394 replies to this topic

[Rockoz]

Ive used both.

If left outside in the weather, the zinc one seems to absorb moisture and starts to rust a bit sooner than the copper.

Not a scientific test by any means, just my observations.

Even cold gal doesnt seem to last as well as I would expect in the weather.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[Heath]

My method with these primers on overlapping joints is wherever there's going to be a MIG weld (eg. plug weld like we're talking about here), is clamp it into position, then scrape all the paint off the surface through the holes you're going to plug up. You're not trying to weld onto the painted surface, lol.

 

Start the weld in the middle of the hole to get a bit of temperature into the weld and then quickly move to the edge where it connects with the bit with the hole in it.

Lots of amps, will keep the weld flat and the penetration sound.

 

Argoshield only, 10L/min flow rate should be adequate. A small (proper, not the disposable type) bottle should last you AGES (like my Argoshield probably lasts me 3 years, although I would empty a TIG bottle which is used in a slower welding process might only last me 4 months).

Edited by Heath, 16 February 2021 - 02:49 PM.

[hawk]

Thanks for the advice guys, I took weld through too literally I think haha.

I have the smallest of the proper bottles. The mixed gas was set to 10L min and the argon only had to be set to 30L min for a decent weld. Dad set it up so I guess I trusted his judgement.

Will only be buying the mixed from now on as it welded a lot nicer than the argon on its own.

I'll get a bottle of the mixed gas this week and reset the welder to suit. Hopefully them I can get the last bit of the drivers side rail done.

Then I'll give the floor inside a lick of KBS black after a clean up.

[Rockoz]

Ive never needed anything like 30 litres per minute for ANY welding.

10 is generally okay, up to 12 as a max.

If that isnt working for you, then something is wrong.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[hawk]

Anything below that was spattery shit. Ah well back to the mixed gas tomorrow hopefully.

Started the drivers side rail repair where the gearbox crossmember is.It looks better than it was, note the bend in the Reinforcement plate for reference to how squashed it was.

before:

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Floor cut:

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Reinforcement plate out, note the bend before and after.

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Rail bashed relatively straight again.

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[rodomo]

[Rockoz]

As far as the gas goes, I have a bottle of both.

I havent set up my welding trolley yet, so I move my steel MIG between the truck in the yard I am working on, and the shed where I do the most welding.

One bottle is in the shed, the other beside the truck.

I dont care which gas I use, and the welds are okay with either.

The only real difference I can see is the colour of the smoke marks around the welds.

Although its not ideal, the gas shouldnt make a huge difference in the weld quality.

Im looking more at the person.

When you weld, get up close and personal with it. The only thing you should be watching is the weld puddle, and to a lesser extent, where your weld is going. If you watch the puddle you can see exactly what is happening with what you are doing.

Ive welded tube together and gone off track many a time, but it was still a good weld.

Just meant a bit more grinding to tidy things up.

Didnt look the greatest, but it did the job it was meant to do.

I dont care too much about the look of the weld.

I dont profess to being a welder.

I am actually more of a grinder.

Years ago I watched in awe as a mate of mine built a tow truck back for another mate.

It was made entirely of chequer plate steel.

He took the time to line up the chequers so they matched up in line with each other.

He welded the entire job with a stick welder.

There was not a single grind mark anywhere.

He had a 9 inch grinder, but it was only used with a cutting disc, and rarely at that.

He cut most of it with an oxy.

He was a top class boilermaker, and it showed. But that was his job.

He could even cut a round hole in a plate that was good enough to run a tap through later. Freehand.

 

Dont be too hard on yourself.

Its a learning process.

But maybe do some more practice welds.

0.9mm electro gal sheet is only about 50 bucks for a 2.4 x 1.2 sheet.

Cut one up and practice practice practice.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[claysummers]

What Rob said

early Holden nut

[hawk]

Got the mixed gas today and changed the settings and the welds were a lot nicer.

Welded the plate back to the rail. Might get the floor section in tomorrow arfer work.

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[rodomo]

You're doin orite Steve for a bloke that was worried about tackling this stuff 

[toryman76]

Super job Steve nothing wrong with those repairs. One thing I thought of with my welder that's worth noting. When I use the gasless wire I have to swap over the neg and pos on the earth lead. No idea why. I did it a couple of times when I was desperate but I hated the gasless wire so I never use it now.

