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LH Gpak Build


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#26 hawk

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Posted 28 November 2022 - 02:56 PM

Well the parcel shelf is in. Still a few welds to grind down but pretty happy with the result overall.

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#27 LXCHEV

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Posted 28 November 2022 - 04:06 PM

Excellent!



#28 claysummers

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Posted 28 November 2022 - 06:20 PM

Well done hawk. You are in deep there mate.


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#29 RIM-010

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Posted 30 November 2022 - 09:05 AM

Nice work mate, you're cruising through it

#30 hawk

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Posted 09 December 2022 - 09:15 PM

Thanks guys.

Dad was sick of working in the back of the car and decided to have a look at the front guards.

Passengers guard had some bogged up rust.

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Cut out and patch welded in
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Bare metal front and rear
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Primed and ready for filler work
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driver guard didn't have rust holes but did have a pretty nasty dent that was bogged up
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Rather than bog it all the decision was made to patch it.

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Finished patch
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Next thing to tackle will probably be the drivers side rear 1/4 replacement. The plan is to replace the quarters then fit the rear window Channel and lastly refit the upper panel shelf panel. We figured this was the best way to assemble it with KBS rust proof paint on as much as possible.

#31 Heath

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Posted 21 December 2022 - 01:44 PM

Nice repairs mate!



#32 hawk

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Posted 05 January 2023 - 07:44 PM

Still progressing well. Dad wanted a break from metalwork so decided to get the hang ons done where possible.

A couple of coats of colour on everything top and bottom. The last coat will be done with everything bolted to the car to get the colour as even as possible.

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#33 claysummers

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Posted 05 January 2023 - 08:45 PM

Colour looks sweet hawk.


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#34 kudu

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Posted 09 January 2023 - 07:34 PM

Nice looking colour!



#35 Heath

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Posted 10 January 2023 - 09:43 AM

I love that colour, too.

 

What colour will the G-Pak stripes be over that?  :spoton:



#36 hawk

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Posted 08 February 2023 - 07:55 PM

This is still coming along well, a lot of sanding and prep work is being done on the hang on panels.

Dads been having trouble getting the colour spraying good. Picked up a devilbiss gun today and it was spraying a lot better.

He has made a start on the passengers side front door. All rust repairs are done on it.

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#37 Bruiser

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Posted 08 February 2023 - 08:21 PM

Nice job fellas

#38 meanmachine72

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Posted 08 February 2023 - 08:23 PM

Good work, another on the way back

#39 RIM-010

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Posted 11 February 2023 - 03:03 PM

Nice work mate, keep the pace up!

#40 hawk

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Posted 07 March 2023 - 06:53 PM

Finished off the door from above.

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Started the patches on the drivers side floor under where the rear seat sits.

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Dads been on the lookout for replacement drivers side doors and has found a couple. should be getting them Friday. The drivers door was the worst on the car by far with the inner structure having what we determined terminal cancer.

Currently on the lookout for a half decent 308 and 4 speed combo or 350 chev combo for the car.
We just missed out on a 350 with Muncie combo on the weekend.

#41 yel327

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Posted 07 March 2023 - 07:16 PM

Do you want a running engine or a rebuilder. I’ll keep an eye out for you. What budget?

#42 hawk

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Posted 07 March 2023 - 07:33 PM

Appreciate Yel.

After a complete runner if possible. The one Dad was looking at was 7.5k For motor and box for a rough idea of budget.

#43 yel327

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Posted 07 March 2023 - 07:55 PM

There is a rebuilt 327 in Brisbane a the moment with a Saginaw but needs more $ spent to fit a U car. Would be a good one as it is from an Aussie assembled Pontiac or Chevrolet but probably not exactly what you need.
My suggestion is grab a 283, they are cheap as chips and go like stink without spending a fortune on performance bits. Will be hard to find one with a Muncie or T10 though.

#44 Cook

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Posted 08 March 2023 - 08:52 AM

Hi Steve.  What's the economics of picking up a cheap 253 and getting that stroked and rebuild. Might also be a bit easier to find. Cheers Ron



#45 Shiney005

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Posted 08 March 2023 - 09:01 AM

Chev Chev Saginaww blah blah blah.  :)   Keep it Holden and build a nice 308.  Great starting point right here. https://www.gumtree....bore/1306438929



#46 yel327

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Posted 08 March 2023 - 09:12 AM

Go SBC!

#47 LXCHEV

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Posted 08 March 2023 - 10:40 AM

I'm a fan of the SBC obviously too (and has to be old school) - but this instantly means engineers report (VASS) regardless of size. So it's opening up another huge can of worms in itself - and more cost.

 

I do like the idea of a nice stout 308.

 

I also like the idea of building a hottie 253 - stroker even better.... for something a little different.

 

If budget is tight - I'd keep looking until you find a good runner. Something that's not flogged out that you can just drop straight in and enjoy. Then longer term, go to town on it. There should be heaps of good 2-flufflies around.... you'll pay more for a good 308 of course.

 

Have a good think about the long term vision though - you don't want to do things twice.

 

Maybe the SBC conversion isn't entirely stupid - you could buy a brand spanking new crate motor from Eagle Auto Parts - so at least the engine is done, everything brand new. Then just worry about engineering it. Any 253 or 308 is old, so will carry a lot more risk with respect to wear and tear and rebuild costs.


Edited by LXCHEV, 08 March 2023 - 10:41 AM.


#48 yel327

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Posted 08 March 2023 - 11:34 AM

You don’t necessarily need Engineering in an LH. Just use a 283 or 307 and should be fine. It is a 9” or stuff like that which will trigger the Engineering requirement. Even Engineering a 307 or 327 in an LX isn’t that hard, just need a Quadrajet off a HX-WB and hook the canister up plus the spark timing stuff. No need for EGR with a manual. A 350 fits within the NCOP guidelines too. But a 283, 302, 305 or 307 should be do-able in an LH with no Engineering, and if it needs any it’s not much and can be done along with a 9”.
A 283 in an LH will go as hard as most 308 for far less $. They can easily be bored 60 (which most need anyway) and become 292ci. 4” bore will give you 302ci. Or just put in a 327SJ crank in a post 1963 block and you have 307ci, 317ci or 327ci. Once you take a 283 to 60 over you can fit 1.94” intake valves so any old stock fuelies with 64cc chambers will give you about 9.5:1 with flat tops. Mild hydraulic cam or retrofit roller cam, any old Performer intake and a Quadrajet with HEI. None of that is dear, SBC stuff is cheap when you aren’t building a big cube stroker like 377 upwards. Even a pair of TrickFlow alloy replica fuelies are less than $3000 ready to go (need 4” bore for these though as they have 2.02” intakes).

#49 yel327

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Posted 08 March 2023 - 06:57 PM

Mate showed me a brand new Muncie with SBC hydraulic bellhousing and Hurst shifter on Facebook for $3000 on the weekend. It was in Baccus March I think. I won't use Facebook so can't get you a link. I think the ad heading just said Muncie 4spd or 4speed or something like that.



#50 yel327

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Posted 08 March 2023 - 07:26 PM

Also just saw this in Victoria. Maybe see if you negotiate a deal on it. Rebuilt 308, Muncie etc. Maybe some nice wheels too. Wreck the rest out for parts, or spend a little time on it cleaning it up to make it prettier and sell as a project without motor and box.

http://www.gumtree.c...&utm_source=sms




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