738 replies to this topic

[Bruiser]

I have the flimsy easy to bend side to side 4 hole link arms too. Those billet ones look tops, and I have read on here somewhere they grip well and are sturdy.
I have doubled up the one with the main return spring(s) on it by mounting another one back to back with it and that gives it plenty of support.
It’s a pain to discover the ones with the throttle links to be slightly bent sometimes (somehow) after doing a thorough sync job, wish I had done it to all of them before setting them up
If you have enough to do it Clay, could be a good idea now while it’s still all apart?

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Not so much all the other gubbins, that would be a prototype of a backyard work in progress

Edited by Bruiser, 19 June 2023 - 05:47 PM.

[klevliend]

In doing mine I also had issues matching the pedal travel to the throw of the accelerator cable arm, and that arm then clearing the manifold, extractors and other bits and bobs. Then I needed a fairly stiff return spring, and only had one of the flimsy arms to hold it. It rounded off on the shaft while I was still setting the linkages up, so putting two back to back would definitely be cheap insurance.
Looks like you have a nice set up on yours to accommodate the accelerator cable

[claysummers]

Mine are the pressed ones however I reckon they are two sided, and they have positive engagement with the hex shaft. Think I will stick with them. The setup I ratted them from is a Lynx 202 manifold, and the pedestals were mounted on studs tapped into bosses on the manifold. Looked like a good setup, but firewall clearance precluded using that setup.


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[Bruiser]

Yours are the same as the ones I am talking about, Clay. The bendy part is the long side with the 4 holes in.
They don’t take much to bend them sideways a bit.

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Nice?? Thanks, klevliend
If you Are talking about the black gadget the cable rides in, that was an attempt to
Improve on the off idle throttle response being too sudden and almost violent
I found I couldn’t roll off gently from a standstill and ended up with aching ankles and shins trying to
baby the pedal so much. Found that elliptical thing on some little Hyundai-ish car.
It’s like having a long link to the hex shaft to start with, and it gets shorter as it approaches full throttle.
Sort of gears the system down initially. Looks a bit ugly, and it’s a subtle difference but works pretty well.
Along with some smarty pants changes to the rod geometry, I can crawl off the mark now without
too much trouble.
The other weird bit is for adjusting the idle with a master screw, got sick of re-adjusting the idle with the 3
carb screws and the synchronising tool each time I buggered with the timing.
The alloy bit with spring and screw is a lump hacked off an old ruined Holley baseplate
All these start out life as an experimental prototype to be remade later nicely
but usually end up staying put once working acceptably heheh

The bodgy bracket is mounted to the bodgy throttle cable bracket which is mounted to hole #3
in the hex shaft bracket. Because of the strongish master return spring, it flexed all over the place.
The brassy 90degree rose joint pedestal mount (or whatever the hell they are called) bracket flexed too.

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These buggers - hex shaft rose joint bracket?

Enter one brace from manifold to throttle cable bracket. Not too bad now.

Good fun, eh?

Good thing you are a crack problem solver and all round clever feller Clay

[claysummers]

Yeh ok you’re right about the levers by the look. Dunno about th3 clever bit. I’m good at breaking things though….


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[Bruiser]

Says the man who mini tubbed his fb van in his own shed…
I wish I could weld half as good as you
My idea of a weld is to put araldite in birdseed,
put the bits of metal out in the open
and hope the birds crap in the right spot

[warrenm]

I've also got the same style linkage kit, mines a touch loose though, and the pedestals are tapped directly into the manifold which is less than ideal.
Eventually I'm aiming to replace all the linkages and use a bracket off the carb like you are. I wondering though, what are people's thoughts on the more expensive billet style arms? Are they worth the extra expense or just a bit of unnecessary flashy kit?

Can also say, I used one of the SU Midel conversions for the spring to fixed style needle. Was dead easy and very effective

I made the alloy arms for my setup as I broke a couple while at the track, the engine runs very flat when you lose one carb at full noise.

[claysummers]

That’s very funny Bruce. You’ve got that VK going pretty good anyway.

Setup I picked up has three return springs which look a bit agricultural and I thought excessive. I’ll probably stick with it though.


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[Bruiser]

I reckon they are a good thing, each carb gets a nice positive return to idle, and nicely lined up in the opposite direction of the upward pulling linkage.
I wish I had made up a version of this while my set was on the bench.

It looks like you have two flat style and one round rod style choke links there
I have one of those flat ones here on my spare carb you can have if you need it

That carb had a TW needle in it , so I bought two brand newies
Just discovered the old one is a bit shorter than the others, so need another one to make the set perfect
I will compare the profiles with a micrometer, maybe still ok to give them a try, the needle tip doesn’t come into play much, (I think)
Some su books describe the last stations as “not used”
Just to let you know before you order in any bits you need

I’ll have to sweeten our deal up somehow

[claysummers]

Yes I like plenty of spring pressure as long as they don't foul. There is no hurry on needles. While I'm setting up the linkages I will also work on relocating the battery. I want an isolation switch somewhere handy but inconspicuous while I'm at it. Then I'll have to tidy up the battery tray. Might be able to convert it into a cold air intake.

Bring the beast down the back way and get those pipes. It's a nice run.

