How many cars does your brother own? I count about 9 roller doors there!
haha
He lives in a block of townhouses and all the garages are in a laneway at the rear, I never thought of it but now you mention... it does look a bit strange
Posted 25 November 2024 - 04:42 PM
How many cars does your brother own? I count about 9 roller doors there!
haha
He lives in a block of townhouses and all the garages are in a laneway at the rear, I never thought of it but now you mention... it does look a bit strange
Posted 26 November 2024 - 03:35 PM
I wouldn't have started with the alternator either.
Posted 02 December 2024 - 12:03 PM
Got the Dash Fascia and Gauges wired up and in the car, I've also installed a switch panel where the heater control used to be, this turns on the front windscreen heater/blower, rear demist, boot release and under dash footwell lights.
I still need to wire up some of the sender units and signal inputs for Vehicle speed, oil press, temp, tacho. So far the gauges all seem to work nicely.
I'll need to calibrate the speedo too which will be interesting to see how that goes.
Posted 02 December 2024 - 10:19 PM
Tonight I wired up the Tacho and fitted my Period correct Tape Deck which won't actually be used, I've got some other idea's for my Stereo which will be revealed some time next year because it's not a priority right now..
I've also put a closer pic of my switch panel so you guys can see how neat it came up. Ignore the missing lower dash, it's coming soon!
Posted 03 December 2024 - 09:19 AM
How does that conduit go for the speaker wires in to doors? I would have thought it would kink?
Posted 03 December 2024 - 03:34 PM
Laurie - for all 4 doors I've routed it so that the exit hole on the pillar is about 3 inches forward of the hole in the door shell, so it flexes between about a 90 degree 6-inch(ish) diameter curve (door closed) to maybe a 30 degree bend with the door opened.
There is more than enough flex in them. They seem to work nicely.
If I did it again, I'd try to find an OEM conduit from a high volume modern car, probably a late commodore, and raid a self serve wrecker for decent ones to tidy up...
What I've done is neat, but an OEM solution would be super slick...
Posted 04 December 2024 - 12:03 PM
Fantastic stuff. Love that it's at the test-drive stage!
Posted 17 December 2024 - 03:26 PM
Finished the Dash install...
I added a trim piece on the Passenger side to delete the heater vents and give the dash a smooth look. came up sweet.
I've also made a bracket for the Battery mount in the boot, plus finished wiring up the electric boot release and routed the wiring loom, with the backup cable release tucked in with it.
I've just got the tailpipes, wiper arms and Polution gear/breathers etc. to install then I'm booking in for a RWC, so things are getting very exciting!
Posted 17 December 2024 - 03:29 PM
pics of the boot release and loom:
Not sure I've I've mentioned this before, the Boot mech is out of an FG Falcon, I tried a few Generic Ebay Electronic boot soleniods and they were garbage, I quickly decided I wanted to adapt something OEM so that I could take advantage of the superior design and reliability. It was so easy to adapt into this car... great addition.
Posted 17 December 2024 - 04:05 PM
I'd be running a 0V lead from the -ve terminal straight to the engine as well. Too much voltage drop through the body from back there.
Posted 17 December 2024 - 05:47 PM
I've ran one from the engine to the Chassis, and then another from the Chassis to the Body. Everything seems to be happy.
I did have a 200a Breaker in the +ve line and it really hated it. Cranking was impacted big time and it would sometimes throw the breaker during cranking. For now I've removed it and the issues went away.
I would like some protection if I can figure out a better way but I'll focus on RWC for now and re-visit that later...
Posted 17 December 2024 - 06:19 PM
Nice work mate especially the dash - factory like, but still custom.
The old eleco in me has to comment on the battery install.
Don't want to be disrespectful, but do the set screws on top of the battery go into nuts that are welded on?
Reckon that top flat bar/retaining bar needs to be -
1 Bolted & Nyloc'd , and
2 The flat bar ( assuming it's metal) needs to be covered with some thick heatshrink or tape.
If the flat bar ever came loose , or was mishandled during instal/removal, you'd have a perfect battery +ve to Neg. short circuit.
You'd then see the full 720 CCA of the battery more than likely make a nice boot fire/ battery explosion, pretty quickly. No good.
Apologies if I've misunderstood the flat bar deal.
Regards.
Posted 18 December 2024 - 09:52 AM
that's good feedback mate...no issues there!!
I've got some large heatshrink so I can easily add that and some Nyloc nuts... would be silly not to address that when it's such an easy fix to implement. Maybe I could also find a nice boot to put over the +ve terminal, might search ebay for something...
Posted 18 December 2024 - 05:17 PM
Posted 18 December 2024 - 06:30 PM
Posted 18 December 2024 - 07:24 PM
Looks super clean...think horn button or centre of steering wheels needs bit of black or something custom.
A sparky put me on to these nifty items plan to use on my vk.
Anbi Switch battery isolator on negative side
https://www.google.c...FscZflxPF-4GAR5
Other cool one Projecta Fused Battery Distribution Terminal
https://www.google.c...yqTpe2iqjI9jQJw
Posted 20 December 2024 - 08:23 AM
Yeh I could probably have done that design too but this way is tight so it'll be fine for now...
plus when I buttoned everything up, I proclaimed "That's not going anywhere!" this works for situations other than tying down trailer loads... right?
Edited by SHEEL, 20 December 2024 - 08:23 AM.
Posted 20 December 2024 - 10:30 AM
Posted 20 December 2024 - 04:08 PM
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