14 replies to this topic

[mdj]

Howdy,

 

I got impatient getting the trans out on the weekend and ended up cutting one of the lines just back from the transmission as the bolt was seized and bent a 1/2" spanner trying to loosen it.

 

Any recommendations on replacing the line ? I don't really like the idea of just putting a short flex section on and having another termination in an obscure spot - every join is a leak waiting to happen. "New" hard line would be best but I have no experience bending steel line or whether you can even find the originals anymore, or if there is good looking flex line you can use instead ?

 

Thanks

 

Matt

[davelh]

I used -6 aeroflow 250 series hose the whole way from cooler to trans.
Easy to use and seems to handle it well.

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[yel327]

You can but the bundy tube and bend & flare it.

 

In the past I have bought plastic coated LPG line (copper), easy to shape. I think it's 5/16". Just slid the original nuts over it and flared using cheap plumbing flaring equipment.

[Uncle Chop Chop]

You can get cheap pipe benders to put gentle bends in the pipe.

[arrimar]

You can buy new transmission lines for kingswood sized holdens here
http://hqresto.com/
Could try asking Andy to do you some Torana ones

[Uncle Chop Chop]

If anything, the HQ ones may be a bit long. So be a bit creative and it may work OK.

[Dr Terry]

Those repro lines look to be very well made. At $110 they're reasonable value as well.

 

AFAIK the trans cooler lines for HQ/HJ/LH are the same length.

 

Dr Terry

[arrimar]

^ everything I've received from him has been excellent.

[mdj]

Thanks for all the replies. I'm fitting an Aluminium radiator at the same time which is around 1/2" or so thicker so the lines will be slightly shorter but probably doesn't much matter in practice. I'll measure up the the lines and see if the HQ ones are a direct replacement as it looks like they may well be - you would think the gap from fan to radiator would be standardised between models.

 

Cheers

[yel327]

That distance varies depending upon the radiator fitted. However the lines have an East-West section and you just bend them there to accommodate the variation. What you are better off doing anyway is not connecting the "cold" line (exit of the radiator to the transmission) to the radiator. Instead bend it slightly to get a fitting on it (often pushing the nut back and putting hose and clamps over it works), and then route that hose through an aux cooler with the other side of the aux cooler connecting to the radiator. This way the fluid exiting the converter goes through the radiator, through an aux cooler and then back to the transmission. Keeps the fluid temperatures as low as possible and also allows the transmission to be cooled when you are stationary or moving slow in traffic.

[Dr Terry]

I checked the parts catalogues & the part numbers for these lines are the same for HJ & LH.

 

Dr Terry

[Uncle Chop Chop]

I thought there may be a difference in the tank width on the bottom of the radiator.

[dattoman]

When I worked for Motospecs we used to carry premade steel pipes in a couple of different lengths ... just bend em yourself

[yel327]

I thought there may be a difference in the tank width on the bottom of the radiator.

 

There is but the transmission pipe connections are always the same distance apart..

[mdj]

Just following up on this.

 

Getting the lines shipped from Victoria is a bit of a pain since Australia Post won't handle parcels like that so I've decided to fabricate my own.

 

Since my new radiator is aluminium and the trans casing is alloy also, I'm going to have a crack at bending up some ProFlow piping myself. Since at some point soon I'll be running a fuel line for EFI I'll change out the BSP fitting and go 3/8" so I can get away with buying one roll of pipe to cover the whole project.
 

Unless anyone has bad experiences with aluminium piping and wants to chime in before I start ordering parts :-)

 

Thanks

Matt