119 replies to this topic

[yel327]

If you TIG weld regularly, you'll definitely find a way to electrocute yourself lol. It has never been a problem, but it has been difficult to avoid, haha.

 

If you manage to electrocute yourself once Heath, you'll be on here as a ghost! Electrocution is death by electric shock.

 

Electric shocks from arc welding have been the most common and hence most serious form of electric shock for a while now. Test and Tag, battery tools, widespread use of RCD's etc. have lowered the instances of electric shock in those areas that has left arc welding with its head sticking up. The trade with the least amount of electric shocks today is normally electricians as they are regulated heavily now with regards to working on energised equipment and are trained in Test Before you Touch and proper test methods.

 

You heart doesn't know what the source of the current is, just has to be the right amount of mA (yes milliamps) and your heart will go into defibrillation which will kill you as sure as a heart attack unless you get assistance in the form of CPR and a Defib within a few minutes. Yes, DC power sources are better and less likely to kill you than AC but only if they are ripple free (low ripple) - many DC power sources are as dangerous as AC as they have an AC component in the form of ripple from the rectification process. Many arc welding power sources today have VRD's and trigger switches to protect the welder (you) from dangerous voltages, hint - throw away AC welding power sources without a VRD.

 

I'd suggest to you (and anyone else) that getting an electric shock from an arc welder is akin to Russian Roulette with a 6 shooter. I'm not joking in that regard whatsoever, and I'n not preaching - just trying to open your eyes to the danger. In fact, getting an electric shock from an unsafe welding environment is more dangerous than sticking a metal paperclip into the active pin of a GPO - almost always the GPO will have a safety net in the form of an RCCB or RCBO which will remove the power as soon as the earth fault (you) exceeds 30mA which is enough to feel but not enough in that timeframe before tripping to cause defibrillation in most people. Touching the welding circuit there is no control over the current that your body sees other than the circuit resistance which includes your body.

[Statler]

If you manage to electrocute yourself once Heath, you'll be on here as a ghost! Electrocution is death by electric shock.

 

Electric shocks from arc welding have been the most common and hence most serious form of electric shock for a while now. Test and Tag, battery tools, widespread use of RCD's etc. have lowered the instances of electric shock in those areas that has left arc welding with its head sticking up. The trade with the least amount of electric shocks today is normally electricians as they are regulated heavily now with regards to working on energised equipment and are trained in Test Before you Touch and proper test methods.

 

You heart doesn't know what the source of the current is, just has to be the right amount of mA (yes milliamps) and your heart will go into defibrillation which will kill you as sure as a heart attack unless you get assistance in the form of CPR and a Defib within a few minutes. Yes, DC power sources are better and less likely to kill you than AC but only if they are ripple free (low ripple) - many DC power sources are as dangerous as AC as they have an AC component in the form of ripple from the rectification process. Many arc welding power sources today have VRD's and trigger switches to protect the welder (you) from dangerous voltages, hint - throw away AC welding power sources without a VRD.

 

I'd suggest to you (and anyone else) that getting an electric shock from an arc welder is akin to Russian Roulette with a 6 shooter. I'm not joking in that regard whatsoever, and I'n not preaching - just trying to open your eyes to the danger. In fact, getting an electric shock from an unsafe welding environment is more dangerous than sticking a metal paperclip into the active pin of a GPO - almost always the GPO will have a safety net in the form of an RCCB or RCBO which will remove the power as soon as the earth fault (you) exceeds 30mA which is enough to feel but not enough in that timeframe before tripping to cause defibrillation in most people. Touching the welding circuit there is no control over the current that your body sees other than the circuit resistance which includes your body.

Have you T.I.G'd? 

[yel327]

Yes once, but never since. My Caddy has Tig attachments and it uses reverse polarity from memory for Tig. Still uses dangerous voltages though, from memory even more so for welding alloy as often AC voltage are used. If I remember right Tig like Mig uses a trigger so is far less dangerous than a straight stick arc welder.

[hawk]

Dad ended up buying another door. The one above will either get a re-skin or become a donor for another one we have.

Anyway, the floorpan is now welded in. Opted for the overlap where the tunnel is and the top.

A little more welding required under the car to finish off.

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[yel327]

Nice work. You are going to have to set Easter Sunday as the birthday for this car, it certainly is a back from the dead story. I cut up three HK-HG Monaros better than your LH rust-wise as they were too rusty to fix.

