416 replies to this topic

[Rockoz]

Doesnt take too long to pull the front seats out.

That can help making underdash work a bit more bearable.

Have done it many times to make life easier.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[hawk]

That's the plan as I need to finish the shifter cover too.

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[hawk]

Ended up calling the guy I got the reco carb off and he exchanged it for another one.

Runs pretty much perfectly now.

[hawk]

So the car is getting there now.

The gearbox issues are almost sorted, just one small change to make to the cable.

The shifter surround is in. I tacked it in place and ran seam sealer around it in case I ever want to make it better.

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I then changed the interior back to the cream colour as it's closer to my new front seats

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[hawk]

New front seats are in.

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On another note, I have been considering selling the car to help with a head start on a house deposit.

I know it's almost there but considering the cost associated with getting the car engineered, I'm not sure if it's worth it at this stage.

The car is still registered as a 6, but the issue would be insurance.

Currently to get engineering it would need:

Upgraded booster
upgraded front brakes
pollution gear hooked up
Handbrake cables made
tailpipes (this is an issue due to the current fuel system)

The bigger issue is that I picked this motor up cheap as it has no engine number, its a VT roller motor. I do have a 78 308 block that I could use but realistically the right thing to do would be to buy another bottom end and swap all my stuff onto that motor.

I guess that's my mistake, probably shouldn't have purchased it like that.

So I'm kind of stuck, even selling the car in this state would probably be a hassle.

Thing is I'm scared to drive it much without it being legal and having insurance.

[ben23]

Hey mate I can't believe I have overlooked your build, admittedly I don't spend enough time on here. I just had a good browse through it and you are doing a top job. You commented recently on my "what to do?" post and while yeah at our respective points, selling the cars and putting it buying houses. You know what, frOck that. I'll get mine done and come down to Mexico and we will cruise!!

[hawk]

Cheers Ben appreciate the sentiment. I'm in the same boat as you, way too deep into the car to ever make my money back now.

My issue is that my daily driver is rooted, I'm renting and have no savings.
I also have full custody of the 10 year old son which changes things a bit for me.

I definitely won't rush into the descision

[yel327]

New front seats are in.

20250421_170239.jpg

On another note, I have been considering selling the car to help with a head start on a house deposit.

I know it's almost there but considering the cost associated with getting the car engineered, I'm not sure if it's worth it at this stage.

The car is still registered as a 6, but the issue would be insurance.

Currently to get engineering it would need:

Upgraded booster
upgraded front brakes
pollution gear hooked up
Handbrake cables made
tailpipes (this is an issue due to the current fuel system)

The bigger issue is that I picked this motor up cheap as it has no engine number, its a VT roller motor. I do have a 78 308 block that I could use but realistically the right thing to do would be to buy another bottom end and swap all my stuff onto that motor.

I guess that's my mistake, probably shouldn't have purchased it like that.

So I'm kind of stuck, even selling the car in this state would probably be a hassle.

Thing is I'm scared to drive it much without it being legal and having insurance.

 

That's a bugger mate. What do you need to do with the brakes I get the booster, but rotors/calipers wise?

You do know that a VT motor will have the correct date code for a late 70's ADR27A 308....

[hawk]

Cheers Yel,

The rotors/ callipers will need to be upgraded to HQ at a minimum.

The way i look at it is and HQ setup will cost around $1500 once you factor in new discs, HQ stubs, girlock steering arms etc.

Hoppers kit would be around the $2200 mark.

No idea what a booster and master will cost.

engineers certificate will be a minimum of $2000.

[yel327]

Cheers Yel,

The rotors/ callipers will need to be upgraded to HQ at a minimum.

The way i look at it is and HQ setup will cost around $1500 once you factor in new discs, HQ stubs, girlock steering arms etc.

Hoppers kit would be around the $2200 mark.

No idea what a booster and master will cost.

engineers certificate will be a minimum of $2000.

 

Is that what the Engineer makes you do? Because its a UC and you cannot use the fact that LX with L31 had the same rotors and calipers as a 6cyl car?

