394 replies to this topic

[Rockoz]

Yeah you can use resistance to check the gauges.

But not really necessary.

Why make something simple harder?

 

You can do a couple of things with the fusible link.

But first you need to find the size of the wire it feeds.

If I get time today I will go and measure some stuff.

 

If you want to keep the link in its existing location, then going a size or 2 down in wire size will do the trick.

Perhaps even 3 sizes down.

But you would probably be better off running a wire direct to the battery rather than the starter, then you can get a plug in fusible link.

The advantage is that it is easier to replace than the wire. Sometimes the wire will fail without showing any external indication.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[hawk]

Thanks, ended up purchasing an inline midi 60 amp fusible link.

Got my new temp sensor for the motor Tridon TTS033 and the gauge still won't move even when the motor is hot.
Dead gauge or wrong sensor?

[Rockoz]

Make sure the sensor is for a gauge and not an idiot light.

There have been issues with people using thread tape to put the sensor in as well.

The outside of the sensor needs a good earth if its a single pin type

 

Cheers

 

Rob

Edited by Rockoz, 20 October 2022 - 08:46 AM.

[hawk]

Looks like they supplied the wrong one... Again.

In other news, my Dad just purchased his new project. Heath should recognise this car. It's pretty Bad rust wise but does come with a lot of the sections to fix it.



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[Heath]

Yep, David's car.

Didn't realise it was for sale. It was a tidy (although certainly not perfect), quite original car back in my P plate days. A fairly long time has passed since, though, and it doesn't look like it has had such a pampered life since...

 

Still, that is great news.

[hawk]

It's been sitting outside the majority of the last 10 years. Still a very original car although a little worse for wear.

Rear end is pretty rusty, front is really clean. guards, nosecone, radiator support and drivers floor are rust free.

front windows frames, passengers floor, plenum, rear windows, parcel shelf, inners below the parcel shelf, both quarters, both tail light buckets and boot floor all need repairs.

Worst of it is drivers side rear window area. Inner skins also rusty and passengers side tail light bucket is help in with hopes and dreams.

[hawk]

A few photos of what Dad is going to have to deal with. will probably need a bit of advice around the parcel shelf repairs and roof at the door jams.

Actually suprised how solid the floors are considering.

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And a few more.

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[hawk]

Haven't done much to the UC lately other than drive it. I ended up buying a sports cluster to try and solve my Dash issues.

The oil pressure gauge is buggered and the fuel gauge still doesn't work. Looks like I need to pull the tank and check over the sender at some point.

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I also spent a couple of days rewiring the engine loom. its not perfect although is definitely a lot nicer than it was before.

Recieved these wheels as a gift. 17x7 and 17x8 genuine 3 piece simmons with Bridgestone potenza 225 on the rear and continental 215 up front.

Pretty good fit although not sold on the look yet. Might need to go a bit lower to sit where I want it.

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I've pulled the stainless trims off the boot lid and from around the tail lights. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the rivet holes welded up. I'm not sure about the badges yet as I'm considering a rear spoiler.

Also been thinking a lot about the driveline and what to do with it. Thoughts are to either work the 202,drop in a holden V8 or go RB30. Not really interested in an LS as I'm not a fan of them.

I have a 5 speed toyota box lined up to go behind the 202 eventually, could it be used behind a V8 too with the correct belhousing?

Still planning the skyline diff, at this stage I'll probably use the one out of Dads as he is going back to a banjo for rego purposes. it's already torana pattern and LSD centre. As his car is an LH will I get away with just doing the top mounts or am I better off using the spare housing I have and leaving the other one to suit the LH?

[Rockoz]

Looking at the pic of the oil gauge, I reckon you have an idiot light sender instead of a gauge sender.

Pull the wire off the sender and see what happens.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[Statler]

I've pulled the stainless trims off the boot lid and from around the tail lights. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the rivet holes welded up. I'm not sure about the badges yet as I'm considering a rear spoiler

Personally i would leave them on.

It's one of those things that were only on the 'Torana' & not the Sunbird. 

[rexy]

Wheels look good!

I think the rebadged smooth look suits the UC.

[hawk]

Well its a bit late now haha.When the car was repaired back in the day, they replaced the welded studs with rivets and I believe some of my water in the boot issues are coming from there.

Swapped on the spare boot lid.
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And fitted the Venetians he didn't want.
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Rivets in the body that need addressing
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Rivets removed from the boot lid.
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Welded up and bare metalled on top

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There was a lot of surface rust under the paint and bog that will need treating and a few dents to fill.
On another note, I thing the LH style torana badge on the boot lid looks really good on the car.

