5 replies to this topic

[MickLee]

Hi Guys,

 

Question for the brains trust…..

 

Am putting an LS2 and TR6060 into an LH…

 

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At this stage have the Rod Shop conversion kit and a MALEX Retro shifter kit & drive shaft adapter..

 

She has all bolted together nicely, however am concerned about the clearance between the back of the box & driveshaft adapter and the cross member.

 

I don’t really want to cut and shut the cross member…

 

Has anyone (imagine there has been) done one similar? 

• Can the box be lowered by modifying or changing the Trans crossmember?

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• Have also seen a bit on the MALWOOD shifters, do these give you more clearance and thus avoid having to cut and shut anything?

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• Other thing is what have people done when changing sumps, to block off the “gap” left from where the bellhousing would have bolted directly up to the original sump?

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Will need to pull my finger out and get a build thread going….

Cheers

Mick

 

 

[Rockoz]

Ive got a similar problem with my LS1 into Toyota Dyna.

Havent got to the job yet, but I will likely just cover the gaps with some 1.1mm zincanneal sheet I have got with appropriate fasteners.

Thought about using some polycarbonate sheet as well.

Will make the decision when I get closer to engineering time.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[rexy]

Nothing…

 

I haven’t run into problems with road debris interfering with the clutch.

[yel327]

You might have to modify that front-rear floor joint section, as you are going to have to Engineer the car anyway. Talk to your Engineer about acceptable options. You never know, they may allow you to unpick and remove the front floor section in the tunnel hump (the under piece) leaving only the rear floor bit (with the milky plastic plug in it), then use something like folded 5mm plate welded between the seat bolt mounts to the floor (between those U-shaped folds either side), tucking it up neatly and attached to the rear floor top bit. If folded/fabricated carefully that should give you another 20mm of clearance. 

[Shiney005]

Rather than use the adaptor, can the tailshaft be modified instead?

[Bigfella237]

Rather than use the adaptor, can the tailshaft be modified instead?

It would've had one of those triangular flanges on it originally (for solid mounting the driveshaft). Obviously, with IRS the diff centre doesn't move (too much, anyway) so you need the adapter to convert to uni-joints for a live axle setup. I guess you might be able to have some hybrid two-piece driveshaft where the front half was solid mounted back to a centre bearing?