10 replies to this topic

[Beddy]

All, I'm sure this will be on here somewhere, but what rims have others used when using Stubtech spindles, HQ rotors and calipers on an LJ?

 

I've been trying various 6" Sampson's, as I am going for a modern traditional look, and having some trouble finding some that don't need the lip rolled. 

 

I am working on a set of hotwires for a change in look with the opposite problem as the rear is setup for 10" Sampson's with standard rear rail, lip removed inner and outer. Diff 8"narrower than stock.

[Heath]

Roll the lip to begin with, so that you have some chance of getting decent looking fitment on the front.

 

If you're needing drastically different wheel specs front and rear, and you want period cast single piece wheels, it makes the process pretty tricky. Lots of asking and hunting around in people's collections to find shit with the right specs. But hey, building cars is hard. And wheels maketh the car. You can sometimes do a bit of machining to the hub face or make a small spacer but this will only get you minor adjustments.  

 

I don't know what "modern traditional" means, perhaps you could elaborate?

[Beddy]

I think that I will have to roll the lip to achieve the look I'm after.

For those of us who were around at the time to remember vans with flares and bubble windows or cars with air shocks pumped up to the moon. I am going for a period wheel tyre combo with modern low stance.

Some if us will remember fondly getting pulled over ever week for the rear tyres sticking out from under the guards with a massive 235 Bridgestone steel belted 60.

[rodomo]

Chromies and Uniroyal Wild Cats 

[claysummers]

Finding old Sampson’s in 4.75” PCD is obviously going to be harder than 4.25”. They were made for the Aussie market which means HQZ, whereas the early patterns were made for at least three different offsets. Machining the mounting faces can usually gain a maximum of 6mm per side, and then the nut shanks need to be shortened.


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[warrenm]

Chromies and Uniroyal Wild Cats 

Now your showing your age.

[Heath]

Oh okay, I didn't know that the modern era had the monopoly on cars being low.

 

Anyway, what is it that you're after? How can we help?

 

You've got some wheels to try so that you can measure up to find what the perfect wheeld would be, yes?

The HQ (4.75") pattern is all round I suppose?

There's a decent Facebook group called 'Classic Australian Mag Wheels' that is not a bad place to ask for wheels once you know what you want.

[claysummers]

Oh okay, I didn't know that the modern era had the monopoly on cars being low.

More so on the rear. Traditional stance was bum up.

Chromies are like gold now.


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[Beddy]

Even then in the 70's and 80's we never went more than 1" lower, 2" was pretty rare. Now we all want to tuck the rim. Some of the stuff I build is only the minimum 100mm ground clearance required by TSA.

Im interested if anyone has used stubtech spindles with hq brakes on anlj and what rims they fitted.

For myself I think I will roll the lip and machine what I can from the mounting surface and see how it looks. I might so go with a lower profile 175 tyre. At the moment the guard lip sits on the tyre without the drive train installed so I know that I will have to raise the front a little.

[Heath]

lol, the modern era does not quite have the monopoly on low ride heights. The moment early Pro Street came to Australia...

 

But sure, before that, it was less typical.
And there are still shitloads of Toranas now that sit like 4WD's, so I wouldn't go as far as to say that the trend is all towards low, unfortunately.

If the guard lip sits on the tyre, then you're still mega high so you'll need to go lower than that! The top of the tyre should be concealed behind the guard lip on a modified car of course.

 

Before you write anything off, make sure it has some negative camber at ride height... you can also put hubs on it that pull the mating face of the front wheels in (P76 rotors for example, although they are 4.5" P.C.D. not HQ pattern) and re-work your brake caliper mounts. Smaller tyre will of course help but if you already have a 175 I doubt you want to go any narrower (unless you want front runners). I suspect you might be better to find a set of wheels with a less aggressive offset unless you want to add pumped guards (which I'm also all for).

[claysummers]

Even then in the 70's and 80's we never went more than 1" lower, 2" was pretty rare. Now we all want to tuck the rim. Some of the stuff I build is only the minimum 100mm ground clearance required by TSA.

Im interested if anyone has used stubtech spindles with hq brakes on anlj and what rims they fitted.

For myself I think I will roll the lip and machine what I can from the mounting surface and see how it looks. I might so go with a lower profile 175 tyre. At the moment the guard lip sits on the tyre without the drive train installed so I know that I will have to raise the front a little.

Nah! Mate had four inch wooden lowering blocks on back his FB in 1972. The tail shaft was rubbing on top of the tunnel. Rims were cut and shut wideys no longer legal. Heat up the front springs and drop 3 inches, leaving frOck all travel.


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