Project UC
#76
Posted 23 October 2006 - 10:29 PM
Yes, there is a factory fitted thermo in front of the air con condensor, I've added a 12 inch thermo (offset) to the 3 core...I don't think I should have a problem. I had the air con regassed a couple of weeks ago, and with just the clutch fan (no thermo hooked up) she ran warm (within the range.....air con guy measured 93 C with an infra red thermometer) but not too warm to pose a drama, so I'm hoping the extra thermo and a 3 core will keep me out of trouble.
The stereo's pumping hard...it absolutely loves Pink Floyd at full noise....with the windows up, I get some strange looks in traffic!!!!
{i hear the younger generation saying "Pink what???"}
He he he....that's far out, Man.....
#77
Posted 23 October 2006 - 10:53 PM
Argh I sure hope not, one of my favourite bands and it better be the case for all you other young tackers out there or there'll be hell to pay hehe{i hear the younger generation saying "Pink what???"}
Coming along nicely. If you do have to upgrade thermos (although by the sounds of it you probably shouldn't have to which is good), I'll take that 12" off of your hands.
Anyway have you checked all of your wiring connections and fuses etc? Weird that the starter won't crank. Let us know how you go with that little mishap.
And Devils, although I reckon Dick has chosen a pretty nice aftermarket wheel, I sorta agree with you about the factory ones looking the part. SL/R wheels have always appealed to me greatly, I reckon Dick's cruiser could do with a single-spoke wheel matching the rest of the interior colour. Caprice style
#78 _studricho_
Posted 23 October 2006 - 10:54 PM
The plug is located at the top of the tunnel to the left of the steeroing columm. It's a two plug connecter. Connect a wire between this and it should kick over, you can also use this circuit for a kill switch.
#79 _devilsadvocate_
Posted 23 October 2006 - 10:56 PM
Edited by devilsadvocate, 23 October 2006 - 10:59 PM.
#80
Posted 24 October 2006 - 12:20 PM
#81 _studricho_
Posted 24 October 2006 - 08:37 PM
#82
Posted 24 October 2006 - 11:40 PM
No probs with the help mate, it's better to pass on experiences, can save heaps of time.A big G'day to LX2DR who came over about an hour too late, missed out on the use of the engine crane to put the original motor on a trailer.
Helped out heaps with bits and pieces too. Thanks Paul!! Much appreciated!
Love those vice grip thingamiebobs!!!
Howd you go with the inspection cover?
Those vice grip thingys Plier wrench
Like i said, bloody expensive but work a treat on those old brake & fuel line nuts that dont want to part company.
#83
Posted 25 October 2006 - 07:20 AM
Looks like the sway bar's coming off.
BUGGER!!!!!!!!
Car's at auto elec, spent ALL day at the exhuast joint!!!!!!!
AAAAAAAGGGGHHHH!!!!!!!!!
#84
Posted 25 October 2006 - 09:33 AM
Its a pity i wasnt their for the crane, but would have been better value to be their for that inspection cover before the engine went inYeah, that bloody inspection cover, the exhuast guys had a go and it's in, but not fitted....put it in the too hard basket and hand balled it on to me, now I've got an inspection cover hanging around!!!
Looks like the sway bar's coming off.
BUGGER!!!!!!!!
Car's at auto elec, spent ALL day at the exhuast joint!!!!!!!
AAAAAAAGGGGHHHH!!!!!!!!!
You only need to drop it at the back, at the U bolts, dont take it right off!
#85 _Keithy's_UC_
Posted 25 October 2006 - 05:16 PM
Good luck with the inspection cover - i didnt have to remove my stabilizer bar to get mine on or off, mmm interesting...
Oh well, best of luck mate!
Keith
#86
Posted 25 October 2006 - 05:53 PM
Hi Keithy, are you running a trimatic?Hey dick! Sounds like it's all taking shape now! I'm back in QLD now, so no more visits from me this year!
Good luck with the inspection cover - i didnt have to remove my stabilizer bar to get mine on or off, mmm interesting...
Oh well, best of luck mate!
Keith
I noticed on Dicks original UC trans it has just a flat plate on the front face of the bell housing, no issues with sway bar.
Older trimatics and all manuals have a bucket and the sway bar is right underneath it.
Edited by LX2DR, 25 October 2006 - 05:53 PM.
#87 _Keithy's_UC_
Posted 25 October 2006 - 06:40 PM
Cheerio
Keithy
#88
Posted 25 October 2006 - 09:00 PM
Are you home yet, or just back in QLD?
Hope you had a good run.
Quick update.
