119 replies to this topic

[hawk]

Thanks Yel, I saw the muncie for 3k. I think Dad is keenest on a chev because he had an Slr with the 350 back in NZ when he was younger.

I'd say that the Hq above is more than he'd be willing to spend at the moment. Best off waiting a few more months as prices are still dropping and there's some good stuff popping up.

Dad finished off the floor repair and laid down some KBS rust proof paint.

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The wiring in this car is totally butchered. when the thermo fans come on the engine virtually dies because of the current draw. So naturally, I ripped it all out.
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along with the thermo fan wiring, there was an aftermarket alarm system fitted which I don't think had been operational for years.

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[yel327]

This isn’t badly priced, I think it’s a GenII Vortec so technically not a Chevy engine but at least looks like one. Rebuilt and balanced with a flywheel too. Just needs that Muncie on Foolbook and a clutch. Should cool fine with a HJ-HZ 3 row radiator. I think you would just use an LH-LX V8 throttle pedal and cable.

http://www.gumtree.c...&utm_source=sms

[Cook]

What sort of emissions gear would you have to run with that.  Only reason I raise it is that I think this is being looked at a bit closer in Vic. at present. I went to discuss my set-up with an engineer recently and he suggested I might need cats with a QT prefix engine. Naturally I'm not talking to him any further. Cheers Ron

[yel327]

It depends on the engine and the car in NSW and I doubt VIC would be any different if they are using the NCOP. On an LH you don't need anything to run a 6/76 and earlier 308 block other than a sealed fuel tank, canister and the correct carby for the transmission. If the LH is pre 1/75 all you need is the ADR26 stuff, not even a canister. As far as SBC or GENII engines, if the block is pre 1972 same as a above, assuming engine size constraints are OK. If it is after that then best bet is a crate engine block, although some Engineers will say if it is quacks and looks like a SBC block (2 piece rear main etc) then it is OK, just like they say QT or 11QT prefix is fine (we all know a lot of these are ADR27A). I've been told for my 427 in my GTS327, if it looks like a BBC then it'll be fine, so I can use a 1972-1980 block if I need to, but now have a 1970 block for it.

[yel327]

Hawk, this might work in the LH with a 308 or 253.

Would need a modified UC clutch pedal.

http://www.gumtree.c...&utm_source=sms

[hawk]

Thanks Yel, I sent it through to dad. I might even try and grab it for my car. Seems pretty cheap really.

I think Dad mainly wants to focus on finishing the body work before anything else. He is currently working on the rear floorpans at the moment.

[hawk]

Missed out on the box, he already sold it.

[yel327]

Damn, have to be fast! Here is another I saw at the same time. Bit dearer but comes with more. Has a HX Holden style clutch mech on it. I always wondered if this would fit a Torana and work with an LH-LX V8 clutch pedal and cable. It comes with pedals so you could work out the ratios off the HX clutch pedal.

http://www.gumtree.c...&utm_source=sms

Edited by yel327, 12 March 2023 - 07:30 AM.

[hawk]

Well dad started on his replacement drivers side door. Rust free frame although had a few rust holes along where the rubber bump strip sat. Anyway, he tried to replace the strip against my advice and the skin is now warped to buggery. He has set it aside for now until he works out what to do with it.

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In the mean time he has started work on the parcel shelf top section that was in 3 pieces.

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All tied in together for the most part


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And test fitment

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[Uncle Chop Chop]

Nothing like a air of vice grips and a 12" shifter, is there? As long as it doesn't move whist you're welding, that's the only important thing.

[claysummers]

Tricky job on the door. You’ve got to turn up the heat so you get even penetration. Stops it from pulling in at the weld. Very slowly and evenly. Control the heat. Knowing the theory is only the first step. If you can get a strip of copper earth strap like they use in substations up hard behind it it will draw the heat and also prevent blow through.


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[yel327]

Shame you aren’t in WA Hawk. This guy has radiator, extractors and exhaust suit SBC into LX. Almost free.

http://www.gumtree.c...&utm_source=sms

[hawk]

Geez that stuff is cheap.

Have sourced a couple more bits for this car and my car recently. Dad ended buying another drivers door that is a lot better.

Got the parcel shelf top section in KBS paint and finished off for now. It will be fitted last. The curve is a little off on the passengers side but should be easy enough to adjust.



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The passengers rear floor has got a couple of patches with a couple more needed.

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[Heath]

Keep at it. Getting some good results here mate.

[hawk]

Just a quick photo dump of some recent progress.

rear floor pan repairs completed, rust converted and painted in KBS.



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[hawk]

Drivers side floor pan needed a couple of patches.



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Passengers front floor is the worst by far and is all coming out.

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[Heath]

You're putting a reproduction floor section in on that side, I imagine?
 
The repairs are looking good.
 

Tricky job on the door. You’ve got to turn up the heat so you get even penetration. Stops it from pulling in at the weld. Very slowly and evenly. Control the heat. Knowing the theory is only the first step. If you can get a strip of copper earth strap like they use in substations up hard behind it it will draw the heat and also prevent blow through.

That isn't the advice I would give, lol.

[claysummers]

Well don’t keep us in suspense Heath….


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[Heath]

Sorry, I probably sounded a bit rude there. Maybe we need some more information, are you suggesting doing the same job as above, but just with the amps turned up and a strip of copper behind it? Is that really going to make it work any better? Is there a particular sequence of welding and/or cooling it along the way? (I must admit I'm not even quite sure how you clamp the copper in place well)

 

I would just avoid MIG welding a strip down the middle of a door skin in the first place.

 

But I guess if I had to do this repair, I'd remove the skin, weld the section in with a TIG so I could actually planish the weld and panel beat the repair generally to get it into shape, and then re-fit the skin. 

It's an awful repair, though. Fortunately they do make replacement skins although they aren't super cheap.

[claysummers]

I use various methods to hold copper and alloy heat sinks behind the weld, including tek screws through the panel, propping from behind, masking tape, and just holding with one hand and mig with other. It enables me to turn the heat up and get good penetration on pitted panels. I need to get oxy I know but haven't got around to it yet. As for TIG I'm completely ignorant in that respect.

Agree that I would likely get a full skin replacement if possible. I haven't had much luck doing large panels like that. Did have some success with lower rear quarter replacement. You can get in behind with dollys and planish with the doors though. The panel van quarter panels require some serious contortion, and that is on a rotisserie.


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[Uncle Chop Chop]

Virtually every time I saw somebody use a slab of copper as a heatsink, it was held in place by hand. Mind you, the times it was used was always on a small section. Nothing like the full length of a door skin.

[yel327]

You should never hold any metal by hand when welding. Great way to give yourself an electric shock. Nowadays about 20-25% of reported electric shocks are by those welding or plasma cutting and they are always caused by the welder (you) becoming part of the welding circuit. If you are going to hold anything being welded wear dry welding gloves and use a DC welding machine, but preferably don’t touch anything attached to the welding circuit.

[claysummers]

Good advice Byron. I did feel a tingle once. It also gets too hot to hold quite rapidly. When I mini-tubbed my van I used a length of the substation earth grid type copper strap, tek screwed underneath along the weld gap from above. Worked well to hold the filler strip flush and minimise linshing required inside the tub, as well as eliminate blow through.


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[Uncle Chop Chop]

Just to clarify, a bare hand wasn't used. It was more that the block was held by a tool with an insulated grip, which was in turn placed against the metal work by hand. As opposed to being clamped etc. to the metalwork.

[Heath]

If you TIG weld regularly, you'll definitely find a way to electrocute yourself lol. It has never been a problem, but it has been difficult to avoid, haha.