738 replies to this topic

[claysummers]

Thanks fellas, I’m on it.


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[Bruiser]

1.6 ratio rockers will pull a bit harder against the studs

[S pack]

1.6 ratio rockers will pull a bit harder against the studs

Agree, stick with the std 1.5:1 ratio.
 

[claysummers]

Yes the pushrods are 9.136" thanks. Yes ordered 1.5 ratio rockers. Don't want to put more stress on things thanks.

Three piece rocker arm. I hope I got all the bits. I suppose the roller rockers will fit under original cover? I was going to put one on with 179X2 decal.

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[73SUNBURSTEXYOUWON]

Clay, Did you also check during assembly, at full lift (using a locked up hyd. or solid lifter), that the pressed steel rocker arm slot, was not smashing into the rocker stud.

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[claysummers]

I didn't Jaso. Just flung on the cleanest tidyest 12 I had.

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[claysummers]

Was going to put factory cover on with X2 decal but need the tall cover. Stripped off the black with small wire brush on the drill and clean and strip disc.

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[rexy]

I think in the absence of evidence that your rockers are binding on anything that you are seeing the results of fatigue from not running them with the correct preload. Every time they are activated they get a whack from the valve train and this cumulative fatigue is showing.

 

Millions of holdens have survived for ever with those stamped steel factory rockers set up correctly.

[I'm a Red Motor fiend]

I think in the absence of evidence that your rockers are binding on anything that you are seeing the results of fatigue from not running them with the correct preload. Every time they are activated they get a whack from the valve train and this cumulative fatigue is showing.

Millions of holdens have survived for ever with those stamped steel factory rockers set up correctly.

Yep.

[claysummers]

Thanks rexy yes. Slow learner. When I adjusted them this morning they all had some preload varying from zip to one turn. Going good now and roller rockers due after Christmas. Thanks to Jaso for the EH workshop manual specs. Now set to one turn of preload.

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[claysummers]

Finally these turned up


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[claysummers]

Ready to adjust these after I get the battery charged up.
Some of the old arms look pretty dodgy now I look at them. Pre existing damage I should have noticed initially rather than just throwing them on. They were from a mixture of old heads so who knows?The opposing surfaces are all fine.

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[claysummers]

All adjusted and torqued up on the posi-locks, snuck out the back straight up to 120kmk in second, 4900rpm i think. It was sure worth the dough I threw at getting everything balanced. Revving very sweetly 8 ) 8 )


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[claysummers]

Engine has been running a bit fluffy at light throttle so I pulled the plugs to have a lookFront three have a fair carbon build up. The rest are a nice brown. I'm wondering if front carb is a bit rich. Champion NI 2 Y on 98 unleaded. Though they look fine, I will get some new ones. Any suggestions?

Might try leaning out the idle on front carb.

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[Rockoz]

Spent an afternoon at Oran Park many years ago watchin unofficial practice.

A couple of crews in particular as they were working together.

Sports Sedans from memory.

When they checked the plugs for colour it was after a run at full noise down the straight, then the engine shut off pretty much at top revs.

They towed the car back to the pit area then checked the plugs.

They had banks of plugs of different temp ranges as well as an aluminium plate loaded up with multiples of every jet size and power valve size.

 

Does the colour really matter if the engine has been idling?

 

I know it is different applications, race vs street.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[claysummers]

I don’t know Rob, but the over rich idle fits with the symptoms I’m having. Now I’ve done a few miles on these jugs and settled them in I can see a few things that need fettling, like shortening the screw in one of the idle stops. The X2s are a tad agricultural but wank factor is up in my book.


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[claysummers]

Then again, this could be something to do with it

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[I'm a Red Motor fiend]

I would pull 2 degrees timing out also.

[Rockoz]

New rotor and cap for sure

 

Cheers 

 

Rob

[claysummers]

I would pull 2 degrees timing out also.

Any elaboration on that Adam?

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[Bruiser]

Hiya, clay

Yep, that kinglead to rotor contact is tiptop,
surprised it isn't running worse than a bit fluffy
How old are those plugs? Even the bit outside of the head looks cruddy
Rotor, cap and plugs might get rid of the fluffies
Those crow rockers look like a good buy, too

[claysummers]

Hi Bruce,
Yes the Crow rockers a bit under $300 peace of mind.

I was surprised how well it was running. I got 12.5 litres/100km on a recent tank full. The plugs were from the previous motor and in it when I painted it a dark grey hence they look grotty. But they had only done nominal km in that motor.

I'm looking forward to running it after this ignition freshen up. The leads appear to be good. I suppose I could test resistance and clean them.

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[Bruiser]

Hopefully tha will de-fluff it all and she runs perfecto

At least if you still need to you can start on the carbs
knowing the ignition is as good can be

[claysummers]

Could be to do with power bypass operating when it shouldn't. Blocked vacuum signal, spring, dirty etc. But the carbs were rebuilt by a reputable bloke.

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[I'm a Red Motor fiend]

What Rob says is accurate, to read plugs you should shut down at WOT.

Looking at those though you can still see the colour change on the ground strap is too close to the thread. It should be in the middle of the apex.
Closer to the thread indicates more timing than needed for the efficiency of the head.