715 replies to this topic

[claysummers]

Not very deep in my case Bruce….


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[claysummers]

Heat shield for the rear fuel bowl.Not pretty but whatever.

Need to plug the manifold heat water outlets. For tidiness I want to run my heater outflow to the lower thermostat housing which runs through passages in the head and block to the water pump inlet. I will tap and plug the water pump barb and top barb on the thermostat housing. For the heater outlet I want to run 1/2" copper from the firewall, in between the inlet and exhaust manifolds to the bottom barb. Plan was to use a tube nut and flare into a female base fitting tapped in to the bottom thermo housing inlet, but I'm having trouble sourcing a female fitting. Plumbing ones have too big a threaded end to fit in the housing barb. I was told fridge fittings may work but haven't sourced anything yet.

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

[claysummers]

Well they fit…
Just
Probably fit the battery back in there minus the big ol’ box now. Need to recess the corner of the firewall about 15mm to fit filters, which will help with clearance to the rear linkage as well.

I wonder if there is any issue with tipping the rear fuel bowl over as it is very close to the header. They can be canted to an extent, I assume to sit level, depending on manifold used.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Bruiser]

You beauty they look good on there

[Bruiser]

Maybe a bit of exhaust heat wrap just in the area near that float bowl?

[claysummers]

I got a bit sidetracked tidying up the heater hoses. Because the inlet manifold I'm using isn't water heated and also because the grey motor heater tap I was running was slightly fouling the rear linkage torque rod I decided to put an idiot light sender in the rear of the head in its place, blank the water pump inlet, and run hard lines o the lower thermostat housing.So I got an alloy lower housing and tapped the outlets to 1/4" BSPT so I could fit NPT (I think) SAE flared 1/2" hard drawn copper pipe. Cost a small fortune in hydraulic fittings. For the heater control I will have a compact ball valve under the dash and join in to the heater core with the original size 1/2" ID hose.

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

[Bruiser]

Looks good Clay
We’re you a plumber in a previous life?

[claysummers]

I was a plumbers best man. There are only two rules in plumbing. Apart from that it is a black art. My fitter mate Brett helped me out with the fittings and thread tap. The alloy housing was on a 161 i bought of a guy really cheap. Had new extractors and WW2 induction and EH sump.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[warrenm]

What you have is 1/4"NPT to #6JIC(hydraulic fittings) also known as -6AN in the USA etc.

Looks good.

[claysummers]

Thanks Warren. All very confusing I must say. I think the npt and bspt are similar enough at that size. I’m happy with the look but more work to do clearing the linkage at the back.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Com_VC]

Where did you get the alloy lower thermostat housing from?

Sent from my SM-N986B using Tapatalk

[claysummers]

I was a plumbers best man. There are only two rules in plumbing. Apart from that it is a black art. My fitter mate Brett helped me out with the fittings and thread tap. The alloy housing was on a 161 i bought of a guy really cheap. Had new extractors and WW2 induction and EH sump.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[claysummers]

Rare spares have them but bit spendy at $250.

Finally kicked in the guts but I should have replaced the manifold gasket as a matter of course. Couldn’t get it to idle below 1200rpm. Bit of heater hose stethoscope I can hear what sounds like sucking on the front pots, so sprayed on some ether and the revs pick up. I have a nice gasket I got together with the one that is on there from one of you when I built the engine, which I didn’t bother changing when I fit the X2 setup. Should be more risk averse I suppose….


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Bruiser]

How was it besides the high idle?

[claysummers]

Started with a massive leak at the middle fuel bowl which was easily sorted. Good on the chokes but high idle. Middle carb was spitting a bit of fuel out the stack. Richened them all about half a turn, middle carb more, but became apparent there is an air leak down stream. New gasket should sort it. I did have the manifold on and off a dozen times, so not replacing the gasket was possibly a bit optimistic.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[claysummers]

I’ve had to walk away from the thing after trying to get it running. There is obviously a vacuum leak after meticulously cleaning all the surfaces and replacing the gasket. I ran a straight edge over the inlet manifold face and thought it looked fairly flush. I made sure all the washers were seating nicely and not binding. I did get it idling about 800rpm. Started playing with mixtures and seems to be very lean. Sprayed ether on top of the inlet and the revs picked up again. Walked away.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Rockoz]

Is there an open vacuum port somewhere?

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[claysummers]

No Rob, nothing that obvious. I've got all three pcv ports and dissy ports capped, along with pcv and booster port on the manifold. It appears to be the manifold face to gasket at front and rear. Sprayed ether, outer ports revs increase, centre port no increase. Thinking to try this:

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

[Rockoz]

Did you tighten from the centre out?

Might just need an extra half turn somewhere too.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[claysummers]

I did. When I got the manifold studs they could only supply coarse/coarse. Not sure what they should be torqued to but at the moment they are just as tight as I’m comfortable with by hand.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[claysummers]

Thanks Rob. Always good to have a sounding board. Twelve point nuts I’m using fit a 7/16 ring spanner. I may be under estimating the torque.

Ne’er had this problem with the coarse brass nuts on the factory bendix stromberg manifolds.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[yel327]

If you don't resolve it Clay try sitting the manifold face(s) on a flat surface with something that will act as a witness material, basically do the same job as bearing blue does. It could be as simple as whiteboard marker with some paper on the flat surface. Just in case there is a twist or similar not quite flat face on the intake. Is the gasket used one of those old-fashioned fibre core with dimpled steel face? Or those pink extractor type gaskets?

[claysummers]

Yes it may come to facing the manifold I suppose. It looked okay to my eye. It is a new gasket I obtained from Jeff lc2dr on this forum, who organised a run of them. Neither one of the pink extractor gasket style, or dimpled. Metal foil either side of fibre sheet I suppose. The last one worked fine on two factory manifolds.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[claysummers]

Manifold off and given a backyard blue print with permanent marker, sheet of glass, and 1200 paper.
Nothing obvious, but dressed with a file ready for reinstall.

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Edited by claysummers, 06 September 2023 - 12:13 PM.

[claysummers]

Refitted with copious smearing of permatex. Patiently waiting for it to cure………..


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk