58 replies to this topic

[claysummers]

Here I go again. When will I learn? Recent discussion and the fact I have to split the driveline in the ute due to a recent cam failure inspired me to lash out on one of these, thinking it would bolt up to my stock master cyinder.

No, it needs to be a 5/8" master, not the standard 1" item. Ok, no big deal, I thought. I'll just get Power Brakes SA to sleeve one down in stainless. Except they want more than $500 to do that. The other brake place just said too hard, due to piston selection.

Mal suggested using an XW part. Some modifications to firewall mount and rod length required. They are available new for $105, quality unknown.

I've yet to ring Mal back and ask if they supply one, but it wouldn't be off the shelf. What are peoples thoughts, please?

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Edited by claysummers, 16 October 2023 - 09:50 AM.

[yel327]

Put a Trimatic in.....

 

Dr Terry will have a solution I imagine. Wait until he sees the thread.

[claysummers]

Trimatic requires a bigger tunnel Byron. Nah, I love the manual in this car and already invested too much in it. Trimatic going in the panel van, one day......

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[yel327]

I meant Dr Terry might have an idea about the clutch master.

 

I thought if an M15 3spd fitted a 6cyl Powerglide or Trimatic would fit? Like it does in HD-HR, HK-HG etc.

[claysummers]

Yes I know what you meant Byron. HR on they fit. EK to EH auto floorpan fit. Manual body FE to EH fits all synchro with some massaging and bracing for rear mount but no structural cutting/rework. Pretty tight. Auto in these requires cutting the no1 body member where the inner subframe legs bolt up and fabricate new tunnel and compensatory structure, or else you graft in auto front floor panel from EK or EJ EH hydramatic, as i have inmy van. FE to FB never had auto and the crash box is tiny. The front floor is like a front wheel drive car almost, which is nice and roomy. A desirable feature cobsideringtey aren't a bug car to stat with. Here endeth the lesson. Though I ight oost uo a couple of pics.

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[claysummers]

Remember that the 3 speed extension housing is much smaller than 4spd and then there is the shifter. This is where the main issue is, along with the side cover and rear of bellhousing.

Manual

Auto

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[yel327]

I knew pre EK auto that the tunnel was tiny, I thought you must already have done the EK tunnel mod to fit an M15. Trimatic has always fitted easier than Aussie 4spd, I've seen Aussie 4spds put into HK before and you have to wreck the floor member that supports the seats, whereas a Trimatic fits easily as an M15 fits there easily as well. Trimatic should fit wherever a 6cyl Powerglide fits, they even use the same gearbox crossmember as HD-HK Powerglide (and M15 from HK, same crossmember).

[76lxhatch]

If it were me I'd be adapting to something like this that can be easily serviced or replaced:

https://tiltonracing...-cylinder-kits/

Wilwood no doubt do something similar if you want slightly cheaper.

 

The price has gone up though, and of course you'd need some minor modifications/adapters for the pedal and probably the firewall bolt pattern. But it should look similar on the firewall, could probably even make/adapt a reservoir that looks closer to original if that's where your tendencies lie.

[claysummers]

Hell yeah, thanks for that brew. Shall certainly consider.

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[yel327]

There is heaps of 5/8" ones around Clay, just one example:

 

5/8" Clutch Master Cylinder Fits Datsun Fairlady 311 310 520 521 1971 - 1972 | eBay

[claysummers]

8)


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[claysummers]

Just goes to show I don’t know my blue oval product. A dubious associate pointed out that the XR XT unit has a right angle reservoir and looks like an almost bolt in fit.


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Down to Car Parts Plus tomorrow with a master cylinder body, pedal box and calipers.


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[yel327]

https://www.ebay.com...:Bk9SR5aI4P_mYg

[claysummers]

That's the one. Still an arse about face ford looking thing.

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[yel327]

Might work with a HK clutch pipe. V8 one I think is what you’d need as 6cyl has slave on passenger side from memory.

[claysummers]

She’s right, I’ll soon flare one up.


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[76lxhatch]

Looks like a standard trailer brake master

[claysummers]

Due to different bolt spacing and the flange design on the Ford item, I will need to make up an adaptor bracket. If I was doing it in a build as opposed to "runner," I would drill out the firewall and pedal box and recess the snout into the cabin. Will need to adapt the rod in either case.

Outlet appears set up for a 1/4" bell flare pipe, but the holden tube nuts are different. Bugger. They looked close by eye. So many differences.

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[claysummers]

After pondering, I've decided to modify the firewall and pedal box in car, and bolt the MC straight to firewall.

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[Rockoz]

Not sure if you have the tools to do it, but I found an easy way to enlarge holes years ago.

Stack a couple of holesaws. One to fit the existing hole, the other the size of the hole you need.

Other than that it would be the rotary burr job.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[claysummers]

That’s a good idea thanks Rob. There is a bit to get through. I haven’t seen a multi blade and arbor set that would be up to the task, but worth a look. Much rather cut than grind. Have to check total thickness but I’m guessing 3.5mm.


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[Rockoz]

Would be costly.

Lots of brands around.

Most of mine are Suttons.

Bunnings should have them.

Or an Electrical Wholesaler or Plumbing supply mob.

 

They will handle the thickness without drama, just use some form of lube.

Ive done 12mm steel with some of mine.

 

The holesaws screw on to the arbor, so need one with enough thread to take 2 saws.

That might be the issue.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[claysummers]

Ordered Monday, turned up Thursday. I be been too flu #@$^%& to pull the driveline yet



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[claysummers]

Opportunity came up to get hold of a billet flywheel and competition pressure plate from a mate who needed it to dyno his full house 202. The tuner later got a universal setup so only used once. Apparently they needed a clutch with damping springs, and wouldn’t run a cast flywheel. He runs a trimatic in the car.


I have a balanced assembly currently, and only done minimal work. Now I’m wondering whether I should fit it or not. My limited understanding is that the crank, flywheel and pressure plate currently “running” are balanced as an assembly. So I am left wondering whether changing to the new bits is actually a good idea.


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[claysummers]

Getting more specific, the hole has to go out 7mm in radius and is 5.5mm thickness. My bits only go to 25mm but it’s a good start, when I’m up to it. This is the mother of all flus.


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