729 replies to this topic

[73SUNBURSTEXYOUWON]

Wank factor for the HP

early Holden nut

Hi Clay, can i ask where you bought or who made up your twin carby fuel lines??

They look neat and trouble free.
I was mentioning them to a mate.

Thanks,
Jaso

[Bruiser]

I'm still boggling about the .005" lash

Do you mean .005 crush?

If this is so, how much of a turn gives you .005?

[claysummers]

Jaso,
Thanks for the compliment mate. I bent and flared them up from a roll of 5/16” annealed copper tube from Car Parts Plus. Total outlay about $70 for T union, six tube nuts and 6metre roll of tube. I have a few bent up bits that weren’t quite right and had to redo, but still plenty of tube left over. I would have liked to run it all in the same plane with the needle and seat unions but my flaring tool requires a minimum length of pipe to flare, and the tube nuts were relatively long. This meant the T union clashed with the rocker cover so bending it down 90deg was my solution. I don’t braze and didn’t want to use hose. Yes I’m happy with it. Turned out well. Not sure how it will go when I put spacers to lift up the carbs. I may need to replace the pipe down to the pump.

I think my mate will make me up a pair of spacers to lift the jugs up so I can get proper WOT, and also to plumb the PCV. Looking at the master parts catalogue it seems they came factory with heat insulators, which would have lifted them up, but my carby guy didn’t seem to think them necessary. I think he is more of a Holley Weber guru but was local and willing and they seem to be running good although with no exhaust yet it has to sound pretty awesome right?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[claysummers]

Bruce yeah 5thou lash, not crush like it should be. I’ve done 5000miles as I said without issue. Although a bit noisy when cold. I’ll get the cover off soon and snick them up, so don’t lose any more sleep mate.

Thanks for your interest fellas.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Bruiser]

Not trying to rub your nose in a mistake, just surprised
you've done that many miles with no problem.
Clearly it can be gotten away with.
I'm going to stash that one away in my library of
useless but amazing fireside holden 6 facts.

If you are at the same fireside,
it's yours and I will just have to back you up

[73SUNBURSTEXYOUWON]

Jaso,
Thanks for the compliment mate. I bent and flared them up from a roll of 5/16” annealed copper tube from Car Parts Plus. Total outlay about $70 for T union, six tube nuts and 6metre roll of tube. I have a few bent up bits that weren’t quite right and had to redo, but still plenty of tube left over. I would have liked to run it all in the same plane with the needle and seat unions but my flaring tool requires a minimum length of pipe to flare, and the tube nuts were relatively long. This meant the T union clashed with the rocker cover so bending it down 90deg was my solution. I don’t braze and didn’t want to use hose. Yes I’m happy with it. Turned out well. Not sure how it will go when I put spacers to lift up the carbs. I may need to replace the pipe down to the pump.

I think my mate will make me up a pair of spacers to lift the jugs up so I can get proper WOT, and also to plumb the PCV. Looking at the master parts catalogue it seems they came factory with heat insulators, which would have lifted them up, but my carby guy didn’t seem to think them necessary. I think he is more of a Holley Weber guru but was local and willing and they seem to be running good although with no exhaust yet it has to sound pretty awesome right?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Cheers Clay,
Thanks for the DIY info you have shared, much appreciated.
I'm not sure how handy my mate is, but will pass on.

Jaso

[S pack]

I'm still boggling about the .005" lash

Do you mean .005 crush?

If this is so, how much of a turn gives you .005?

.005" lash would normally be set using a .005" feeler gauge between the valve tip and rocker arm with the lifter on the base circle of the camshaft.
 

edit: just saw explanation/discussion about the lash in recent posts. I'll go back to my nanna nap now.

Edited by S pack, 28 November 2021 - 06:51 PM.

[claysummers]

I’ve been looking in to plumbing up PCV to my X2 setup. From the US I can get spacers for BVOX-2 base. The X2 bodies are BVUX-2, which means the only difference is that the spacer bores would have a 4mm step in, then back out to the base of the manifold. I wonder if this is likely to create mixture issues.

The spacers are available in a 1/2” phenolic @ $104.43 gst inc delivered, or a 1” aluminium @ $136.68 gst inc delivered. I don’t think bonnet clearance will be an issue. My mate did make me a pair from a couple of old alloy timing gears but I’m not impressed with them.

Any thoughts folks?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Bruiser]

Wow, they're pricey. Is $200+ worth the headaches of making your own?
If they are 4mm smaller than your baseplate, I'd want them just
bigger than carby, but not bigger than manifold hole
Drill press, bandsaw and belt linisher (or upside-down belt sander),to make
them a nice matching diamondy shape
I believe Bxuv-2 are 1 3/32 base hole, so 28mm holesaw would do it
with some careful measuring to stud holes
10mm vac hose, so 15mm-ish slab of aluminium
Locate suitable tube

Not sure of the best way to get the tube permanently glued and sealed up tho.
Araldite or something similar heat and fuel proof?

Bit of work, maybe enjoyable?