Rockoz, It has the correct sender for the oil gauge, pretty sure that image was with it disconnected from the sensor.

[rexy]

“DE badged”

[hawk]

Got the Rear spoiler holes drilled. As I haven't mounted one thike this before I was pretty worried about getting in all lined up properly. Got there in the end and it lines up well enough. Still need to drill the access holes for the studs though.

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rust converted, I'm not sure if this look right or not but after applying this converted is looked like surface rust on the bare metal.

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Etch primed top and bottom.

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[hawk]

Slowly working away on the boot lid.

It was a pain to fit up but got there in the end. Being a rares spoiler, it was a pretty average fit and still has ripples along the back edge that I'll just have to deal with.

Test fitment

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Underside in colour

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[hawk]

The top side straight off the gun

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Is it worth clear coating the underside of the bootlid?
What sealant should I use around the spoiler holes?
Is it worth adding a rubber strip under the front edge to protect the boot lid paint?

As for the spoiler, I'm not sure which way to go. At this stageit will go all yellow althoughI may add blackouts or something else at a later stage.

This is how I did my last UC and I'm unsure of the body colour strip along the bottom edge.

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On another note, I've finally dropped my diff off to get started on. At this stage it's just the mount change on a R31 skyline borg warner. I'll get it done bit by bit to spread the cost.
Mounts are costing $700 to get done.
Can the axles be re drilled to torana pattern? I'd rather not have to get axles made too.

[hawk]

Well, it's on. The spoiler still needs a couple more coats of paint and clear, but I'll do that later on.

Fitted rubber less rear bar and pulled the rubber off the front bar.

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and more

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[RIM-010]

Coming together nicely man!

[hawk]

Thanks to Brett (LXCHEV) I have a head unit. Picked it up off him last night and wired it in after work today. Fitted to the glovebox so the dash wouldn't need to be cut up.

Ran the constant to the back of fuse box off the horn fuse. The ignition switched power is coming from the original radio power wire.

Still yet to find somewhere that sells thick enough speaker spacers for the parcel shelf, might need to make some.

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[LXCHEV]

Glad to see it's already up and running mate.

 

For the rear speaker spacers - grab some MDF and your jigsaw, and have a bit of fun making your own!

[hawk]

So I have found a couple of 308's for sale. Loretta standard and well used for 3k each. One is a 77 block and the other is a 80 block.

Is 3k reasonable for a complete runner at the moment? Which one would better suit the UC? is there much of a difference between the two?

[yel327]

Either should be OK as both 1977 and 1980 are ADR27A which is what the UC is. If they are totally original the 1977 one will be 9.7:1 static and the 1980 will be 9.4:1 if a red or 9.2:1 if a blue, slightly bigger dish in the pistons. A 1980 308 regardless of red or blue will have the longer valley head bolt bosses.

 

People ask $1000 for a standard bore 308 block, so a useable runner with all accessories is worth $3k. Have you looked at a VN-VS 5 litre? A running one of these would be similar $ but will cost more to fit as you have to swap sumps, find engine mounts etc. Plus the fuel system parts costs.

[hawk]

The 1980 is a blue motor, I believe. should I go the 77 because of the higher compression?

I was looking at 304's but would rather use the earlier block and keep it carbed.

[yel327]

There is no real power difference between a pollution red or a 1980 blue motor. Slightly less compression along the way but those are 40+ year old parts, and any advantage either way goes as soon as the heads are off and you freshen it up. The main advantage of the blue engine is the intake, carb (with external metering rod adjustment) and HEI dizzy. But again all easily changed, and many have rotted out intakes anyway which you just replace with a KC or Performer.
If both are claimed runners see if you can borrow a pin head camera and jam down the plug holes and look at the bores. Do a compression test if you can. In the end though the first point of failure on any of these from HT through to VS was normally the camshaft and oil pump. I’ve used plenty of old 308 or 304 before, and left the pistons and bores alone, just changed bearings, oil pump, timing chain set, cam/lifters and reseated the valves. Or a combination of the above. We even once got this crappy looking 308 short for $100 that was already 60 thou and stripped to a short as the cam was buggered. We re-used the whole rotating assembly as it was other than rod bearings. Fitted an EFI cam with new lifters and a whole VP top end to it and stuck it in a WB. That thing hammered, felt like a stock 350.

[yel327]

Shame this isn’t near you. Probably a cracked head.

http://www.gumtree.c...&utm_source=sms