386 replies to this topic

[Rockoz]

I always believed that you needed to keep braided or any flexible lines to an absolute minimum due to them wanting to straighten themsleves out under pressure, and more likely to balloon a bit, leading to a soft pedal feel.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

Edited by Rockoz, 24 July 2020 - 11:56 AM.

[Shtstr]

I always believed that you needed to keep braided or any flexible lines to an absolute minimum due to them wanting to straighten themsleves out under pressure, and more likely to balloon a bit, leading to a soft pedal feel.
 
Cheers
 
Rob

Never heard that before but makes sense.

[Lima31]

I always believed that you needed to keep braided or any flexible lines to an absolute minimum due to them wanting to straighten themsleves out under pressure, and more likely to balloon a bit, leading to a soft pedal feel.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

 

So long as you are not bending the hose more than the manufacturer specification, this is actually not something to worry about, it is relatively low force.  The pressure acts the same in all directions so the circumferential (hoop) stress in the pipe is dominant. 

[Rockoz]

So long as you are not bending the hose more than the manufacturer specification, this is actually not something to worry about, it is relatively low force.  The pressure acts the same in all directions so the circumferential (hoop) stress in the pipe is dominant. 

Physics says different. Ever tried to move a hose under pressure, then again without pressure?

The equal force actually means that it will attempt to straighten itself. The pressure will try to even out between the inside and outside circumference, thus causing a straightening motion.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[Shtstr]

Have decided to just run hard lines. Can't justify the price of the braided ones when I can make the hard line ones myself. Ooh well.may be down the track.

[Lima31]

Physics says different. Ever tried to move a hose under pressure, then again without pressure?

The equal force actually means that it will attempt to straighten itself. The pressure will try to even out between the inside and outside circumference, thus causing a straightening motion.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

 

Yes it will attempt to straighten itself but as I wrote, it is a relatively low force compared to the hoop stress.   Consider flexible fire hoses, they run around 15 bar mains pressure (~200+ psi), running from appliance to building or a closed nozzle, they sit still when pressurised even though they are definitely bent or looped, plenty of videos out there.  It moves around only when they open the valve and the mass of the water flowing is then a factor.

Edited by Lima31, 30 July 2020 - 10:39 AM.

[Rockoz]

Ive spent a lot of time running fire hoses and hanging onto the end of them.

There is a minimum circumference that they will sit at provided they arent disturbed.

Brake lines wont have the friction effect of the ground to help them stay in place.

That is what lets them sit on the ground curved. Friction from the ground.

Thats the physics part.

Move them a little and they want to straighten out until friction helps hold them.

 

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[Shtstr]

I was just going to put them in retainer clips. To stop the rubbing on the paintwork

[Shtstr]

As everything goes in this build time frame and budget is out the window. Especially when you have to wait for special parts to arrive from overseas.

[Shiney005]

That is 90% of old car builds. 

[Shtstr]

Yep. But like everything I do is different to the normal run of the mill stuff.
Worked out how to make a massive 6.3 rod fit in the engine so waiting for the parts to arrive from the usa now.

[Shtstr]

Made up the ABS and cruise control bracket mount today. Thought I better do something on it.
Haven't done anything for a while.

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[Ice]

You got more patience than anyone i know Dave
cant wait to see it done

[Shiney005]

Look after that ABS module. After having owned a few 2000's Commodores, that is the one item that always seems to shit itself and I haven't found anyone who can repair them.

[Shtstr]

Look after that ABS module. After having owned a few 2000's Commodores, that is the one item that always seems to shit itself and I haven't found anyone who can repair them.

Few people reco them now. Can still buy them from Holden $478 new. I have to get this one done.
They go to sleep with a flat battery in the car apparently so I've found out.

[Shtstr]

Well had a meeting with the GM of Fulcrum suspension on Thursday last week and very pleased with how it went.
When I'm ready to take the car in it will receive a custom made set of front struts in any brand I want.
In the mean time I've started collecting parts for the engine.
Forged lumpy top pistons comp star con rods holley inlet manifold and fuel rails holley 1000cc throttle body and nice little comp cams cam that was selected to suit the new compression ratio of 12 to 1.
Will hopefully get the exhaust system finally finished this week and get the rear tail shaft made to suit.

[Shtstr]

New piston and cam feeling.
Forged pistons to suit the 6.3" rods with lumpy top to jump the comp ratio to 12 to 1. Should have a nice crackle.

New piston and cam feeling.
Forged pistons to suit the 6.3" rods with lumpy top to jump the comp ratio to 12 to 1. Should have a nice crackle.

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•  20200905_220211.jpg   121.13K   12 downloads

[Shtstr]

Had a chat with Hardie Splicer today and they are working out how to make it as it is only 1080mm long and needs to include a slip yoke.

[rodomo]

There is some sorta formula those joints work by. When I had mine done it was to do with revs and length. I think the shorter it is the better.

[Shtstr]

There is some sorta formula those joints work by. When I had mine done it was to do with revs and length. I think the shorter it is the better.

Yes shorter and larger diameter is best possible setup. Has to run at around 4 deg sitting still too from memory so when you take off and are under braking it doesn't go past 7 degrees as the uni joins don't like it and run a high chance of breaking.

[Shtstr]

Well my supper long 6.3" con rods arrived today.
Gives me a rod ratio of 1.74 right in that sweet spot to turn some high rpm and keep it reliable.
Big rod for a ls1🤣🤣

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•  20200917_092547.jpg   128.59K   14 downloads

[Shtstr]

Well a big shout out to McDonald Brothers racing for supplying the adjustable rear control arms to set the diff at the perfect angle. Another peice of the puzzle down. Tail shaft should be done in the next few days to from Hardy Splicer.
Cheers boy.

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[Shtstr]

The missing link has arrived.

Measures a whopping 1115mm long installed

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[Shiney005]

Is that a CV joint at the gearbox end? I thought you were getting away from a centre bearing.

[Shtstr]

Is that a CV joint at the gearbox end? I thought you were getting away from a centre bearing.

No center bearing. That CV is at the diff end to match the diff flange bolt pattern.