394 replies to this topic

[hawk]

The tail lights are fine, it's the parkers coming on when the brakes are pressed.

Also are auto and manual gearbox cogs the same? What colour will I need?
202 aussie 4 speed 3.08 diff from memory.

[Toranamat69]

Sounds like it might be a single filament bulb in one of the tail light sockets rather than a twin filament.

1.75 negative camber is way too much for a street car. Tires will be worn in no time.

[claysummers]

That caster will make the steering pretty heavy at parking speed as well.

Aussie manual and trimatic cogs are the same. I think try a red one from memory but tyres are a factor as well.


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[Rockoz]

The parkers and brake lights coming on is still more than likely an earth issue.

It may be the wrong lamp, but my bet will still be on an earthing problem.

Most lighting issues are.

Check the earth connections on the body as well as the light fitting.

It doesnt take a whole lot for the smoke to find another path to get back to the battery.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[Heath]

Those alignment settings sound good to me!

 

Remember, Steve lives in the hills. If you're wearing out tyres with 1.75degrees of camber when you live near good roads, you need to start driving more quickly. 2.5deg of castor is mint! No point in having UC upper arms if you don't take advantage of them. That's bloody perfect.

 

Hell yes, nicely done Steve. I'm thrilled to see this good news.

[hawk]

Thanks Guys.

Heath I'd say we'll be done around the same time and ready for some cruises.

I got the new heater core in yesterday ready to plumb up. Still haven't bothered looking into the issue with the lights yet.

It's booked in for am exhaust next Friday.

Now for the bad news, gearbox has to come back out. The speedo isn't working because the gear has moved on the shaft and isn't lined up with the cable hole. I have a spare gear and clip if I need them. Figure I will adjust the clutch fork a bit more and probably get the box at least partially rebuilt with all new seals just to be safe.

[hawk]

Finally plumbed up the heater core today.

The issue with the lights was a single filament where there should have been a double.

Took it for a spin today to get petrol. it's really struggling going into gear and downshifting. To the point where it's not drivable. the clutch is engaging and disengaging properly so would it be not enough oil in the box?

[claysummers]

Which box and what oil you running?

early Holden nut

[hawk]

Aussie 4 speed, M20. No idea on oil off the top of my head to be honest.

What oil should I be using?

The box is leaking a bit out the tailshaft seal.

[claysummers]

Good sign means there is oil in it. Can’t hurt change the oil. 89w90 these days correct me someone? I use Morey’s stabiliser about 10:1. There are shift improver additives you could try. Is it crunching or just stubborn?


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[warrenm]

80W90 is ok.

[hawk]

Well the verdict is in and its broken.
Didn't even get 5 klms out of it after I bought it.

I guess that's what happens with second hand gear.

Pulled the box out today to do the seals and replace the speedo gear clip and found some chunks of synchro in the bottom of it.

It's been dropped off at the ace that built my last box.

It had 80w90 and wasn't low on oil.

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I sat the bits I found here as an example.

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engine bay is basically done. It will get tidy up with a redone engine loom and such later on.

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[claysummers]

Bugger sold you a pup.

early Holden nut

[hawk]

Not a lot to report on still. Waiting for the box, should have it back mid Jan.

Turns out the synchros are good the issue was a broken circlip that holds the 1st and second gears in place. Relatively cheap repair although the shop is busy being Christmas time.

In the meantime I picked up some 14 x 9 1/4 centrelines or similar. Even though theu are know as brake heaters, they are one of my favourite wheel styles.

I only have the pair for now and they make me really want to flare the car. I bought some rough second hand flares to have a look at it.

It may be a touchy subject being a UC but I've always wanted a flared can and can't afford LH and LX prices. Maybe it will get a conversion one day.

Anyway decided to try my hand at some bodywork over the break as the passengers side doors and quarter need a bit of work.

Made a start on the rear door today, knocked the dent out as best I could then bogged it. It's not great but is better than it was and still needs a lot of sanding.

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[hawk]

Door is coming along well. Deffinitly not perfect but a lot better than it was. Missed a couple of small dents but not too fussed as its just to get it cleaned up. in hindsight I should have taken the lot back to metal. Will probably do that with the passengers front door.

Colour will go on this one tomorrow. All done with trusty old rattle cans.

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[rodomo]

boggin n rubbin n boggin n rubbin n boggin n rubbin n boggin n rubbin n boggin n rubbin n boggin n rubbin n boggin n rubbin n boggin n rubbin n boggin n rubbin 

 

Doncha just luv it! 

[Heath]

Hopefully you'll be driving the car reliably in a month or two!

A vote against flares on UC's here personally, but I think you should definitely try and fill out the existing guards really nicely with some dished wheels and a bit of stretch... Or give them a proper pump job if you really want to have high impact! Good fitment gives an unflared Torana a lot of the same visual effects as a flared car, and with some sheetmetal work on the arches you could fit those awesome deep dish wheels similar to that (if you didn't want to go super aggressive with the sheet metal work, you could also get the diff shortened a little and then you can at least have the big dish). I sometimes think I should have left mine un-flared and done more of that stuff.

Those wheels are Globe Globelines, by the way.

[hawk]

Thanks guys, I'm still not sure on the flares. I'll make a decision once it's on the road.

Anyway the door is done and has come up pretty well. onto the front door next.

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[308 Sunbird]

Good job and looks like you've got the fit perfect.

[hawk]

Well the gearbox came back yesterday, got it fitted up and driving again. Sadly the speedo still isn't working. did some troubleshooting and found that the gear wasn't secured to the shaft correctly.

So the gearbox has to come back apart. Really hoping the shop that built the box will fix it as I really can't be bothered pulling the box back out.

Guess I'll find out Monday.

On another note, the passengers front door work has started. It needed a lot of bog to fill the dents even after knocking them out. Not really happy with the result so far so it may get stripped back and re bogged.

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[MictheAussie]

You should be able to just pop the rear housing off the gearbox and put the clip in that holds the speedo gear. No need to pull the whole box.

[hawk]

Little but more progress.

The hearbox place fixed the box and told me I was using the wrong thrust bearing.

Got the car home, pulled the box again and swapped it out for the correct one. If anyone is needing to buy a cable clutch thrust bearing as they're hard to find, Holdent in Melbourne sells them new. They only have about 15 left.

Once that was done the car drove a lot nicer. clutch feel and adjustment was made way easier.

Following that the interior went back together for the last time.

Then this weekend I finally finished off the passengers side front door. While far from perfect it's way better than it was before. At least it's all one colour and the huge dents are gone.

Not too bad for a rattle can job.

Trust bearings, correct one on the right.

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Before
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After, door gaps still need some work.

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[toryman76]

I spent lots of time mucking around with thrust bearings as I did the UC cable mod to my LX. Thing I learnt was that the carrier (steel part pressed on the bearing) is available as a repro item but the bearings you press onto them were very different to an original in terms of the shape. I hunted down a genuine NOS bearing for mine and instantly fixed my adjustment issues and noise issues. This is the problem now with spare parts unfortunately. Too many errors with what is supposed to be a compatible replacement.

[hawk]

I found the opposite, the bearing was easy to find, the carrier not so much.

Anyway the last few days have been a big effort to sort the car.

Exhaust was done on Friday, hotdog with a single muffler. 2 1/2 inch with a 2 1/4 tailpipe. sounds pretty average but it is just a standard 202.

Got it back and could actually hear all the rattles in the car. the shifter linkages were pretty bad and the shifter itself still has a good rattle to it.

The problem is that there was a nasty rattle from the gearbox area that went when the clutch was pushed in. I figured the flywheel had come loose even though it was loctited on.

Anyway out came the box again on Saturday. Turned out that the spigot bush had flogged out. Replaced it and got It back together.

Tidied up a few things on the car like a blown fuse, replacing the number plate light and lense.etc.

And it's finally dropped in for a road worthy certificate. Really hoping they don't pick much if anything. I find out tomorrow.

[Heath]

You're a machine mate. A lot of chin up action in the face of pain in the arse setbacks here.

 

Just checking... are the bolts that hold your pressure plate on a nice quality shanked bolt?

I remember Graybo had issues flogging out a spigot bush (and clutch shudder IIRC) when he used 'fully threaded' bolts for a clutch assy onto the flywheel. The correct bolts always have a shank that fits nicely into the pressure plate.