103 replies to this topic

[StephenSLR]

Yeah the master is the HR style one, you can also alter the effort by moving the pushrod up the pedal a bit if you have the stroke to spare.

I had someone else install mine, it was welded from what I remember, I'm not sure if it's in the best spot but I'd have to cut it and re-weld to do that right?

s

[76lxhatch]

Most are just bolted through a hole in the pedal. Hard to say without seeing it but anything is possible, re-welding a pedal isn't really a major drama anyway. What is the pedal to fork/slave ratio like though?

[LXCHEV]

Yep I understood that Craig.... but that last pic is toryman's car. The first two pics are my car, which does not have a captive nut, it only has a locating hole, the stud, and the huge hole. I ended up working it out ok though, but it's totally different to toryman's pic.

This weekend I'm hoping to have another crack at the car if I get some shed time. I'll be swapping my V8 thrust bearing with the V6 one.

When you've done this in the past Craig with the BH40 bellhousing, TF9 fork, and V6 thurst bearing, did you have any clearance issues with regards to fork/pressure plate/or bellhousing? Keen to hear what mods might be required before I dummy up the new bearing. With the current V8 bearing my fork is hitting the pressure plate, but I'm hoping the V6 bearing will resolve this issue.

[LXCHEV]

Ok another update. Snuck in a few more hours on the mighty Torry today.

Attempt #2 - partial fail.... more swearing Read on for details...

To continue the photos of the conversion though first, here is the new pedal fitted. First photo shows where it hits the body. Second photo shows the cut-out section allowing clearance, and lots of dripping paint to seal it up. I should have dropped the steering column so I could get in there easier!





Here's some shots comparing the old factory pedal with the new cable pedal:







This was the old factory setup:



The new cable system:





Attempt #1 was done using the original V8 thrust bearing pictured below. I hoped it would work, even though the clearance is pretty big. But it slipped straight off as soon as any pressure was applied:



So here's the new V6 thrust bearing on the left:



It locates bloody awesome on the throwout fork, nice and snug:





And finally, here's where I'm up to at present with the new bearing in place;
I've modified the bellhousing some more to allow the fork to sit back further (in the resting position), and I've screwed the pivot ball nearly all the way in.
I wanted to get absolute maximum throw, so having the fork as far back as possible to start with was key. The photo doesn't actually show it very clearly, but there is still clearance (just) between the gearbox bolts and the fork. I don't think I can get it back much further now!



BUT it still doesn't work yet :(
As you press the clutch pedal, the throwout fork contacts the pressure plate. In the photo above, on the left side, it touches the circular section. It's so close to working, but just not quite there yet. I didn't have time today to stuff around with cable adjustment / pivot ball adjustments.... that will come next. I hope something works, because I thought the way I'd set everything up was already allowing maximum travel.... but I'll see what I can do. If it doesn't work.... I'm so tempted to take to the pressure plate with a die-grinder to relieve that damn ridge!!!! I only need a couple of mm!!!

Stupid cars :(

[LXCHEV]

Thanks Craig. I had started filing some material away from the rear window in the bellhousing but I was too cautious (see first pic below). I'm going to rip the box out again, and go nuts! I will remove some more material from that area, and also make some clearance notches in the fork to clear the bolts. Fingers crossed that will be enough.

This pic shows the fork window, and also shows where the fork is hitting the pressure plate (top right of photo)...



Some more general pics of the fork about to hit...





Lastly, I thought I would also include a photo of the new firewall position for the cable:



It's interesting to hear the new CRS fork is chunkier than an original. It definitely explains why I've had so much trouble, so it's very re-assuring to hear!

I also wonder if different brands of pressure plates have a shorter ridge in the centre circle. If that was just 5mm less, it'd allow stacks of clearance. My backup plan is to remove the pressure plate and machine off 5mm in a lathe. But I'd rather not do this, as it would mean more stuffing around in the future if I ever had to replace the pressure plate.

Stay tuned guys.... I will report back with attempt #3 soon...

[rexy]

As per Craig, you will need to get the pivot ball screwed out a lot further to get a good result. Happy grinding!

[LXCHEV]

Ok attempt #3 appears successful! THE BEAST LIVES AGAIN

More mods to the bellhousing window to allow the fork to sit back further, and also more mods to the fork itself to thin it out a little, and a few notches for particular bolts etc. I have so much clearance now it's not funny.

With the fork in the rear-most position (clutch dis-engaged), the thrust bearing now actually sits flush against the gearbox, whereas previously it still had approx 5-7mm gap. I need to fine-tune the adjustment a little, but presently the clutch pedal is a tiny bit higher than the brake pedal.... pressing it approx a quarter of the way down disengages the clutch, if I continue to press the pedal all the way to the floor it just opens up the clutch plate clearance even more, and the best news is that the fork still clears the pressure plate by a mile, even at full travel - I have mm's of clearance still. This is with the pivot ball adjusted several turns out (as much as I could go out without pre-loading it).

