1886 replies to this topic

[76lxhatch]

Price sounds pretty good to me, the seal is only $5 worth but you can pay $40 for a pinion bearing alone. Use the cups that belong with the axle bearings if you have them.

[Heath]

That's what I wanted to do (I always pull the cups out after I pull the axles out) but Ryan's pair didn't come with any. Ahh well!

[Heath]

Hand scraper to get the thick dirt & grease off the flat areas, then degrease & scrub, rinse, angle grinder wire wheel most of it off, degrease again, sand corners & edges roughly, degrease again, sand back everything finely, wax & grease remover, prime, sand, prime, sand, topcoat, cut it back fine then wet the hell out of it and leave it

Takes a while lol

Got my rebuild kit for the centre now too.

Edited by Heath, 11 March 2010 - 02:09 PM.

[Heath]

Righto I'll admit it, it's a "lot of effort for a Banjo". But I've learnt shitloads doing this and it has been good fun. I got heaps of photos of doing all this stuff if anyone wants to know about anything let me know. I'll post a fair few up anyway though

This is the whole centre assembly as I pulled it out of the diff housing. Had course side gears, and the gearset wasn't in the best condition anyway. Bearings were noisy too. 3.36 ratio if I didn't mention it in an earlier post:

Centre out:

Pinion out:

Centre apart:

Comparison of side gears, fine and coarse spline respectively. Using fine:

New gearset in:

Ready to put it back together at home with a 'rebuild kit' from Bearing Wholesalers (bearings and pinion oil seal)

Replaced the standard crush tube with a non-compressible tube,

...toleranced to suit this housing and these bearings. This is just turned up on a lathe out of MS, takes a bit of buggering around to get it the right length though. Anyway this allows you to control your preload properly, and absorbs the forces that occur when the helical gearset (pinion & crownwheel) try and go in and out of mesh (i.e. when you come on and off power assuming that you actually have a man's gearbox, or whenever you go to reverse etc). This one has about 3 thou of preload and it means you do the nut up as tight as you can get it, which is where tools shown shortly come in handy

This photo just shows centrepunched marks on the pinion shaft and the yoke - just keeping them in the same relative position:

Tools that assist in applying proper torque to the nut: lol




Not finished yet though...

[Heath]

Yeah kinda, I dunno I might try it later on as a spare centre. If it doesn't work well it hasn't cost me anything so no big problem. Are you going to get one for yours?

[MRLXSS]

...assuming that you actually have a man's gearbox...

All you need now is a Man's motor running on some Man's fuel!

[76lxhatch]

Nice work, did you buy the fine spline side gear separately? (most people would just swap the centre)

I'm assuming you checked out the tolerances in the spider/side gears and they are all good, along with the centre pin? Seeing as you've gone to the trouble of all new bearings and solid spacer it would be a shame not to cover everything

Good setup with your 'tool', you need something like that even with collapsible spacers as they take a lot to compress

[Heath]

Yeah the tool just gets jammed in the vice and works well. If you are re-using the collapsible spacer, you wouldn't need much leverage, but I dare say that wouldn't be the best idea anyway!

I had a 3.08 Fine Spline Salsbury? Carrier that I got the gearset out of. So I had two pins and used the pin that had the largest diameter on the contacting surfaces, and the best looking gearset of the two, with the fine spline side gears. What do you mean by tolerances of those gears? Sticking a feeler gauge in the mesh or something? Because I didn't go that far.

[76lxhatch]

I guess you could go as far as measuring it in a similar manner to the crownwheel backlash but I normally just do it by feel. Make sure you have very little (but some) clearance in the spider gears, minimal slop but they shouldn't be locked together either. May need to shim the side gears if someone has been doing one wheel burnouts too often.

[TerrA LX]

Anyone know what type of paint that red oxide is that is used inside the diff?

[Heath]

Borrowed a dial gauge off a mate and put the centre together, setting up about 7thou of backlash and 2 and a bit notches of carrier preload. It's suprising just how coarse those adjustments are when you're chasing specific tolerances. Gave it a squirt after I put it back together too.

[lxsstorana]

Nice work.

[mr5000]

good to see u doing it properly ull be suprised at how well they work when done right until u put a monster infront of them but for a car like yours erfect looking forward to seeing how you go at heathcote with it

[rodomo]

Looks poofy.

[76lxhatch]

You certainly have a way with making things shiny! (Although I think I agree with rodomo when it comes to the silver)

Most Holden manuals work on 3 notches to set the preload so you should be good with that

[TerrA LX]

Are you going to lap it in?

[Heath]

What does that mean?