738 replies to this topic

[claysummers]

So it does Jaso. Wire and terminals is all I need. Fortunately brought the workshop manual.
Coil to ignition and ignition to regulator are the main casualties. Possibly also feed to idiot lights and fuel gauge which is off the same post. Anyway I could do the 600km to Bourke on the hot wire. Shorter trips after that. Use of a workshop somewhere between Wilcannia and Moree would be handy.


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[S pack]

So it does Jaso. Wire and terminals is all I need. Fortunately brought the workshop manual.
Coil to ignition and ignition to regulator are the main casualties. Possibly also feed to idiot lights and fuel gauge which is off the same post. Anyway I could do the 600km to Bourke on the hot wire. Shorter trips after that. Use of a workshop somewhere between Wilcannia and Moree would be handy.


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Tip, fix it before you get to Wilcannia.

Edited by S pack, 09 June 2021 - 08:01 AM.

[yel327]

I had a similar burn up of a wire on my Premier yesterday. A random green wire hanging out of the firewall near the coil. When I was moving it smoke started coming from under the bonnet and inside the car. Quickly stopped, opened the bonnet and ripped the 0V terminal off. Green plastic goo everywhere! All good now but I have to get under the dash and see where it goes. I think it may have been added at some stage as the car had a high energy coil on it and an aftermarket dizzy which was changed at the wreckers before I got it.

[claysummers]

What about putting a fuse in the coil feed? Currently none in the FB.

early Holden nut

[Zook]

Got a my 202 head back cleaned and crack tested but rejected due to seats too recessed.

No reason for rejection, just add inserts. Did it have the divider between the adjacent ports removed (I can't remember if it was in or ex) as this was a standard YT mod?

Edited by Zook, 10 June 2021 - 09:05 PM.

[claysummers]

Yeh that’s what I thought. They the head experts, not me. Standard yt set up with posts. But I’m happy to have the adjustable valve train. Sweeter than a rattly hq head. Sold it for what I paid for it. Got plenty of go even with the single strommy and barn yard exhaust. Tall diff and big rubber still breaks traction if pushed. WW Stromberg and cast headers will wake it up.

Travelled 1600km highway, average consumption 11.4 or 24.5 mpg in the old money. Tail wind mind you but motor is still tight and varying my speed a bit . Oil is honey colour and used 0.5L.


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[warrenm]

1600km, that's more than run in.

[claysummers]

Yes she is ticking over pretty nice. 28.7mpg / 9.9 L/100km over 350km wot on the strommie passing doubles. Tappets need a tweak.

early Holden nut

[claysummers]

4000km on the engine now. Apart from bit of tappet noise and blown gearbox the only issue seems to be a fairly profuse oil leak from the sump gasket, under the fuel pump. Could be the pump I suppose.

early Holden nut

[LJ RB30]

Poor crunch box didn't like the new grunty donk 

Whats your next box option ?

Was your fuel pump new?

Did you put sealant on the fuel pump mounting bolts?

Had pumps leak oil out the bolt threads & from worn pivot pins.

Hopefully a simple fix & not requiring pulling the sump! 

[yel327]

GMH were pretty much kidding themselves gearbox wise until HK when they made the M15 all synchro 3spd optional. Except for the HD-HR Powerglide they were all pretty much lunch for anything bigger than a stock 149. I think you just discovered that Clay! What’s the plan going forward for a box? You can’t fit an all synchro in an FB without tunnel mods can you?

[claysummers]

That's right Byron on the tunnel mods. Like many others I discovered that a long time ago. Prolly perservere with the crashie at this stage. There are a few things you can do to beef them up such as welding the syncro rings and doubling bearings.

Trimatic would be the alternative. They prolly more durable than M15. The tri can be shifted off an EK Hydramatic column whereas m15 requires a HK hg column conversion which is available. Easier on the rear end as well.

early Holden nut

[yel327]

Trimatic I agree with, there was a VK EFI one on Gumtree in the last few days for $200 but you’d have to get an old RH shift one for the internal crossover mech. Probably the easiest late model box to use would be from a late WB column shift 6cyl as these are RH shift.
3spd M15 boxes are really strong, don’t suffer like the 4spds. They used to use them in big hp Speedway cars as they were so cheap. You won’t break one in good nick behind a 6cyl especially in a featherweight like an FB ute. I really like the 3spd for a work and tow car as you can live with a highway diff as reverse is so tall (3.74:1).
I saw a cheap diff option for you today too. A 1950’s to 1950’s Chevy banjo. They are so cheap it’s ridiculous, like $50 for a useable diff. Easy cut down but might have to get axle mods unless you want to run 5x4.75 stud pattern.

[claysummers]

Got three trimatic boxes here. Interesting the three speeds are stronger. Borgy diff seems the obvious choice. Got a set of HR commercial drum rear brakes which are wider, and a housing to cut. Will set it up to fit the 8" CSA Magnums I have with 235 60 14" tyres under the FB.

early Holden nut

[yel327]

I thought you might have wanted to keep a banjo style diff. Here is an example. The older Borg Warner diffs like XD-XF had are cheap as chips too though. Centura might even be close width wise.
https://www.gumtree....opytopasteboard

[claysummers]

Centura too rare now as all the rodders used them. 4 pin lsd from Commodore or falcon will do me but it's down the track.

early Holden nut

[yel327]

I bought a 2.92 LSD drum to drum from a final year XF 5spd S ute for $250. I only wanted the drums, and sold the rest off easily. You’d probably find it’d be good too, might allow you to run Ford wheels. If you can run HK-WB stubs, XT Falcon rotors bolt on with HK-HT calipers so then you’d have 5x4.5” pattern all around.

[claysummers]

The HR front provides good steering geometry, scrub radius with wheels I'm using. Heard some negative feedback about the effect if using the later stubs. As I've got one on the ute that's what I'll stick with. Van prolly get rodtech so maybe Ford chev or Commodore pattern on that when I get to it.

early Holden nut

[yel327]

I haven’t fitted my HK Rodtech yet. It has 5x4.75” pattern as it suits the rims I wanted to run. But if I was starting from scratch I’d consider 5x4.5” as the rotors that come with the front end are either XF or AUII and need modifying to be any other pattern.

Are HD/HR a different pin height and angle to HK-WB?

[claysummers]

HR spindle is closer to bottom ball joint. The later assemblies lower the car a bit which some consider a benefit but told it degrades handling. Most alternative hubs push the mount face out significantly, not P76 I’m told.


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[yel327]

I just remembered someone told me they fitted a Hilux diff to an early Holden and it was close to right width a good brakes too with 5x4.5” stud pattern. I think the ratios are too tall for a lot of them though.

[claysummers]

Most diffs that are close are a tad wider so have to run positive offset to get under guards. Includes Volvo Hilux centura. Don't like the look. The Hilux are short ratio I thought, like 4:1.

early Holden nut

[yel327]

I think some Crowns had the same centre as an early Hilux and were 3.45. Maybe the early 80’s Cressida too.

Looks like XP Falcon, R to VE Valiant and Volvo go close. I’d still try and snag a Volvo diff, they are a Dana 30 from memory. Meaning you can buy Trutrac type centre’s for them as they are also used in Jeeps. Whole registered cars are less than $3000 so diffs must be cheap.

[rodomo]

Early locally built Crowns had Holden banjos in a different housing (4 link) and were F@4D pattern

 

If my sad old memory is correct?

[warrenm]

Hilux diff ratios come down around 3.2:1 in the more modern ones.