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[klevliend]

I made the alloy arms for my setup as I broke a couple while at the track, the engine runs very flat when you lose one carb at full noise.

Thats pretty extreme, though I've read a bit about your set up on the forums before and your profile pic makes me think the car can be a bit, umm, violent haha

Mine is also a ute (HR though) and I relocated the battery to under the tray, installed an buttery shut off behind the bench seat while I was at it, happy I did its very convenient, easy to access but you'd struggle to find it if you didn't already know it was there.

As for cold air intakes there's a guy on the HD HR Holden facebook page toying with a scoop at the very front of the bonnet and modifying the radiator support to allow free flowing air, I'm keen to see how it turns out. There's quite a few Triple SU setups running good looking cold air intake boxes. Its on my to-do list, as I've still got the crappy pancake style filters 

[claysummers]

I'll have a look at that page thanks klevinad. Your battery setup sounds similar to what I'm thinking. Im looking for a source for a firewall pass through fitting at a reasonable price. I've got plenty of cable about 12mm diameter. Just need lugs and isolation switch.

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[yel327]

On a HK-HG cold air is easy, use a duct straight to the plenum via where the heater air comes from. Where the plate in the attached link (without the holes) goes on a non-forced air car. It’s a shame you don’t get that luxury on earlier Holdens.

https://www.ebay.com...kevt=1&mkcid=28

[claysummers]

Not sure if I want to do it, but my idea is a removable ally sheet panel kissing up around the sports filters between radiator support and firewall, basically shielding the engine, with an opening to the grille area in front of where the battery is now.

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[warrenm]

Thats pretty extreme, though I've read a bit about your set up on the forums before and your profile pic makes me think the car can be a bit, umm, violent haha

Mine is also a ute (HR though) and I relocated the battery to under the tray, installed an buttery shut off behind the bench seat while I was at it, happy I did its very convenient, easy to access but you'd struggle to find it if you didn't already know it was there.

As for cold air intakes there's a guy on the HD HR Holden facebook page toying with a scoop at the very front of the bonnet and modifying the radiator support to allow free flowing air, I'm keen to see how it turns out. There's quite a few Triple SU setups running good looking cold air intake boxes. Its on my to-do list, as I've still got the crappy pancake style filters 

Not really violent, 7200revs & step off the clutch.

[Uncle Chop Chop]

So it's more slip, slop and slap?

[claysummers]

Been mucking around setting up linkages over the weekend.The cast in balance tube is very close to the front two throttle levers on WOT.I filed the edge down for clearence. Plenty of meat in it I hope. Also canted the pedestals to upright to improve clearence but I don't like the geometry. I need to get some pedestal bolts today and will keep playing.I figure I need the velocity stacks on to balance idle flows, and they look cool.

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[claysummers]

On the hunt for some phenolic or similar spacers to improve clearence

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[Bruiser]

Looking good there Clay
I made a spacer for a Holley out of an offcut of 6mm meter board panel, pretty sure it’s
the right stuff. If I can find the remains of it I will chuck it in your goodybag
if you want to have a crack at making some
They are available, $20 - $30ish each
Will have a better look tomorrow and let you know

[RallyRed]

Not sure if I want to do it, but my idea is a removable ally sheet panel kissing up around the sports filters between radiator support and firewall, basically shielding the engine, with an opening to the grille area in front of where the battery is now.

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There must be million ways to do it but here is our version.

Attached Files

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Edited by RallyRed, 26 June 2023 - 09:49 PM.

[claysummers]

Pretty much along the lines I am thinking. That pressed ally would be nice and light.

Ordered some of these spacers: https://www.ebay.com...emis&media=COPY

[yel327]

Looking good there Clay
I made a spacer for a Holley out of an offcut of 6mm meter board panel, pretty sure it’s
the right stuff. If I can find the remains of it I will chuck it in your goodybag
if you want to have a crack at making some
They are available, $20 - $30ish each
Will have a better look tomorrow and let you know

 

Be careful with that meter board panel. If its old dispose of it properly as it'll be full of asbestos.

[claysummers]

Thanks Bruce. Thought about it but lashed out on eBay. Starting to add up as I had to get some bits to relocate the battery. I'm adding in a battery isolation switch. Just a manual one, in an inconspicuous but accessible spot in the cabin.

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[Rockoz]

Be careful with that meter board panel. If its old dispose of it properly as it'll be full of asbestos.

 

My neighbour was the local accredited asbestos testing technician until his retirement.

We were talking asbestos the other day.

Switchboard panels arent an issue due to the bonding in manufacture. Doesnt matter what you do with it, it doesnt produce the particle sizes associated with asbestosis.

Would still be wary of it regardless.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[yel327]

I've seen the risk assessments (JSA's etc) for those retrofitting smart meters. As far as they are concerned the old (pre 90's roughly) boards contain asbestos and there is a risk associated with it. Most Energy Authorities publish information on it, examples below. So I agree, be wary. If there was no risk this sort of stuff would not be published.

 

Microsoft Word - Fact Sheet - Asbestos in Electrical Meter Boards 131209.docx (ausgrid.com.au)

 

Electrical switchboards and meters | Asbestos

Edited by yel327, 27 June 2023 - 11:48 AM.