1886 replies to this topic

[Rockoz]

Try bringing the door striker out Heath.
Sounds wrong, but it may just work.
Unless it already does the second locking stage.
Very uncommon not being able to get a door closed unless you got major chassis problems,
And in that case it needs time on a jig.

[Heath]

yeah I learnt that the first time I adjusted a door, I do think about these things believe it or not; people may make me out to be an ignoramus but it isn't always the case.

Actually if you read back to my post, i did mention that i remove the striker completely and shut the door to see how far it goes in, so that the striker=>latch mechanism contact could not interfere/restrict its travel. I actually prefer to adjust the hinges without the striker in, then i put the striker in and make it close the appropriate amount.

Well yeah it 'should' go on a jig but it's just not going to happen. The shell is stuffed; boot gap is awful, distance between the back of the car and the start of the bootlid jam is not as long as factory; the bootlid has been 'adjusted' so that it's a little shorter than original haha. Rear door jams are stretched, rah rah rah I just worked with what I had and tried to make the individual panels as straight as I could with my limited experience with bodywork. It's not a showcar and I hate people expecting it to be *sigh*

[rodomo]

Under ^those^ circumstances, I'd just paint it then.

[Heath]

Once i'm happy with the straightness of those panels, it will be painted promptly.

Your sig cracks me up every time I see it lol

[MRLXSS]

HAHA! Why do you think i re-painted my car? Everyone thought it was better than it was... So by rebuilding it, i have at least made it a bit more respectable!

[orangeLJ]

Try having Karlie go over your car, for some reason all those little imperfections I learnt to live with on my torana seem ten times worse when she asks "why doesnt this look right" "whats that stone chip" "why does the paint look funy here" etc etc.

[GML-31]

what you are all forgetting is the panels were never 100% from the factory either

[Heath]

Just put some kick panels in my car and the interior is starting to look finished

And ordered a new Valeo clutch plate, pressure plate and throwout bearing. Don't know what my flywheel & spigot bush are like though... box should be coming out fairly shortly, need to find out a few more things first

Now... those silver pens to do all the dash trim, any advice on the good ones to buy? And where to buy them? Spotlight didn't have any lol

[wot179]

Ive never met a Holden yet with perfect gaps from the factory.

Back doors on LH 4doors are usually pretty crap.

[Rockoz]

Just put some kick panels in my car and the interior is starting to look finished

And ordered a new Valeo clutch plate, pressure plate and throwout bearing. Don't know what my flywheel & spigot bush are like though... box should be coming out fairly shortly, need to find out a few more things first

Now... those silver pens to do all the dash trim, any advice on the good ones to buy? And where to buy them? Spotlight didn't have any lol

Artline brand.
Should be available from good newsagencies, hobby stores, probably Kmart, Big W maybe Officeworks

[Heath]

Thanks rockoz, I'll have a look in the next few days

Regarding the springs, I also looked at the freshly powdercoated lowered springs I have here (bright yellow, I assume them to be Kings); larger diameter with the same distance between the end and the previous coil. The Pedders ones look similar, maybe marginally flatter. I'm satisfied, and yes I could go wrong with them, in fact I would go wrong with them, ending up with springs that allow my rear wheels to be pushed up into my rear guards and make a mess of the tyres and panelwork, and I don't even know if they are lower than standard or anything; I might need to cut them down to size anyway

Let's move on

[MRLXSS]

HAHA! Its Funny, Back in the day, Heath would have been one of the first people to jump onto the Anti-Cutting of Springs Bandwagon!

Its funny what lack of funds does to any young person! Heath, if this is the biggest risk you ever take in life mate.... You have nothing to worry about....

[ToRunYa]

Silver paint texta's

the one i found (looked everywhere for artline) is uni-posca.

[orangeLJ]

I remember how excited everyone got when I first posted up pictures of the dash and the marker. haha.

Artline was what Ive always used, works great.

[lcgtr1970]

for the paint textas i used the artline brand. they worked well but make sure you scrub any old armourall and shit off REALLY well as the artline pens seem to "clog" up easily if it gathers any dirt/dust and you need to keep cleaning the end of it off.gave me the shits. i also used a Sharpie silver paint pen and found it to work better as it didnt seem to 'clog' up as much and i thought gave a better silver look.

Edited by lcgtr1970, 02 July 2009 - 03:44 PM.

[Heath]

Rightio yesterday I pulled the car apart. Had access to a hoist for a day so I didn't f*ck around. Me and some friends did a good few hours of work.



I had shock rattle in the rear, so I pulled out the old shocks and swapped them with some spares I had... noise is gone now

Drained gearbox oil, dropped the tailshaft, starter, box peripherals and the box, (had to drop the front exhaust flange to get the bloody gearbox out lol) unbolted the pressure plate and clutch, inspected the flywheel and spigot bush. Both seemed fine, rubbed back the flywheel with emery paper (~300grit), cleaned all that and the new pressure plate which had a greasy coating to prevent surface rust forming. Greased the spigot bush lightly.

Crossmember had about a kilo of greasy dirt in it, and the box was coated in road grime, inside and out; bellhousing was disgusting, but the clutch looked dry. Didn't have a boot on the clutch fork either. I spent ages just scraping crap off and then degreasing it all.



The pivot point for the clutch fork and the sheathed section of the input shaft were both cleaned and greased for smoother operation. The throwout bearing that came in my replacement clutch however, was different to the one in my gearbox. It had a smaller diameter where it meets the clutch fork, and a flange that looked un-necessary? so I had no real choice other than to use the old throwout bearing. That was cleaned out with kero and re-greased

Clean enough:


New clutch:


When I put it back in the tailshaft unis were filled up with the grease gun, and the box was filled up with Castrol VMX 90 and Nulon G70 additive.

Productive day all-in-all, things went pretty well to plan

Edited by Heath, 06 July 2009 - 01:01 PM.

[Joshua]

what box is that?

EDIT: oh nevermind.. vk 5 speed :X thought it looked different but nope.

editedit.. no it's not it's the later 4 speed.. i was right to begin with haha

[MRLXSS]

Good work mate!!!

Productive days absolutely rock!

[Heath]

EDIT: oh nevermind.. vk 5 speed :X thought it looked different but nope.

Nope, close though. She's a four slot. MC6/Torquemaster/Philipino Box, put behind the six cylinder UC.

Edited by Heath, 06 July 2009 - 01:30 PM.

[Statler]

Oh dear!........

[Heath]

Well I conveniently received a free Redline Torker II six banger inlet manifold from Courage on my birthday (Friday) - thaks mate!

This will be mated to an Impco 300A with a two barrel Holley baseplate adapter and be my next aspiration setup. I already had a Redline Road Master V2 manifold that I was going to use, but this has nicer looking ports that suit the inlets of my new YT head better, so I'll use this one. I hate the rough cast finish so I started sanding it back and polishing it up. Looking good so far but it's pretty slow with no power tools haha. Does anyone know what these weird tab things on the underside of the runners are there for? I don't know whether to grind them off or not...