Got the car to the auto elec's yesterday arvo (late), so they started on it today, and took all day to wire up the air con thermo (original) and the 12 in thermo I installed on the 3 core radiator, off the orig switch. This auto elec has people come in off the street all the time, as he has an excellent reputation, and can't say no to anyone!!!
Now, if the air con's on, both thermo's will activate, if air con's off, just the 12 in will come on.
Also closed the circuit of the inhibiter switch wiring. (so the car will start)
Once that was done (4:00pm) I rolled the car down a couple of doors to a mechanic (who services the VT wagon, missus' car) and after a little wait, got the UC up on the hoist.
I installed the new shortened tailshaft while mech looked at inspection cover. He decided to drop the sway bar and do it right.
Found two allen head bolts of the right thread in my bucket of bolts that came with the engine. Two missing! Bugger!
Dropped the gearbox oil and refilled the box with 2.5lts of new oil.
Put the car back up in the air, attempted to start for the first time since dropping in.....tap, tap, tap.
Flywheel hitting inspection cover as exhaust blokes had dented it trying to get it in!!!!!
OK, ran out of time....Mech said leave it here, I'll pull the Inspection cover off and bang it out, put it back in and see how we go.
Bugger!!! She was so close to kicking over too!!!! Dying to hear her with the new 2 1/4 free flow exhaust!!!
Oh well....waited since Saturday, I can wait another day!
All for now.
Cheers
#89 _NVMYLH_
Posted 26 October 2006 - 12:00 PM
#90
Posted 26 October 2006 - 01:46 PM
Mech said he couldn't start it, but he didn't have time to persist....they're flat out.
I don't reckon there's any fuel up to the carb yet.
Fingers crossed for later, wish me luck!!!
#91
Posted 26 October 2006 - 02:54 PM
#92
Posted 26 October 2006 - 07:22 PM
Mate you will need a tank just to prime that thing .Job's done, going to pick her up after work.
Mech said he couldn't start it, but he didn't have time to persist....they're flat out.
I don't reckon there's any fuel up to the carb yet.
Fingers crossed for later, wish me luck!!!
And remember what i said, you are no longer allowed to use those 2 words in the same sentance when discussing the UC anymore.
FUEL & ECONOMY, its not gonna happen!
Paul
#93 _Keithy's_UC_
Posted 26 October 2006 - 07:43 PM
Hope it goes good for ya! Sounds like it's all happening in melbourne! You must be paying a few blokes' wages now eh!
Keith
#94
Posted 26 October 2006 - 08:56 PM
Or a hoist!
But she's in the driveway at HOME! I think a new clutch and thrust bearing is needed, a little noisy!
Auto elec was money well spent.... I got no idea when it comes to that, no matter how much I try to learn, I just can't seem to grasp it.
She fires up first go, no pumping the go juice up at all!
I've adjusted the clutch the best I can, and she goes into gear quite well. I'm going to my Bro in law's tomorrow so we can play with the timing to stop the pinging.
I'm just so rapt to have a manual again!
Thanks to all who've given advice and also called around to offer their time to help a novice out!!!
Very much appreciated, I can tell you.
#95
Posted 19 January 2007 - 07:57 PM
After searching e-bay for months, these little beauties came up.
Neales Wheels, 15x7 all round, rears were fitted with 225/50/15 Kelly Chargers (95% tread). Put some 205/55/15 BF Goodrich on the front today, gave her a wheel alignment and took some pics.
Note the missing body moulds.... was thinking of removing completely.....
Driver's side with moulds still in place... I think I prefer the moulds actually!...
Next will be resetting the springs to lower her, well the front (mainly) and I may need to lip the guards...time will tell.
Cheers.
#96 _devilsadvocate_
Posted 19 January 2007 - 08:13 PM
Ive had mine resprayed, unless the mouldings were dead straight and brand new i wouldnt put them back on and whatever they use to glue them on with falls off again in time. But agree its a better look with the mouldings on....but then again its cleaner with them off......its a matter of taste. With them off, the panels need to be perfect as any imperfections seem to come at you all at once when you look down the side of the car. They really arent that functional in terms of protection for the supermarket etc.
#97
Posted 19 January 2007 - 08:19 PM
I've got all the mouldings...
The panels (and paint for that matter) look great under the moulds, it's just a matter of whether I can find the best materials to use to get the residue off.
#98
Posted 19 January 2007 - 08:24 PM
Seriously, a bit of petrol might work? Maybe...
RIM
#99
Posted 19 January 2007 - 08:27 PM
#100
Posted 19 January 2007 - 08:28 PM
Thanks (I think?) RIM
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