12 replies to this topic

[MFM]

Chasing some advice on the what is the best automotive acrylic Lacquer these days. In the early days Dulon was considered the best product. I've decided not to fully restore my car which was painted from its original colour of Chateau Mauve to Tangerine in the late 70's. The paint on the bonnet is crazed and the rear spoiler has cracks in the paint which I'm not quite sure how to repair (advice would be appreciated). The rest of the body/paint is pretty good. Spent $500 last week and got one of those paint-less dent removers around home to tidy up a few shopping type dents around the body, so figured I'd only paint those area's that need it and leave the car alone as they seem to be more desirable in that state.

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[Rockoz]

Any cracks or crazing needs to be taken back to the parent material. Steel/plastic/fibreglass.

Is the spoiler glass or plastic?

If it is glass, then you will need to gouge back down to a crack free area, then repair.

These days PPG seem to have a good name for paint.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[MFM]

The rear spoiler on the XU1's is fibreglass I believe, so I assume I sand back to the parent material, but then I assume its the standard steps of undercoat/spray putty then top coat? So PPG is considered a quality product. I was warned that there is some inferior Acrylic Lacquer on the market these days as its not popular anymore.

[claysummers]

PPG have the Dulon brand now. I used it on my FB ute. No complaints, but then I’m a novice. When we painted my son’s Impreza in metallic they gave us valspar.


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[308 Sunbird]

Just painted my Kingy wagon in the backyard a few months ago with Concept paints acrylic.

Thought it was great to use and has come up a treat. They are Sydney based manufacturer.

[Indy Orange]

Had mine painted in the PPG acrylic ,no problems.

[S pack]

The rear spoiler on the XU1's is fibreglass I believe, so I assume I sand back to the parent material, but then I assume its the standard steps of undercoat/spray putty then top coat? So PPG is considered a quality product. I was warned that there is some inferior Acrylic Lacquer on the market these days as its not popular anymore.

Mark, the cracking on the spoiler is in the white gel coat. It is a bigger job to repair then just repainting.

[grumpy xu1]

You can buy repair products bog ect, specifically for fibreglass ect, however to buy these different products all might work out to be dearer than getting a panel shop to colour match it as good as possible & re paint the spoiler for you. We don't say spray putty any more, due to the world of problems associated with this shit product. It's going to be like an epoxy & then a high build primer and then your top coat. If it's really just the spoiler you could get away with doing & the rest of the car you could live with, then it's most probably worth the money just to pay someone to paint the whole thing. I'm not an acrylic man, but a ppg protec ect, should be fine for this. Price all the products you will need, before making your decision.

[MFM]

Thanks for the advice. I've personally re-painted about 10 cars in Acrylic Lacquer (and 2 fibreglass boats in Epiglass 2 pac) in my life, so have some idea but have no idea with current products. I suspected the rear spoiler would pose an issue. I have a mate who works at Riviera Marine here on the Gold Coast, so might hit him up to do the spoiler as want to do it right.

[claysummers]

The spoiler will most be likely be made using polyester resin laminated glass fibre. It isn’t cheap, but cheaper than epoxy and not hard to use. You could get 500mm from your mate for under $30. Use MEKP hardener at 1%. Also need to add either 1% wax in styrene solution, or a teaspoon of q-cell powder to make it sand-able. Your mate may have this ready mixed (not the hardener obviously). In the surfboard industry it is called filler.

Sand out the surface cracks, brush on filler and sand to 400 finish. Acrylic sticks well to polyester so you don’t need an adhesion promoter, but etch prime to be sure to be sure.


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[S pack]

The spoiler will most be likely be made using polyester resin laminated glass fibre. It isn’t cheap, but cheaper than epoxy and not hard to use. You could get 500mm from your mate for under $30. Use MEKP hardener at 1%. Also need to add either 1% wax in styrene solution, or a teaspoon of q-cell powder to make it sand-able. Your mate may have this ready mixed (not the hardener obviously). In the surfboard industry it is called filler.

Sand out the surface cracks, brush on filler and sand to 400 finish. Acrylic sticks well to polyester so you don’t need an adhesion promoter, but etch prime to be sure to be sure.


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The white gelcoat on the OEM XU1 rear spoilers seems to be a mixed bag. It is thin in some places and quite thick in others hence the cracking occurs where the gelcoat is thicker.

Back in 1996 I used a dremel and a small engraving tip to vee out each crack. A long, slow and messy job when there are heaps of cracks.

Then I mixed up a batch of fibreglass and added talcum powder to make a toothpaste consistency putty to fill the cracks, sand smooth, then used a skim of bog to pick up any low spots.

Suffice to say I noticed within a few years some light cracking in the new paint has reappeared but isn't too noticeable.
 

[MFM]

Dave that white gel coat you have referred to shows in one of my photos. I wondered what that white was doing there. Sounds like an arduous task fixing the cracks permanently. 

[grumpy xu1]

I'd fix your original & stay clear of the re production 1's !