386 replies to this topic

[rodomo]

Should be reasonably quiet if running cats

[myss427]

Should be reasonably quiet if running cats

 

Don't know about that, with intended 650 engine horse power might be a tad loud without a proper muffler. I have 4 large mufflers on mine and its still way loud.

[Shtstr]

Don't know about that, with intended 650 engine horse power might be a tad loud without a proper muffler. I have 4 large mufflers on mine and its still way loud.

Yer that is flywheel hp not rwhp. Only about 400rwhp but we will see down the track I guess.

Gotta love that new brake feeling.
Rebuilt calipers and new pads. Just have to find some new rotors now for the front.

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[Shtstr]

Had to come up with a way to join the aftermarket brake booster to the pedal.
So came up with the idea to cut the rod off the back of the Adventra brake booster to the desired length and then machine it down on one end in a lathe to put a thread on it. This way I can use a connector nut to thread the booster push rod to the original booster rod to the correct length and lock it up with a lock nut.
I also added 2 spot welds on the connector nut to ensure that it will never come loose.

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[Shtstr]

Well after a lot of research I've found out that the 3 core v8 and the 3 core 6 cylinder adrad copper radiators have the same amount of tubes.
So the cooling capacity is exactly the same. Only difference is the location of the hoses.
So I'm going with a 3 core 6 cylinder rad in copper.
It allows me to do away with the cross over pipe infront of the ls engine.
So I will have plenty of room for fans.
Will try and retrofit the adventra ones after a bit of trimming.

[Shiney005]

Are they much more expensive than aluminium?

[Shtstr]

Are they much more expensive than aluminium?

Copper one is less than half the price of the Alloy ones at $600.

Got the new rad today and won't take much to make the ls twin fans fit.

[Shtstr]

Well I trimmed up the ls thurmo fans and fitted them to the torana radiator.
Had to drill a hole for the top radiator hose trimmed the lips around the side and bottom as highlighted and around the radiator filler neck.
Drilled 4 bolt holes and bolted it up.
Has plenty of clearance all round.
Closest part of the fans is still the thickness of my finger away from the fan shroud.
I deleted the adventra bottom cross over pipe so it no has bottom driver's side hose and passenger side top hose.
Best part is it will plug straight up to the factory adventra harness and work perfectly.

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[Shtstr]

Bottom crossover pipe now removed.

All bolted in now to find some hoses to work.

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[Shtstr]

Bolted ecu in today.
Shit idea of Holden to have the ls ecu in the engine bay but I guess it is what it is.

[Shtstr]

Bought a universal air condenser for the air con as the vy one was way too tall at over 400mm.
New one is 580x305mm

Made up some mounting brackets that bolted to the radiator bolts so they are bolted together but about 25mm apart.
Made the brackets out of 40x40x3 equal angle.
Trimmed a section out of each one so it doesn't stop air flow.
In the adventra the thermo fans are 2 stage for cooling ac and the radiator/engine.
Will use lock nuts on final assembly to stop them coming loose.

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[Shiney005]

You will want to hope nothing comes loose with those tamper proof Torx bolts. Otherwise a fix on the side of the road could be difficult.

[RallyRed]

Ive been slowly setting myself up to make stand alone LS1 harnesses.
All brand new plugs and wire, with the ability to provide it with any extra length for custom installs.
Not interested in anything to do with the electronic autos at this stage, and can set them up for MAF or MAFLESS as I go.

Not sure if there would be any market for something like that though.
Will see what happens down the track I guess.

Cheers

Rob

Hi,
We have a LS2 VE with a relocated "fuse box" ( still within the engine bay).
Have pondered glove box / boot relocation, but wondered about any issues with voltage drop on the 5v sensor circuits?.
From memory there are 3 x 96 pin plug/ sockets in the fusebox / ECU harness area.
Assume input impedence to be very high, so voltage drop not an issue?
Never looked at it closely...thoughts?
ta

Edited by RallyRed, 13 November 2020 - 02:53 PM.

[Shtstr]

You will want to hope nothing comes loose with those tamper proof Torx bolts. Otherwise a fix on the side of the road could be difficult.

On final assembly they will be fitted with nylock nuts.

[Rockoz]

The sensors drag very little current, so voltage drop isnt really an issue.

On my truck, I will be adding more than 2 metres to the bulk of the harness.

The main harness will go to the engine from the front instead of the rear, and I will be mounting the ECU in front of the front wheel up near the step to get in.