 

You could probably do the front brake upgrade to a budget if you were only doing it to sell it. HK-HJ stubs are easy to find, its the calipers for HQ that are getting harder to buy. Just use the UC steering arms, not perfect but pretty good. The easy way out is to use your UC PBR calipers (if that is what is on it) and simply change the pad carrier (to the one with HOLDEN on it). For the rears just bolt on HQ-WB backing plates, and fit HK-HG drums, straight bolt on including the Torana handbrake cables. The master cyl should be fine (unless its the late UC with the alloy/plastic master, then you need an aftermarket WB ute/van/tonner one). Booster you'll probably have to get one made out of other boosters and using your back pushrod. HK-HG work. That does mean you are left with HQ front stud pattern and UC rear though, unless you can get some axles made with HQ pattern, then HQ-WB drums just replace the HK-HG ones. I did see a whole HK-HG front end on Marketplace last night fitted with HQ front discs and calipers, and it looked like the rotors were drilled to HK-HG, but the bugger was in WA.

 

Engineers Cert does hurt I agree. But how much less is the car worth without it?

 

What I was getting at with the VT block - I assume it is all tested and legit (as in no risk of it being hot?) If it is just tell them its a HX/Z or VB block, and get a Police number issued.

 

I can assist you with what you need for the ADR27A gear so its all good. Remember a red ADR27A V8 has no EGR valve, it is blanked off. 

[hawk]

My rear brakes are the skyline discs and callipers. So I'm set there.

What I was led to believe when I purchased the motor is that the number off this one was getting used on his new motor as the car is registered with that number.

Hence it was taken off before the motor was sold to me. and pretty poorly at that.

If that isn't the case then yes there is potential it's hot.

I shouldn't have bought it, it was a mistake.

[ben23]

Cheers Ben appreciate the sentiment. I'm in the same boat as you, way too deep into the car to ever make my money back now.

My issue is that my daily driver is rooted, I'm renting and have no savings.
I also have full custody of the 10 year old son which changes things a bit for me.

I definitely won't rush into the descision

The way I see it is it won't really put a dent in saving for a home, however if it was the one thing stopping me from getting over the line, then yeah, I probably would.

[yel327]

That will cost you more Engineering again with a rear disc conversion, they’ll have to do brake tests.

I’ll PM you the the number.

If you have Marketplace search “Disk brake Front cross member” in Mandurah WA. You can see he’s done a HQ disc and caliper conversion on a HK crossmember. Basically identical to hat you’d need to do, same stubs too.

[hawk]

Thanks,

Yeah it's a complete Skyline rear end in it out of an R31. still need to get Handbrake cables made up.

Was hoping g to just pass it off as a factory disc rear end.

I have some H series callipers at home. I'll dig them out and see what type they are.

These are the fronts currently on it. When asking repco or similar for UC pads it always comes up with the wrong ones.

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[claysummers]

Those marketplace studs look 4.75” PCD to me Byron, not 4.25”.

Edited by claysummers, Today, 04:00 PM.

[yel327]

Those marketplace studs look 4.75” PCD to me Byron, not 4.25”.

 

Look in between the studs Clay, there is other holes. They have obviously been drilled for something else.

[yel327]

Thanks,

Yeah it's a complete Skyline rear end in it out of an R31. still need to get Handbrake cables made up.

Was hoping g to just pass it off as a factory disc rear end.

I have some H series callipers at home. I'll dig them out and see what type they are.

These are the fronts currently on it. When asking repco or similar for UC pads it always comes up with the wrong ones.

20210731_134516.jpg

 

You might get away with that, Engineer's aren't silly though!

 

Is this late UC? Does it have the WB style master cylinder or a cast iron one?

 

These are the caliper style I was talking about. You just replace the cast iron bit (says TORANA) with the corresponding bit off a HOLDEN:

 

https://www.ebay.com...:Bk9SR_7mycHLZQ

 

These bolt straight up to HK-WB stubs/rotors with UC steering arms.

 

Here is the Holden type, you can use the whole caliper but the hose is bottom entry, top entry is more suited to Torana. Plus you need the Torana slide, look on the Torana ones on the Ebay link, the bolt that goes at the front next to the tie rod has a recess in it, which is for an Allen headed bolt. The normal Holden one fouls the tie rod.

 

https://www.ebay.com...:Bk9SR9qC38HLZQ