[hawk]

Thanks Yel, that's the idea. It's a massive undertaking. Dad has decided to leave the rear quarters and back panel until last. we bought a pretty badly damaged rear cut that has a good beaver on it.

Anyway, floor pans are now rust free and all in KBS paint for the most part.

Made a start on the lower drivers side B-pillar. luckily one was supplied with the car for cuts.


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Motor and box are set to come out pretty soon too. that way we xan clean up the rest of the floor pan repairs from underneath and start the bonnet hinge sections.

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Motor has a pretty well worked Yella terra head on it. Plan is to throw my 350 holley and manifold on it along with my exhaust and extractors when I drop the 8 in my car.

In other news we may be picking up an LX on Sunday. it will just go in the back of the shed for now as the next project. It's quite similar to this car condition wise from the photos I've seen so far.

[hawk]

I'll just leave these here



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[yel327]

What is it? LX SL?

[hawk]

Yeah I believe so. 202 column shift auto. Runs and drives, only just.

So far it's not looking too bad. Doors are buggered, bonnet and boot are buggered but it came with good spares. Nosecone and guards are repairable.

Plenum is pretty bad on both sides. Needs both front floors and one of the rears needs repairs. Parcel shelf isn't too bad but is cut for speakers.

Boot floor is pretty good considering. both quarters are dinged and need some rust repairs.

Divers side sill is dented to buggery and needs replacing.

[308 Sunbird]

Nothing you can't handle Steve.

[Shiney005]

Is this one yours or another for the old man?

[hawk]

This one is his too. Never know, once mine is finished I might buy it off him.

[Uncle Chop Chop]

I hate to ask, but what did it cost to buy?

[hawk]

Picked it up for $6700 and paid an extra $750 for the good clean spare bonnet and bootlid.

It was too cheap to pass up.

Edited by hawk, 30 May 2023 - 06:25 AM.

[LXCHEV]

Sounds like a great buy, good stuff mate.

[hawk]

Well Back to the LH.

Dads put a patch in the battery tray. It's got a fair bit of pitting although overall it's still solid so figured it's better to keep the original.



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Cut up the spare lower B pillar section and sadly it's a bit worse than we were expecting.

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Made up a new section, profile matches pretty well. It will still need trimming and adjustment before fitting.


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[hawk]

All patched up with a little clean up still required.

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[claysummers]

Nice work hawk. You’re putting primer between those layers of sheet aren’t you?


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[hawk]

yes, rust converter then weld through primer.

[claysummers]

I’ve been using zinc based and getting bad spatter. Curious as to what you are using.


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[Heath]

After spraying the weld-through primer on the part, do you take the paint off the spots you're about to weld thoroughly?

 

I've always thought these products being called "weld-thru" is overstating their compatibility with the welding process, haha.

[claysummers]

I agree Heath. I always try and get welding surface clean. Plug weld I use drill bit. Lap weld wire brush on the drill. It's the paint sandwiched between layers. Causing top layer to blow the edge. I'll probably go back to the copper and see if it is any better.

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Edited by claysummers, 05 June 2023 - 10:20 AM.

[Peter UC]

Hawk that battery tray is supposed to have a hole in it (not that big admittedly) so if battery acid spills it’s got somewhere to go, completely irrelevant if the battery is being relocated 

[hawk]

Bit more of an update.

Finished off the drivers side B pillar repair, welded up all the pitting under the scuff plates and the scuff plate holes.Thesewere welded up because they were all way oversized, they will be redrilled at a later stage.

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repeated on the passengers side

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Next was to trim the firewall lip on both sides. We opted for a relatively light trim as the car will be flareless.


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Next up Dad decided he wanted to straighten the drivers side chassis rail a bit where the gearbox crossmember mounts. Similar to what I did on the UC.

Floor cut for access

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all finished off

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Next up was the repair that I had been dreading starting, the plenum repair. spent the last couple of nights getting the top off.

Suprisingly it came up pretty easily once the spot welds were drilled. We used a mix of the drill bits and hole cutter type remover. The drill bit didn't last too long while the hole cutters did well.

Deffinitely recommend using g a cutting fluid or paste as it helps the tools survive a lot longer.

Anyway as you can see below, there is a few repairs to complete here. We'll see how it progresses.

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[claysummers]

Nice work hawk. A mate had same issue with the scuff plate holes. He ended up putting nutserts in.

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