729 replies to this topic

[claysummers]

These are the mounts I'm using, which I ratted from $250 161 bought a while ago. They are beefed up relative to my originals from factory by the look. I have a suspicinion the brackets im talking about make the block sit further forward.

early Holden nut

[S pack]

Those strengthened engine mount brackets were introduced into 1973 Holden & Torana production. Most likely as part of ADR 10B.

To my knowledge they are fully interchangeable with the previous 6cyl mount bracket and therefore should not change the position of the engine relative to the chassis.

[claysummers]

Thanks Dave. Yeh
Didn't make sense. I speculate plate the old mounts were bodgied. Holes had been notched. Can't remember what o put them now.

Anyway went past engine shop today and only a week away. Most machining is done. Just needs balancing and head assembly. I was lucky to get it done as they have stopped taking orders since. Getting their backlog down.

early Holden nut

[claysummers]

Been 6 1/2 weeks since I dropped it off. Not that I'm in a hurry. Front end is getting the attention. Pete Mallaby on FC forum makes these mounts for HR front end into FE to EH.

early Holden nut

[claysummers]

Motor due back later this week I'm told. Will be using stock 186 Hastings pistons.

I gather the precise machining tolerances these days require less rigorous run in process. I recall lifters need to bed in at around 2000rpm for first 15 minutes running, or something like that. Any oil recommendations, both run in and ongoing? I used to run Corse+ back in the 80s. Trend these days seems to be to run lower viscosity due to better tolerances.

early Holden nut

[claysummers]

Old balancer I was going to reuse has a significant groove so looking around for a new one. Powerbond $128, Dayco $110, Ross $550. What have others used?

Any opinions about running in and best oil as per previous post, please speak up.


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[Bruiser]

I'm using the dynotec pc206 in my 15 year old 10:1 202, next one up from yours, 226@50, cam sheet qoutes .488", rocker ratio 1.6. Weird. Makes it .305 on the cam, and .456" with 1.5s. Maybe this is still the way they do it. Exact copy of waggott 410. Easy to put around in everyday, behaves nicely. Your cam will do you well, - if your idea of mild/wild is anything like mine
Blue/black balancers are a bit thicker than red ones, we used to think they were a small upgrade on the cheap, if you can find one you can trust. Dont forget to use its timing cover too

[Bruiser]

I just re-read your and S pak's exchange regarding your cam earlier. The main point of my previous waffle was the fact that the dynotec sheet uses 1.6 as the ratio. If you dont have your sheet, maybe give the cam a quick measure to be completely sure. If this is the case, and the .429 lift is at 1.6, the lobe should have .268 on it, giving you .402 on the valve using 1.5 knockers. Happy days

[claysummers]

Cheers Bruce and good point. Probably all the better as only a mild street engine. Still I wonder why they do that. I was in some confusion about the rocker ratio which your point may explain. I need to get a new battery for my digital vernier.

early Holden nut

[claysummers]

Yes about the balancer you read my mind as I have a nice blue cover. Always wondered why the reds only went to about 3deg. My radiator is very close to fan being in an FB with 3 core, and timing marks are hard to line up. I always time by ear in any case.

early Holden nut

[claysummers]

Went and bought powerbond 3.3 litre. In hindsight should I have got one for 2.8, considering three inch stroke vs 3.25?

early Holden nut

[S pack]

AFAIK the 2.8 blue balancer is the same as a red balancer except for the revised timing mark.The heavier 3.3 blue balancer was designed to suit the fully counterweighted 3.3 crankshaft.

[claysummers]

It is heavier for sure dave. Think I'll take it back and swap.

early Holden nut

[claysummers]

Another opinion I’ve had on the balancer: bigger is better, and as both motors internally balanced it doesn’t matter. Thinking maybe to stick with the 202 balancer now. Might talk to the engine shop.


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[Bruiser]

Sorry if that was a bumsteer - is the theory that a bit of extra balancer weight couldn't hurt a sound one? Maybe good for balancing that coin on the air cleaner haha

[claysummers]

Time go revisit old jonno.

early Holden nut

[claysummers]

Not a bum steer bruce as was thinking of going this way anyway. I'm going with the theory of bigger is better in this case and sticking with the blue 202 balancer.

early Holden nut

[warrenm]

The amount of weight difference won't be noticed, if you fitted a 4kg balancer instead of a 1.something balancer, you would notice it. I use an ATI Super Damper on my 202, and it keeps the flywheel bolts tight. 

[claysummers]

Thanks Woz


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[claysummers]

Which pulley to use?
These are both early ones as they match the water pump hub bolt spacing. Top hat one is heavier and slightly smaller diameter, although the v may be slightly narrower thereby compensating. I speculate it is from a HR. The grey one was on the previous motor so no doubt EH.

186 head I sourced failed crack test. Lucky they had a decent one in stock.

early Holden nut

[Dr Terry]

Use the red one.

 

The black (tapered) one is early EH & Holden found that they had overheating issues with those.

 

In late 1964 they changed to the smaller diameter (your red one) which ran the water pump & fan faster.

 

This smaller size remained until the end of VK.

 

Dr Terry

[claysummers]

Thank you good doctor will do


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[claysummers]

Fans? Painted EH, patina HR.

early Holden nut

[Bruiser]

I'd use the back one, it is more shiney and not as pointy.

[claysummers]

You're lazy like me by the sounds

early Holden nut