Reasonably dry place, but will be mounting splash trays around it.

Most of the 5v stuff will still work over a reasonable range anyway.

Im surprised thought that the injectors and coil packs have a rather small diameter wire feeding the common.

Its 3mm auto, which is about 1.5mm2 from memory. Its good for 15 amps, so I guess it isnt an issue in the scheme of things.

The 5 volt sensor supply can source a reasonable amount of current before it gets unstable.

On my Harley I had the speed sensor short out. The other sensors still worked, kind of. 

I replace just about every sensor on the Harley till I got it running right.

Turns out the crank sensor was a problem. It was giving intermittent signals.

Unless it fails completely, the ECU keeps believing the signals it sends.

Was almost like riding a bucking bull at times.

But I do digress.

 

The 5 volt sensors would likely only drag milliamps.

I didnt get around to checking them.

But similar sensors in industrial applications work on a 4 to 20 mA range

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[Shtstr]

Fitted the ac condenser.
Had to use a universal condenser instead of the vy adventra one.
Made some brackets out of 40x40x3 equal angle.
Bolts to the same bolts that hold the radiator in.
Now to shape the ends of the brackets now and then decide whether to powder coat or paint in 2k.
Now have to wait for the ac man to be able to come and quote on the lines to hook it all together.

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[Shtstr]

The nuts will be replaced with nylon lock nuts on final assembly so they don't come loose

[Rockoz]

You can buy the lines and knock them up yourself.

You can also buy the gas from Bursons, and likely other places to charge it up.

A Man's ToolShed was also advertising it.

It is hydrocarbon based, so you dont need a fridgie ticket to buy it.

And it works really well.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[Shtstr]

Do you know if they have the fittings too.

[RallyRed]

The sensors drag very little current, so voltage drop isnt really an issue.

On my truck, I will be adding more than 2 metres to the bulk of the harness.

The main harness will go to the engine from the front instead of the rear, and I will be mounting the ECU in front of the front wheel up near the step to get in.

Reasonably dry place, but will be mounting splash trays around it.

Most of the 5v stuff will still work over a reasonable range anyway.

Im surprised thought that the injectors and coil packs have a rather small diameter wire feeding the common.

Its 3mm auto, which is about 1.5mm2 from memory. Its good for 15 amps, so I guess it isnt an issue in the scheme of things.

The 5 volt sensor supply can source a reasonable amount of current before it gets unstable.

On my Harley I had the speed sensor short out. The other sensors still worked, kind of. 

I replace just about every sensor on the Harley till I got it running right.

Turns out the crank sensor was a problem. It was giving intermittent signals.

Unless it fails completely, the ECU keeps believing the signals it sends.

Was almost like riding a bucking bull at times.

But I do digress.

 

The 5 volt sensors would likely only drag milliamps.

I didnt get around to checking them.

But similar sensors in industrial applications work on a 4 to 20 mA range

 

Cheers

 

Rob

Ta Rob...all what I was thinking, so good confirmation.  

4-20ma industrial sensors are current loop type, as opposed to voltage type, so prob.  a little different.

I guess when we had a short on an oil pressure switch ( brand new, OEM part) it just happened to be on a S/C proof supply, thus it dropped the 5v reference supply to 2.2volts, thus sending all the sensors on that particular power supply  into a tizz, & reporting stupid values to ECU.

Of course that's opposite to a long cable run, but still something to ponder.

Sorry for getting off track of thread.

[Rockoz]

I left out that the Harley 5V line did drop to about 2.7V.

 

Sensors are sensors.

They may come in a different package for a different application, but the internals are the same.

The car ECU is not a lot different in basic principles than a PLC, except that the user cant change the programming so easily.

They all work on some form of ladder logic that electricians are used to, but you wont find the ladder info so easily.

A lot of computerised stuff is still running with an Intel 8080 heart.

The 8080 was the forerunner to the 8086, which was superseded by the 186, then the 286, the 386 and I think the 486.

You probably recognise those numbers from PC's.

I was working with the 8080 and 8086 in 1978. 

Thats how old the stuff is.

 

But I do digress once more.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[Shtstr]

Can you please start ya own thread for that stuff please.

[Rockoz]

My apologies

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[Shtstr]

Well my part of the ac lines is just about finished now.
Just the connection between the lines and pump and TX valve to lines.

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[Shtstr]

Forgot to add the photo of where it goes into the TX valve.

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