Anyway, the pedal feels fantastic, it's extremely easy to press - exactly like everyone has said about this conversion. The mighty hatchback survived it's first test-drive this arvo, yay. Nothing better than cruising your car again after it's been off the road for a couple of months.

It will take some getting used to the different clutch pedal though - I'm used to a clutch engaging right off the floor, but now it engages right up near pedal height. This is what I hope to adjust in a little bit more, but even like this, it's still nice to drive. The replacement supra box I bought off Ebay has also proven to be a winner too, heaps nicer than my old one which was getting pretty tired.

Here's the final couple of pics....







And here's our young fella Brocky helping out Dad....

[mr5000]

im putting the same clutch pedal hook on mine at the moment brett and run into the same prob with that bracket i saw that and being 5 oclock i gave up is there enough room to get a grinder in there or is the metal thin enough to use tin snips

[LXCHEV]

You're talking about the body panel where the new hook hits right?

I think the best bet would be a small die grinder or a dremel. Not enough room to get a normal size grinder in there. You'd be pushing it with tin snips - but worth a shot.

I'm a glutton for punishment, with limited tools here, so manually cut it out using a hacksaw blade!

[mr5000]

haha ive got a real bad habbit of collecting tools so i think i should have something in the arsenal that sould do the job

[LXCHEV]

Craig,

I actually had a feeling I put the spring on the wrong way. I just copied how my old pedal had been setup. When I get a chance I'll swap it around 180.

Do you run a return spring on the throwout fork with these conversions? It's another thing I've been pondering. At the moment, I have no return spring on mine. Even with my old setup I never had one either. Yet some people say they are very important to run.

When you say 'constant run thrust bearing' - does this means it's always in contact with the pressure plate or something else??

If you can find the time, I would still love to see all your pics & measurements and stuff.

[fuzzypumper]

One thing I did notice tonight in your pics is that the spring on your clutch pedal is the wrong way around. This system has a constant run thrust bearing & also requires light load on the clutch cable to stop the adjusting nut loosening itself off during a cruise.

Cheers
Craig

Seriously? a constant running bearing? would that really last long?

[rodomo]

Seriously? a constant running bearing? would that really last long?

Not alot of hydraulic clutches around these days with adjustment, some cable ones still do.
UC and VB+ Commodores have constant running thrusts.
The cable adjustment just alters the pedal height.

[LXCHEV]

Awesome, good to know. Thanks again Craig.

[StephenSLR]

It looks like I may be up for a new clutch.  I was experiencing clutch judder a while back, jumped back into the car after a month or so and now the pedal is really low to bite, so low I'm sometimes having difficulty selecting gears.

 

I think either it needs adjusting, the fork is bent or I'm up for a new clutch plate.

 

What's the best plate to get these days and from whom?

 

I already have the 5 speed in from previously.

 

s

Edited by StephenSLR, 30 June 2014 - 11:50 PM.

[TerrA LX]

Dyna truck clutch plate is a good off the shelf replacement, careful brand selection is needed to fit the Holden 1 tonner pressure plate.

Make sure you have your pressure plate on hand when at the counter.

[StephenSLR]

Dyna truck clutch plate is a good off the shelf replacement, careful brand selection is needed to fit the Holden 1 tonner pressure plate.

Make sure you have your pressure plate on hand when at the counter.

 

I'm not sure what pressure plate I have. So is there enough variation to choose another clutch plate or would I have to get myself another pressure plate?

 

s

Edited by StephenSLR, 01 July 2014 - 04:24 PM.

[TerrA LX]

The outer diameter of the clutch spring pack needs to fit inside the inner diameter of the pressure plate face.
Hope that makes sense.

Different brands etc have slightly different diameters which will foul when you try to put the clutch plate onto the pressure plate.

That's why you need your pressure plate on hand, any good reputable clutch shop should be able to help you.PBR fitted mine but may not fit yours...

[hainzy]

The standard length V8 tailshaft with the CRS extended slip yoke is the correct set up.

The BH82 bell housing is 5/8ths (16mm) shorter than the V8 Aussie 4sp bell housing, so the slip yoke that CRS supplies is 5/8ths longer & accepts the standard RUJ2030 uni joint.

Fit new premium joints & get it balanced though (or get the balancing co. to supply & fit uni's).

The supra conversion behind a 6cyl requires a 25mm (from memory, although something clicking at 19mm) SHORTER tailshaft, as the length of the supra/celica input shaft is longer than a 6 cyl Aussie 4sp (or 3sp).

 

Hi guys. Just doing a bit of googling and dug up this old thread.

 

I have an LX which I just took the aussie 4 speed out of, and replaced it with a supra 5 speed. I understand i can connect the extended supra yoke and itll be the right length to go back in. But can anyone clarify how long its supposed to be? Because for some reason Ive accumulated 2 different slightly longer supra yokes. Im not sure if I need to use the much longer one or the slightly longer one? The much longer one also has bigger cap size too, so the middle size one would be better...

 

Heres a photo. The green one in the middle is the aussie 4 speed yoke. Cheers for any info....    

 

[hainzy]

Anyone have any ideas on this? Im thinking Ill just put the slightly longer one in and see how it goes..