-Pak in here so keep the thread updated with pics so we can see how it all goes.

[Big_Red]

Wow Aaron. What a body. This obviously isn't the first time your car has been through the panel and paint routine, but it is always a good feeling when you pull the bonnet hinges off and there is no rust behind them. Radiator support panel looks pretty good too.
Everybody loves a G-Pak in here so keep the thread updated with pics so we can see how it all goes.

It has had a squirt of jam before but it's never been restored as such. The striping has a paint edge to it, so the stripes actually appear original paint. Lower radiator support was rusted and we have already replaced that. Also the bever panel at the back as they all do, but that's really it for rust in the body. So much nicer doing a car that has never had the rust in it to start with! Definitely worth spending the extra upfront to get a good one.

Will update as things progress. Currently in talks with the old boy about doing the chassis rail extensions. I'm keen but he isn't, he says it's extra work and they didn't come with them from factory. Plus it makes headaches for the fuel and brake lines. So we will see.

[Rockoz]

As for transmission, only a manual will do.

A nice car should have 3 pedals, or in the case of the Torana, if you add the park brake, 4 pedals.

My preference even for an everyday driver is manual.

But sometimes I drive autos because that was what was available at the time.

 

Build looks good so far.

 

Will be keeping an eye on this thread for sure.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[Heath]

As above, the 4 pedal variant is really the go.

I've done the chassis rail extensions but haven't driven it. It is an issue for some plumbing, but apparently the difference is quite pronounced.

Keeping the stripes I hope? What are you going to do where the fake injector hat was?

Edited by Heath, 04 November 2019 - 02:35 PM.

[Big_Red]

As above, the 4 pedal variant is really the go.

I've done the chassis rail extensions but haven't driven it. It is an issue for some plumbing, but apparently the difference is quite pronounced.

Keeping the stripes I hope? What are you going to do where the fake injector hat was?

Will likely end up with either a supra box or t5. 5speed should be a bit more street friendly and a bit nicer to shift.

Yep, will stay with the g-pak stripes. While it maybe worth more with SLR signage, it's not a SLR and neither of us are keen on a misrepresented car. Plus how often do you see these anymore.

The bug catcher may stay. They look kinda tough and dad likes it. I think the hole is too large to cover with a a9x scoop. I prefer the hillborn style personally but it's only half my car. We do have a spare mint condition bonnet if we decide to do something else.

[Big_Red]

Engine bay all done in the first lot of primer.


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[Big_Red]

As for transmission, only a manual will do.
A nice car should have 3 pedals, or in the case of the Torana, if you add the park brake, 4 pedals.
My preference even for an everyday driver is manual.
But sometimes I drive autos because that was what was available at the time.

Build looks good so far.

Will be keeping an eye on this thread for sure.

Cheers

Rob

I think if it was the bigger body holden I'd go auto for sure. But the torana is maybe a bit corner friendly then say a HQ.

Edited by Big_Red, 05 November 2019 - 04:14 PM.

[yel327]

Not really. LH’s are just as bad as HQ’s! Standard anyway. The fastest of the Touring car Masters series around Bathurst until Steven Johnson went faster in Mustang Sally was a HQ and then bettered by John Bowe in an LH, so both can be made to steer and corner well. Bowe’s current record in an LH in 2017 is right up there with the best of pre-Chase GroupC and better than any pre-Chase GroupA. The HQ record set in 2012 was faster than a lot of GroupC too. It is the same lap time as Dick Johnson’s fastest race lap in 1980 and just slower than Brock’s race record lap in 1979. I know the technology is slightly different to the GroupC cars but the suspension isn’t that different, plus the track is longer now.

Bowe 2017: 2:17.4462
Brock 1984: 2:15.13
Grice 1986: 2:18.99
Jason Richards 2011: 2:22.6622

Sorry for the sidetrack! Great work on the LH by the way. I actually like the look of an LH Gpack better than a standard LH SLR.

[Big_Red]

Probably not as much weight difference as I'd think. Just seems dimensionally a much smaller car. I guess lao times done lie. Just always thought of the big brother as more of a comfort/crusier.

Just about finished up the engine build on my sisters car. Classic gc8 shape WRX with a ej20/25 hybrid. Then I'll be getting into some of the mechanicals. Have a rebuild kit for the front end.

[Big_Red]

Pulled down the front end which appeared to be almost all original except for HQ brake/hub swap. All the bushings where ofcorse all worn.



It still had the original shocks which feel to be in working order still.




Pulled down the rack as well. Not too bad considering both boots where torn and not much lube inside.




Pinion bearings had some corrosion, probably why it felt a bit gravely to turn by hand.

[yel327]

You can get those shocks rebuilt. I got some paint mixed recently matched to the original green as I’m getting the HJ Prem’s original shocks rebuilt.

[Shtstr]

If anyone looks under my LC gtr they will find the origanly factory shocks that have been rebuilt to my specks with oil and valveing re set. Nothing wrong with them at all.

[claysummers]

What sort of price to get the shocks rebuilt fellas?

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Sorry for the hijack red

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[yel327]

I have it written down, will post up cost and where tomorrow. You can rebuild them to whatever valving you like.

[Big_Red]

All good, have me intrigued now! We where just going to go for koni reds all round with lowered springs.

I received a message from a member enquiring if I would sell the old shocks, I honestly didn't think anyone would want them. Didn't know they where rebuild able either.

[yel327]

SG Leslie & Sons in Heidelberg West. I was quoted $440 a pair. You end up with brand new Monroe shocks inside the old cases. Not everyone's cup of tea, if you don't want originality then find some old Monroe GT-40 oil shocks and get those rebuilt. They are a bigger bore.

 

I bought Koni oil rears for my HK as I'm running a Rodtech front end with coil-overs, but the Premier is a Survivor so getting originals rebuilt.

[claysummers]

Good to know thanks


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[Big_Red]

Finished reco'ing the rack today. Hopefully will do the job. Found that the restocounty rack boots seemed to be a bit thicker rubber, so got some longer M3 stainless machine screws from Bunnings. Cleaned it all down, replaced the pinion bearings, set the preload, set the the rod preload, new boots and rod ends, filled with oil and done!

Edited by Big_Red, 02 January 2020 - 08:20 PM.

[Big_Red]

Front brakes are pretty much sorted. Test fitted to ensure there is plenty of clearance with 15" wheels. PBR twin pot calipers with 286mm disks.

[Big_Red]

Front end all freshened up with new bushings, ball joints etc. Freshly painted in a glossy chassis black.

[Shiney005]

Are those calipers VT Commodore?

[yel327]

AUII onwards calipers?

[Big_Red]

Are those calipers VT Commodore?

Pbr au2/3 2pot calipers. More or less the same as Commodore of the same era. Disks are actually BA falcon milled down from 298mm to 286mm and redrilled to HQ. Just have to figure some brake lines at some stage.

[yel327]

Same setup as my Rodtech front end in my HK except rotors original. Not easy to fit 15” rims, so far only Pontiac 15x6 RallyeII fit and only some of those.