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MHDT L34 Bond/Harvey 76 Car

Started by _rorym_ , Sep 30 2006 04:28 PM

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#901 _TJ253_

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Posted 07 July 2007 - 06:36 PM

Looking heaps good Rory the paint work on that car looks fantastic . cant wait to see it with the challengers on and the Motor in keep up the good work

#902 _big_als_army_

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 12:56 AM

Yeah, its the go if you are set up to do it that way. I couldn't even do a chin up off any of my garage roof members so I have to do it the old fashioned way. A mate got the front end out of a V8 LJ, motor and box, etc. off and the the front end back in in 50 minutes! This was in his workshop with the use of a hoist but still, its pretty quick.

#903 LS1LX

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 09:55 AM

Thats look tough as mails mate.

Should look HOT on the track. Plates should now read "HOT134"

#904 _rorym_

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 12:46 PM

A new bottom! Sexy!
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#905 _big_als_army_

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 02:00 PM

Yeah, thats the goods!

#906 TerrA LX

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 02:36 PM

Awesome, now it looks like a race car you just have to make it sound like a race car. :spoton:

#907 _rorym_

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 05:25 PM

Bruuummm! Brummmm! Hows that?..Lol! No engine in yet Adam. Tomorrow the steering column gets put in and hooked up.Will pull the seats for recover.
R

#908 _JBird_

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 06:01 PM

Looks awesome Rory! What brake pads you running on the rear and did you get the handbrake to work?

#909 _Skapinad_

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 06:01 PM

sorry mate your threads way too loooooooooooong to read the whole lot... when i saw the "out with the old" photo, assumed the new was going straight in.... make sure you tube once its running....... cant wait to hear it....

#910 A9X

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 07:20 PM

Top work Rory.

:spoton:

Welby

#911 _rorym_

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 07:22 PM

Looks awesome Rory! What brake pads you running on the rear and did you get the handbrake to work?

QFM Nissan race pads..handbrake will be fine..UC handle.
R

#912 _rorym_

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 12:04 PM

For those that have never seen...the 2 steel knuckle modification.
R
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#913 _big_als_army_

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 12:44 PM

Do the LH/LX's just have one steel one at the top and a flexible one near the bottom as standard? Its a bit different to doing it to an LC/LJ, you've had to modify that engine mount a bit.

#914 _HatchmanSS76_

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 12:55 PM

Tiz looking :spoton:

#915 _rorym_

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 01:05 PM

Do the LH/LX's just have one steel one at the top and a flexible one near the bottom as standard? Its a bit different to doing it to an LC/LJ, you've had to modify that engine mount a bit.

Actually gives more clearence Alex..the steel one is half the width of the round fabric one.
R

#916 _big_als_army_

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 03:50 PM

Mine is done a bit differently on the LJ. The column has been moved to the side a bit so I didn't need as much clearance as you have but the engine mount section didn;t need any modifications. There was enough room to use a custom top steel knuckle incorporating a flexible coupling and just the standard steel one for the bottom.

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#917 Heath

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 05:22 PM

Rory is that because you're putting a different set of extractors in (or want clearance for some other reason), or does that somehow improve the steering by reducing the acuteness of each universal join?

Looks good

#918 _rorym_

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 07:32 PM

Mine is done a bit differently on the LJ. The column has been moved to the side a bit so I didn't need as much clearance as you have but the engine mount section didn;t need any modifications. There was enough room to use a custom top steel knuckle incorporating a flexible coupling and just the standard steel one for the bottom.

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Alex..On the LC I cut the rack about 4" up...so down about 4' from your bottom knuckle...just for more clearence.

Heath, It takes away the vagueness of the cloth uni joint...gives more feedback through the steering wheel but in a race car thats what you want not comfy steering for the road.
R

#919 Heath

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 09:40 PM

Thanks for the info; that's exactly what I wanted to know.

#920 _big_als_army_

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 10:20 PM

Rory,

If you cut the one on your LC that far down, you must have had to modify the crossmember to clear it, like you do with the CRS steering location kit. My lower knuckle could only go down about another 10-15mm max before having clearance dramas on the top edge of the radius arm and the back of the crossmember.

Edited by big_als_army, 09 July 2007 - 10:29 PM.

#921 _rorym_

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 10:37 PM

Nope..no worries...I will see if I still have the pics.
R

#922 _rorym_

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Posted 10 July 2007 - 07:45 PM

Front Bedford springs and Bilstein shocks are in..Jesus are those Billies HARD or what?? :huh:
R

#923 _rorym_

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Posted 10 July 2007 - 09:08 PM

Alex..notice the knuckle in relation to the bottom bracket in the corner to get an idea of how low I got it. Also your engine mount bracket is different to mine.
R
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Edited by rorym, 10 July 2007 - 09:10 PM.

#924 _big_als_army_

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Posted 11 July 2007 - 01:47 AM

Yeah, its a bit hard to make out exactly with that rat trap crap in the way, what a mess! You can see why you'd go to a cable or hydraulic set-up if you weren't going for an authentic mock up. My upper uni with the flexible coupling incorporated must keep the angle up a little compared to yours. You didn't drill the hole for the extra bolt in the crossmember to radius arm bracket, is that welded to the radius arm?

#925 _rorym_

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Posted 11 July 2007 - 12:57 PM

Yeah I bolted them in to hold them then we welded them in with the cross member plate as well. Basically if you reversed your shafts and put the short one at the bottom thats what I ended up doing.
R
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