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Upper control arm and shims


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#1 kimbo

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Posted 18 April 2024 - 12:29 AM

Wasn't paying much attention when stripping down the K Frame but has since dawned on me that there were steel bushes being used as shims. There were also standard shims. Seems like alot of shimming lol Any ideas ?Attached File  20240415_184802.jpg   79.41K   7 downloadsAttached File  20240417_221028.jpg   108.23K   6 downloads

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#2 RallyRed

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Posted 18 April 2024 - 07:14 AM

Quiet common with track/race cars, to achieve say, -5 degrees camber. The machined spacers set the bulk of it, and the shims just the fine tuning.

 

Not sure about the fence bolts? ( square section under the head)...not sure they are factory.



#3 kimbo

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Posted 18 April 2024 - 09:21 AM

Quiet common with track/race cars, to achieve say, -5 degrees camber. The machined spacers set the bulk of it, and the shims just the fine tuning.

Not sure about the fence bolts? ( square section under the head)...not sure they are factory.

Yeah ignore those other 2 bolts. They are off the steering rack.

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#4 Bigfella237

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Posted 18 April 2024 - 11:49 AM

Yeah, could be a number of reasons behind it...

 

It's probably just to achieve more negative camber, but it may be because someone has fitted non-standard components, or even worse, it may be trying to correct something that's bent!

 

Either way, it's very important, safety-wise, that there's still enough thread for the nut to fully engage (and therefore 'lock' onto) the bolt.



#5 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 18 April 2024 - 12:37 PM

The LX RTS had a combination of spacers and shims.

 

The lower mounting point of the UCA on the LX RTS increased the amount of shims required so spacers were added. From memory the spacers were not a thick as the ones pictured above.

 

Using spacers or washers to reduce the shim stack is a good idea, however once the k-frame is fitted to the car the only way to remove the spacers is to knock out the bolts which is difficult if a V8 is fitted.

 

I replaced the pressed in factory bolts with ARP 12-Point Head Chromoly black oxide bolts. There is just enough room in the k-frame to get a socket onto the 12-Point heads in the k-frame. This make is easy to remove or add spacers when the k-frame and motor are installed.

 

If you decide to user the ARP bolts double check the size and length. From memory I used the bolt above and ARP 12-Point Nuts.






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