738 replies to this topic

[yel327]

That sort of cable is generally specialist supply, comes from suppliers that sell to switchboard and motor control centre builders. Sometimes you can buy 50sqmm or 70sqmm from welding supply shops in double insulated 0.6/1kV but ignore the current ratings on them as those are for welding cable. Brands like Aflex, Siemens, Varolex etc. Locally to me it is Hunter Engineering Sales or sometimes Bambach (who have now closed locally). There will be someone in Perth that sells it, L&H will be able to order it for you. You'd only need 35sqmm though, but you do need proper lugs and compression tool.

 

You do have it running along the floor uncontrolled and unprotected though. For my car I'd rather see that under the car, where exposed inside thick heater hose held by refrigerant line straps or similar, like those in the link below. I've bought them in bulk before locally:

N10236603 - Volkswagen A/c refrigerant line clamp | Carter Volkswagen, Seattle WA (cartervw.com)

[claysummers]

I am a bit sus about having it uncovered on the floor so will put some hose around it and run along the bottom of the trans hump where it won't be noticeable and also less exposed. Thanks for the advice.

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[claysummers]

I gave the manifold smell judicious grinding to help clear the manifold nuts. Along with the 12 point nuts it wil fit ok.

All my bits have arrived now.
Battery relocation is near complete but still have to finish mounting.and remove this
No club runs until September so no more excuses.

Mocked up with spacers and linkages are looking much better.
Next step is to work out the cable mount/ centre pedestal bracket.

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[claysummers]

Though really, I should be getting on with this:

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Edited by claysummers, 05 July 2023 - 06:14 PM.

[claysummers]

Completed mounting battery
Linkage and cable set up on the car
Using a modified HX V8 cable.

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[claysummers]

Made some room
I need to blend the paint more better......

And re-kit the carbs. Unfortunately I have to go away for a couple if weeks for work.

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[Bruiser]

Plenty progress there, nice work

[claysummers]

I’ve had the nuts on and off the centre carb more times than I’d like getting the cable bracket right. The top right nut is a bugger due to lack of clearance to the suction chamber.

Actually next thing is to set up the fuel delivery. I’m planning to use 5/16” copper tube as it matches the pump outlet and I’ve got a few metres of it. Consensus seems to be a regulator is essential, yet I have a couple of mates running SUs and webers straight off blue motor pumps. I want to plumb a reg just before the carbs but ideally 45degree 5/16” flare coupling. If it gets too hard I will use barbs and hose.


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[warrenm]

I set my regulator & fuel manifold on the inner guard to keep it away from the heat of the headers, something to think about.

[claysummers]

Yer I see that many do that Warren. I am running ceramic coated cast headers and not putting out huge power so not concerned about it. Pipes will be in free air flow away from headers. Most of the time my motor runs cooler than I’d like.


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[RallyRed]

Hi Clay, we run 45 /48 Webers/ Dellortos on our LJs.
I remember the race car on the rollong dyno, and old mate adjusting the pressure regulator ( near the brake booster). Holley blue pump/ Carter electric - cant remember which car it was). Assume that means at certain revs/ load/ idle/ WOT,or whatever the pressure ( 3.5 psi from memory) is important. I think I recall the carbs dribble if the pressure is too high.
Re the temp. just thinking the reported temp of the engine is just a little sensor in the head/ thermostat area....extractor area may be totally different to that i.e hot.
Imho.

Edited by RallyRed, 11 July 2023 - 09:48 AM.

[claysummers]

Thanks Col. Those are huge volume pumps for drag racing assume. I've had trouble with flooding in the past ad don't really want a repeat, though this is a pretty stock setup. I'm aware of the temperature issue ut not concerned. As I say delivery pipes will be well clear of manifolds. Main concern around heat is that the rear most float bowl sits quite close above header. I will rig some shielding for that I think.

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[RallyRed]

Heat sheilds = good.
Circuit, not drags.

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[claysummers]

Hell yeah!!

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[claysummers]

Back in the shed after a week away. Setting up fuel lines.
I think the reg will be OK here.
Plenty of air flow from the engine fan.

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[claysummers]

Fuel piping done.

I gave the manifold inlets a port match
The head facings on the manifolds got cleaned up flush with a file to ensure a good seal.

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[claysummers]

Red springs. 4.4oz@2 5/8". Bewdy. Thanks Bruce.

Got the book out.

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[Bruiser]

Looking good
They’ll be on there soon

Edited by Bruiser, 16 July 2023 - 11:52 PM.

[claysummers]

Another week away for work, then new 16kL galv tank and remove the old one over a fence and up a slippery hill. Might not be much progress for a couple of weeks, but yes I’m hopeful Bruce. I’ve worked out the needle centring and once you’ve done one carb…


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[klevliend]

I've heard some not so great things about those style fuel regulators. When I talked about it to the carby expert at B&M Fuel systems he was of the opinion that they're crap and prone to leak and fail. He recommended a Malpassi unit, which I'm pretty sure I've seen Warren is using  in the photos he's posted?

As to whether or not I'd personally change it, I wouldn't and haven't. I run the exact same style regulator on my triple SU. Though I'm planning on upgrading to a Malpassi unit at some point.... they have a nice one that integrates a fuel filter, which would clean up my fuel lines and improve the aesthetics.

The copper fuel lines look magic by the way   
 

[claysummers]

Thanks kleivo. You're not the the first to say it, or to recommend the malpassi. Unfortunately I already committed $125 to what my go to parts people offered. I will keep a close eye on the thing after this.
Carbs are rekitted and final bolted up to manifold about ready to bite the bullet and chuck them on.

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Edited by claysummers, 21 July 2023 - 09:48 PM.

[claysummers]

Bought some vacuum port blanks and when fitting them I realised that one carb has had the barb broken off.This is the vacuum advance port. I could possibly swap the body with one of my spares but I am considering blocking it either with a very small self tapper and a bit of gasket compound, or possibly some solder. Any thoughts?

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[Bruiser]

I tried to straighten one which was bent and it split right where it met the main body cast.
I straightened up again and packed a heap of araldite around it.
Might not be the best thing, but it’s still there

Or jb weld hahaha

[claysummers]

Simply wedged a lump of solder in the hole with a nail punch.

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[Bruiser]

Deep down we’re all just a bunch of bush mechanics