Easy to say it's easy when someone else has to do it

[claysummers]

Jono is sending me a road draft tube. I set the stilsons on to the linkage and now getting virtually wot. Just not quite reversing to eliminate the screw shadow.

Standard size 2 SAE flange is 1 7/16” barrel. BXUV is 1/8” undersized and BXOV is 1/8” oversized. I could port the manifold flange. As you say could just make some. Tube can be friction fit with gasket goo.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[claysummers]

Managed to get the X2 setup working beautifully after initial setbacks. The rear carb was flooding. I reset float level, no. I changed needle and seat but still did it. Changed float and pin, same same. Changed needle and seats to viton tipped ones and fixed the problem.

I did some further mods on the original FB accelerator linkage and now getting WOT. Fitted walking stick, thanks Jono. No need for spacers now.

Starts with a flick of the key. No throttle, no choke. Idles smoothly at 550rpm. Pickup vastly improved and no flat spot off idle.

Car passed inspection for engine and brake upgrade yesterday.

8 ) 8 ) 8 )



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[claysummers]

Busted another rocker arm 30km from home. There was a tell-tale ticking at low revs 10km prior, at which point I should have turned tail, but De ided to press on for a Friday arvo surf. I didn't feel like nursing it home on busy Victor Harbor Road on a hot Friday arvo so called the RAA and came home on a tilt tray.

My cam has a fairly high lift but stockist overlap/duration, with springs to suit. Rocker arms are a mixture selected from various old motors. They were set with 005 lash which I know isn't right. Well got a chance to adjust them now.

Being the second time this has happened since I assembled the motor in May I suspect something awry. Going away to look up the cam specs.

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

[claysummers]

It is a dynotec CM205D - DYNOTEC CAMSHAFT HYD STAGE 2 FITS HOLDEN 6 DUR 214°/214° LIFT 429"/429"

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Edited by claysummers, 17 December 2021 - 05:32 PM.

[I'm a Red Motor fiend]

Roller rockers are cheap and better than fatigued 50 year old pressed steel.

Then set the preload properly.

[claysummers]

Yella Terra ones ain’t cheap. Any recommendations?
These came up:

https://www.mydeal.c...68-4-69-6273723


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[claysummers]

I don’t really want to be taking the head off for machining. I’m looking for a bolt on solution.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[claysummers]

Roller rockers are cheap and better than fatigued 50 year old pressed steel.

Then set the preload properly.

Yes, I’m thinking these crudely manufactured old rocker arms are at the end of their life. And yes was going to adjust them this weekend anyway.

I wonder if these are bolt up. https://www.ebay.com...-154756-20017-0


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Bruiser]

Are they getting plenty of oil?
Are those pivot balls the non-grooved type?
How strong are your valve springs?

Those crow rockers look like a decent buy,
If the cam lift and spring pressure don't put too much
demand on the pressed in posts, they should be ok to
go straight on without screw in studs.
I have no idea of the limits of that demand, though.
Your motor hasn't pulled them out, so would think it'd
be fine

[claysummers]

Plenty of oil Bruce. By memory a couple of the pivots were grooved. I will look in to that. Thanks for the advice. Chrissy present for the ute.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[claysummers]

Ross Romeo at Lonsdale engines specd the springs to suit the cam. I mentioned roller rockers to him at the time and he said not necessary, and that they would require additional machining. Either tapped threads or pegging, I don’t know.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[warrenm]

Are the spring retainers hitting the valve guides? I had a similar problem with a Holden head many years ago, after a set of guides were replaced, they were left too high. You can get new pressed metal rockers.

https://www.ebay.com...lBoCXpMQAvD_BwE

 

These are 1.6:1 ratio if you have the clearance.

https://www.vpw.com....rts/CRA-11802-1

Edited by warrenm, 17 December 2021 - 10:47 PM.

[claysummers]

Thanks Warren. I will check clearance and spring bind. Those rockers don’t work out much cheaper than the extruded ones.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[LCK186]

Hi just read your thread about a Brocken rocker issue, a similar problem happened to me, you have a 429 lift camshaft, I would check the push rods, there are 2 length sizes  by memory, I removed the long ones and replaced them with the shorter ones,  something to ask your mechanic,  

[I'm a Red Motor fiend]

Bruce is right about the press in studs, they should be fine as that lift is still only moderate.
The crow rollers would be fine and will bolt on no machining.
Early style head so should be the longer 9.136" push rod.
Check for coil bind, full lift and check the contact patch on the valve tip most importantly.
Then do not set up with any lash!!! Hydraulic lifters need preload on them. Find zero lash, then set the preload.

[S pack]

Bruce is right about the press in studs, they should be fine as that lift is still only moderate.
The crow rollers would be fine and will bolt on no machining.
Early style head so should be the longer 9.136" push rod.
Check for coil bind, full lift and check the contact patch on the valve tip most importantly.
Then do not set up with any lash!!! Hydraulic lifters need preload on them. Find zero lash, then set the preload.

Agree Adam, if the engine builder deemed the weight of the valve springs shouldn't require pinning of the rocker studs for the std pressed rockers then they won't need pinning for roller rockers.

Go the roller rockers Clay, there is a bolt on solution to suit your application.