[Rockoz]

Super job Steve nothing wrong with those repairs. One thing I thought of with my welder that's worth noting. When I use the gasless wire I have to swap over the neg and pos on the earth lead. No idea why. I did it a couple of times when I was desperate but I hated the gasless wire so I never use it now.

I tried gasless with the first budget MIG I bought.

It was kind of okay on anything about 2mm and thicker.

Was reasonable full belt on 6mm.

Got the shits with it really quickly and bought a little gas bottle from Bunnings, and some new wire.

Got about 10 inches of weld done and it went crappy again.

Bottle had run out. Bought 2 more before I bit the bullet and bought a regulator and opened a Gasweld account.

Eventually bought a decent MIG and went to Coregas. Gasweld rental costs were getting way up there.

Only time I have really had success with gasless wire was when I was helping a mate hardface some buckets.

Think it was 1.5mm gasless wire.

Was using a 400 amp machine to do it.

Loved doing that job for a day. Not sure I would want to do it full time though.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[hawk]

Thanks for the advice guys, I think I've got the settings sorted now.

Rodomo, I over think everything and always doubt my capabilities haha.

Anyway floor welded back in. Welds came up awesome with minimal grinding. only 2 pin holes I had to touch up. it was difficult lining the piece up to go back in as the whole floor was warped and dented upwards. I had to knock it back down in a few spots.

Maybe someone used it for some rallying at some point? Either that or it was without a doubt paddock bashed.

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[yel327]

Just a Torana, they dint and bend pretty easily. Plus side is they also straighten out pretty well when pulled back. If you’d seen how they performed in demo derbies in the 90’s you’d get it. I remember totalling one with one hit, it crumbled almost as fast as a Volvo 200 Series in the same derby. I was in a HG wagon, but nothing was a match for those Aussie designed Holdens, tough as old boots but they weren’t really designed to crumple either.

[claysummers]

Keep at it Hawk


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Rockoz]

I will be honest with you.

What you are managing to do with your repairs is a lot better than a lot of panel beaters would do.

One panel beater I know well does welds that are about 10% of the quality you are getting.

And thats in the actual weld.

His eyes arent the best and a stitch weld will start on one piece, cross over the join a little than continue on the other side of the weld.

So he would be lucky to get 10% of the weld actually done.

A bit of body deadener covers a multitude of sins.

His painting wasnt much better.

Cant understand how he remained in business to be truthful.

He is retired now, and doing projects in his shed.

 

Cheers 

 

Rob

[hawk]

Thanks thats good to hear haha. I always worry about getting others to do work on my cars.

Anyway cleaned up the passengers side front floorpan, etch primed then KBS rust sealed it.

Hopefully I'll get the rear passengers side pan done tomorrow.

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[hawk]

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[Holdenbn74]

Good work mate, keep at it. Great feeling completing it yaself 👍

[Heath]

Excellent repairs, Steve. Nice one.

[hawk]

Thanks, still plugging away slowly.

Got some more of the floor painted, should finish it this weekend.

Ordered new B and C pillar vinyl. Went with black as nothing else was close. It will do for now.

To finish off the interior for now I still need:

Seat bolts
seat belt bolts and potentially new belts.
Carpet and underlay
replacement auto T-bar handle (may go with a hatch style one)
Kick panels (can wait for now)
pinch weld (may reuse for now)
If the screen has to be replaced I will replace the headlining too as its pretty rooted where it meets the B pillars and door jams.

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[hawk]

First coat on the passengers side rear pan.

As I've been doing the floor the mystery as to this cars past deepens. All signs point to a previous cut and shut through the centre of the car.

behind the centre floorpan brace all the spotwelds across the floor have been re done same with the rear of both chassis rails. Also some in front of the floor brace as seen below.

I can't imagine a UC ever have been worth a cut and shut like that in the past.

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[yel327]

Has it been cut across the inner sill or did they unpick those off the outer sill? How it’s done is how we used to repair tonners and utes, use the whole front from that floor joint right around to the windscreen pillars, doors, dash and all. You’d cut a GTS, Statesman or Premier and transfer the whole lot onto the commercial cabin and rails. Engine, box etc too.

[UCgazman]

I've seen worse - I bought a Gemini once that was later found to be made of three different cars, roof & b pillars from one, front end and rear end from two others...

[hawk]

I'll hopefully get some better photos later today, its deffinitly welded through the inner sill.

Also explains the bog in the roof.Rear half looks to have been maroon