738 replies to this topic

[Bruiser]

Not at all, it's much harder to get to

[Bruiser]

Heres a harebrained idea - that top fan could possibly be quieter due to the hacked off corner... found some study about helicopter blade tips that suggests this. Too much time on my hands. And just think of the light flywheel type of weight saving benefits, too. Heaps of rat rod appeal, and it's on top of the pile...

[claysummers]

I'm tho king it goes with the smaller pulley. Sped up water pump and reduced fan to suit.

It will get painted Bruce.

early Holden nut

[claysummers]

So looked at the master parts catalogue and same part number for EH - HR for pulley and fan unless power steering fitted.


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[claysummers]

Picked up block and crank. Crank ground 10/10. They mixed up and built me a 202 head but will now use the valves and springs in a 186 one.

Any advice on bearing clearance, plastigauge etc? Machinist also advised to reuse original rod bolts.

early Holden nut

[claysummers]

Plan is to dummy crank without seal to check bearing clearences. Mix and match to optimise if possible, and instal seal. Dummy pistons without rings and optimise big end clearances. Am I being too anal?

early Holden nut

[73SUNBURSTEXYOUWON]

Picked up block and crank. Crank ground 10/10. They mixed up and built me a 202 head but will now use the valves and springs in a 186 one.

Any advice on bearing clearance, plastigauge etc? Machinist also advised to reuse original rod bolts.

early Holden nut

https://www.rocketindustries.com.au/

Although, your engine shop should also be able to advise on bearing clearance specs

[claysummers]

Thanks Jaso, but I’m missing the relevance of the link to rocket industries home page. I’ll be happy if clearances are between 0.002 and 0.003”

Anyway dummied up the crank, then found the shop has sold me an empty sleeve of plastigauge. Crank turns smoothly but sure doesn’t spin free.

So started refurbishing the fuel pump. Probably only needed the valves replaced but bought the kit. Made in Slovenia, $95. No replacement pivot pin or caps, but everything else to do three different types of pump at least. I had to wreck the diaphragm spring in order to remove the diaghpram. There was a fair bit of grey grease in the pump body sump. All the old parts say AC made in England.


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[claysummers]

Rookie error on the plastigauge. Thin isn't it?

early Holden nut

[73SUNBURSTEXYOUWON]

Thanks Jaso, but I’m missing the relevance of the link to rocket industries home page. I’ll be happy if clearances are between 0.002 and 0.003”

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Sorry the link didn't work out as i expected. :(

I searched bearing clearances, as i didnt have any specifics on hand, Rocket Indusries page i read had a page on checking bearing clearance, quoting " a Time Honoured Formula, 0.001 thou bearing clearance, per inch of journal diameter".

Take 2.0 below, if it helps.



https://www.google.c...d=1621564194495

[claysummers]

Thanks that works. I'll have a read.

early Holden nut

[73SUNBURSTEXYOUWON]

Yes i double check the link in preview. LOL

[claysummers]

Tolerances measuring up ok I think. Mains 0.0025, pins 0.001”.

Red motor rod bolt torque is specified at 25ftlb or 34Nm, whereas blue is 48Nm. Are the starfire bolts bigger than the original red ones?


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[yel327]

Yes, definitely bigger bolts. From memory the XT5 rods are same size as a stock 253/308 and SJ SBC. Others will know the exact sizes.

[claysummers]

Thanks Byron.

I snapped one at <48Nm. So pulled one from a 149 in the yard. As the rods have been balanced I am now wondering if there will be a potentially significant weight difference between old and new. I don't have access to a precise scale. The broken one seems to have had a very small amount removed from the end.

early Holden nut

[warrenm]

Holden 6 red motor rod bolts are 5/16" & Starfire/blue/black rod bolts are 11/32". So if you have the smaller bolts, don't use the torque specs for the Starfire/blue/black rod bolts.

[S pack]

Thanks Byron.

I snapped one at <48Nm. So pulled one from a 149 in the yard. As the rods have been balanced I am now wondering if there will be a potentially significant weight difference between old and new. I don't have access to a precise scale. The broken one seems to have had a very small amount removed from the end.

early Holden nut

A 149 rod bolt. Are you sure you have blue 202 rods?

Weigh the broken bolt then weigh your proposed replacement. If required, match the weight of the replacement bolt to the broken bolt.
 

[claysummers]

No Dave, the rods are stock EH to I presume VB. I was looking at the VH torque settings mainly because it’s easier to set Nm on my wrench. Shouldn’t have sheared at that bit of extra torque probably but better then than later. I’ll be painting rocket red by this arvo.


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[claysummers]

.

early Holden nut

[claysummers]

Head going on. Am I correct to use permatex on the bolt threads and don’t retorque?


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[73SUNBURSTEXYOUWON]

Hi Clay, have a read below link.

Posts #15 #22

https://www.google.c...d=1621729425954

Edited by 73SUNBURSTEXYOUWON, 23 May 2021 - 10:31 AM.

[yel327]

I always use new rod bolts, always US made as I don't think there are Aussie ones left anymore, but you have to pre-stretch them and then advisable to get the big end closed and honed afterwards.

[claysummers]

Thanks Jaso, Byron,
I ended up following instructions from permaseal. Just used Permatex gasket goo and nil on the outside four corners, just oil.

I assumed the shop would set me up with new bolts but they were quite happy for me to reuse. When I thought to ask they said don’t bother unless your going to rev it, and would have to machine for larger shanks I understand. ARP are all that you can use now I believe, which is a decent upgrade, oh well. Gee I’m not going to rev it, just use as a coffee table ffs. Now that I have over tensioned some of them I am inclined to tap those out and replace with used ones from the 149, but will it affect the balance. I mean they are identical part. I don’t think this 149 has been overhauled but will check.


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[S pack]

Is it only that one rod bolt that has had some material ground off the tip of the thread? If most bolts have been treated that way it may indicate the engine shop have checked and matched the weight of all rod bolts and nuts to the lightest bolt & nut as part of the engine balance, or that one bolt had a bit of a burr on the tip that simply needed to be removed.

[claysummers]

Got these 12 rubber washers left over from assembly??

early Holden nut