16 replies to this topic

[SmacT]

Hi all,

 

I am about to bleed my Mal Wood hydraulic clutch/tkx set up - anything to note from those who have done it before? Nothing worse than a soft pedal...

 

 

Attached Files

•  IMG_B0D7BB89944E-1.jpeg   547.1K   2 downloads

[Rockoz]

Make sure the bleed line is the top line.

Have the end mounted well above the centreline of the shaft.

Vacuum bleeder helps.

Make sure the adjustment of the bearing to the pressure plate is as the instructions advise.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[76lxhatch]

Just do it properly and it will be fine, clutches generally easier than brakes.

[SmacT]

Thanks legends. Assuming it is much easier than a brake system, but I have assumed before...

[claysummers]

Apart from having to split the driveline to access the bleed nipple. I’m assuming you have to?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[SmacT]

The Mal Wood set up has a bleed hose so you don't need to Clay, check out the pick up the top.

[claysummers]

Ah ha. I should have looked harder. Very nice gear.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[axistr]

Sam I have a bleed nipple on my setup, but for some reason didn't remove all the air. The bleed nipple and hose is mounted up higher than the cylinder and onto the top port. I kept pumping the pedal all the way up and down and it bleed it self after 10-15 minutes of pumping. After ten or so pumps pause for a minute to let the air back into the reservoir and help reduce aeration of the fluid. Haven't had to touch either car over the past ten years and they both work perfectly.

 

I have also found lots of trucks over the years that refuse to bleed hydraulic clutch systems. In these instances I find a 500ml plastic bottle, secure a clear 2-3mm ID hose to the bottle in a way that fluid doesn't leak. Fill the bottle with brake fluid. Connect the plastic hose to the bleed nipple, open the bleed nipple and turn the bottle upside down. Squeeze the bottle and which pushes the fluid out and reverse bleed the system. Works every time.  

[claysummers]

That is simply ingenious. I’ve had a lot of trouble bleeding hydraulics over the years, and I looked at buying a revers3 bleed kit that does as you say. The price put me off (did I ever mention what a tite arse I am?).


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Bigfella237]

~ turn the bottle upside down. Squeeze the bottle and which pushes the fluid out and reverse bleed the system. Works every time.  

Used to do the same thing except using one of those huge horse syringes you get from a vet and a length of vacuum hose, which fits nicely onto the syringe (without the needle, of course).

 

P.S. Squeeze VERY gently and keep a close eye on the reservoir as it can get real messy real quick if you're a little impatient!

[axistr]

That is simply ingenious. I’ve had a lot of trouble bleeding hydraulics over the years, and I looked at buying a revers3 bleed kit that does as you say. The price put me off (did I ever mention what a tite arse I am?).


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

Clay, when I had the workshop I used a garden sprayer bottle from Bunnings and fitted a piece of clear plastic tube on the end of the sprayer nozzle. Most sprayers and the ones I used have a shut off knob/control flow dial on the wand so you can control how fast you push the brake fluid in. This way you can do the bleed job virtually hands free. Keeping an eye on the reservoir you can see all the air come through first then the fluid then stop when the reservoir reaches the full mark, reducing spills. Job done in less than a minute.  You can pick up one from Bunnings for around $15.00   

[claysummers]

Thanks axistr. It seems we all have some issues when following the traditional method. I bought a suction pump in the end but it still only allows me to bleed in the conventional direction. I know the pumps you are talking about so might give it a try. I’m about to revisit the slave setup on the Australian M15 in my ute, seeing I have to take it out for the lifter clean up.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[claysummers]

Just having a look, $525 buys the slave and bearing assembly. Bit of an overkill for the old ute, but....

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

[Rockoz]

Many moons ago I bought a vacuum engine oil remover because I had an inboard boat.

It was under 100 bucks from memory.

Worked out easier to let the oil drain into the bottom of the boat and clean it up.

It only has a small tube to go down the dipstick tube.

Took hours to get the oil out.

But I have used it successfully since on other jobs such as bleeding brakes and clutches, and even getting fuel out of tanks.

Using a larger diameter hose appropriate to the job meant it has worked out a good purchase.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[claysummers]

I used mine recently when I overfilled my 179. Took forever to suck half a litre up the dipstick.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[SmacT]

Thanks all. What's with the answers being all over the place date-wise? I didn't realise I had missed some great answers. Anyway - great!

[Bigfella237]

~ What's with the answers being all over the place date-wise? ~

It's been like that for a couple'a weeks...

 

See this thread: https://www.gmh-tora...-up-on-threads/