77 replies to this topic

[ljv8]

Ahh ignore above post, submitted before I could format it properly..

 

Ok took the pedal off again, and the pedal clutch rod control measured 55mm center to center so I guessed wrong.  The clutch rod control on my rat trap measured exactly 2", I must have arsed that one when I repaired it some time ago.

 

Thanks guy's, will re-weld my pedal clutch control and drill at exactly 2".  It explains one part why there was some movement in my control rod at rest.  The other part is my control cable is stretched by 4+mm. 

 

2mm here, 4mm there it all adds up to less take up at the fork. 

 

I managed to get my hands on a new control rod.  The other end the inside edge of the beads are level so this image show's the clear difference.

 New and Old rod Differences.png   497.2K   1 downloads

 

Old measured 292 to from inside edge of bead to opposite inside edge.  You can see how the beads have pulled further back onto the rod from may millions of pedal cycles.

 Old Rod End 01.png   469.08K   1 downloads

 

New one measures 288mm from inside edge of bead to opposite inside edge. 

 New Rod End 01.png   484.06K   1 downloads

 

I also sourced a good replacement clutch fork, as when comparing to a known good source mine did have a bit of an arc / bend in it. 

 

The clutch place did recommend spacing the pivot ball and adding a 2mm spacer, which I have done.

 Ball 01.png   495.5K   1 downloads

 

Unfortunately I wasn't able to get my pressure plate tested by the supplier, and I won't be able to get there until the new year to have it tested.  I can't wait that long so with all these little incremental changes, properly fitting the rattle spring, and having had the pressure plate off, and clutch plate (which was a little stuck to the pressure plate) it's all going back on and out for another try.

 

I also took the time to fix my original LC/LJ shifter.  I was using a cut down Commodore shifter.  I had an issue with the original LJ shifter going into reverse even when the levers to the box were not connected.  It was a second hand shifter I never had tried before.  Turned out the shaft was rotated, and the slot to allow the shifter to pull up in reverse was on the top instead of the bottom.  Fixed that then still wouldnt go through the gate into reverse.  Took out the spring and shifted fine.  I compared the spring to my other shifter, was same length but the plastic black insert (stopper) on the inside was about 4-3mm longer.  Pulled it out trimmed it down and shifts into reverse fine.  Happy day's can now put the orig chrome shifter back when the box goes in.

 

If ithe clutch is still no good will wait until the new year and get the release pressure tested on the pressure plate.  Will see how it goes and report success or abysmal failure.

[ljv8]

Just to close out this thread, we have success!  Thanks all who contributed for your guidance and ideas, it's greatly appreciated. 

 

Got everything back in and have been driving her for a few days.  I now have plenty of adjustment in the clutch push rod, and I can actually back it off a bit as my clutch is taking up a bit too high now.  Didn't think I would have that issue!

 

So it looks like my issue was a combination of a bit of wear here and a bit of wear there.  It all compounded to reduce the travel of the clutch assembly.  What I did to resolve the issue of having barely any clutch adjustment was an assortment of repairs:

 

* Clutch pedal actuator that attaches to the pedal was worn on the pin and actuator hole was elongated.  Welded up both, and re-drilled at 2" centre to centre as per previous entries.  These actuators are available at Rarespares (when in stock).  This removed any slack from the pedal being engaged to the actuator pulling on the rod.

 

* Clutch pedal to rat trap rod that connects pedal to the rat trap was stretched, so ball stoppers were pulled back from original location quite a few mm.  New replacement removed the slack.

 

* Rat trap wasn't all LC/J, there was some HK parts still there so returned to all LC/J and welded / re-drilled holes to remove any wear and slack.

 

* Clutch fork was slightly bent, replaced it with known good one, also anti-rattle spring was originally incorrectly fitted. 

 

* Punched out pivot ball from bell housing and added a 2mm washer behind it to space it out for more leverage.

 

That's it, good as new, a pleasure to drive and I'm not cursing the rat trap in my sleep.  Hopefully this thread helps others to know where to look with similar issues.

 

 

 

[grumpy xu1]

Excellent news mate. It's great how we all help each other. Best thing now is, it should be good for quite a while now.